please answer my question

[turbo buicks]

tonite i put on a adjustable stock type WG and its set to 15 psi. my car has run 15 psi on the stock WG just fine no audible knock(no scanmaster) and when i put on the Y actautor i blocked off the restricted side and so now theres free flow between the compressor boost signal and the WG. at ~10 psi now w/the windows up i can hear knocking and going 20 mph down a streeet i gave it 3/4 gas and it backfired throught the intake it sounded like really loud and i thought i blew a piston or something BAD. the car seems to drive just fine tho. it is pretty cool out tonite so my intake temps are low and my FP line on (yes i kow i forgot to take the line off) is about 38 psi and it increases as it should per lb. of boost. if my plug wires are bad would this cause a rich situation and thus the backfire or is it my injectors which im told are bad that are leaning out. ive heard of a lean pop through the intake. what it is and how does it happen???

 

[Chuck Leeper]

KNOK??

WHY would you block off the hose????
Sounds like the adj actuator is FUBAR or the W/G itself is stuck shut..
What's the boost at at 20mph???
Don't know who told you the inj's "were bad" and were leaning out... They usually leak and cause idle and hot start problems...
What does the scan tool tell you?? [DON'T say U dn't have 1!!!]
How do you know it's "set" at 15#?? Do you have a boost ga??
Need more info to go much further.
Pull the actuator off the gate arm and see if the arm is free and moves smoothly...

 

[turbo buicks]

when putting on an adjustable actuator i thought you connected the line from the compressor housing to the line from the WG and bypass the line the the WG solenoid altogether. i couldnt find a straight connector so my friend got a screw and screwed it into the restricted side of the Y actuator so it is like a regular free fowing open tube now. when he put the screw in it cracked the Y actuator but only on the restricted side of the Y. the WG itself came off a friends car and was working when removed. we took 15 psi of compressed air and applied it to it and it shot the rod down so its working. after i got the car i took it to a mechanic referred to me by a person who has a GN and the guy checked my car and he told me the injs. were bad. sometimes it idles rough and sometimes it has a very smooth idle so im not too sure on the inj. situation. is it possible for a bad injectors to cause knock in any way??? i dont understand you telling me i have a scantool when i dont sorry i dont have $250 right now. maybe in a week or 2 i will and ill get one then. i took the car out when we were testing the WG and was running it at 15 psi (i do have a boost guage). it would overboost to like 15.5 maybe 16 psi for a split second and thenm go to 15 but make its back to 16 then back down 15 again in a second so it fluctuates. my friend tried to tell me the difference in 1 psi is negligible and my car wouldnt detonate. tell me something so i can prove to him that there is a difference. between 15 and 16 psi. do you know any kind of heat differences between the 2 boost levels. next thing i know he will be telling me i should run 20 psi b/c theres not that much difference . the arm is hard to pull out b/c its so short but like i said it pops the rod down at 15 psi when connected to the WG flapper puck. do i not have my WG actuator hoses routed properly? i was told thats how i was supposed to route them. my knock problem only began after the loud pop going down the road at 5 psi. it does that on a rare occasion and i dont know why. it used to do it alot but now its rare. i can tell you one thing the popping noise was LOUD. i had my window down and it scared me. it sounded like it came from the intake tho. what could cause a backfire throught the intake??? i also put on a GM "893" pcv vave also yesterday but i doubt that has anything to do w/it.

 

[John Larkin]

Kinda like the joke about the guy who went to the doctor and said, "Doc, it hurts when I do this" - the doctor says, "Then don't do that". Same thing here.

Ok, first question is what gas do you use?
Second, what gap are your plugs at and what brand and model plug are you using?
Third, what are you using for a boost gauge? If the rod is that hard to pull onto the wastegate arm, chances are you are getting more than 15psi boost. 15psi boost should have almost no tension on the arm, very little anyhow.
Fourth, do you have a digital multimeter to test ohms, volts, and stuff like that? Several adjustments can be done with that alone.
Fifth, what chip are you using?
Sixth, have you pulled the spark plugs and looked at the color?

Do us a favor and update your signature to what you really have done to your car. I/we like good humor but not at the expense of your car's health. Reply back with answers to these questions and I'll do my best to help. You have people in your area that could help also in case you don't know.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

POP goes the engine!!

First things first..
1. The fact that you added an adj wastegate actuator does not require the "Y" fitting be modified in any way.. the actuator works EXACTLY the same as the stocker you took off, only the rod length is adjustable...shorter and the boost level is raised.. longer and it goes down.
2.The cracked Y is a leak and should be replaced IMMEDIATELY and the hoses put back on like they are intended to be.
3.The fact the car backfired on multiple occasions, most likely was caused by a serious overboost that did not make it to the ga before you saw it and it went lean.. The results are possibly:
A. blown headgasket.
B. blown vac line.
C. I/C hoses off or split.
D. Maf hose leaking or MAF damage.
E. ruptured FPR diaphram.
The difference of 1psi in boost is of no significance in this problem. The problem was the backfire.. I believe you verboosted the engine and the above problems now exsist.
As for the injectors..
If they are plugged and don't spray, they will cause problems in idling.. doubt they are leaking so bad the engine knocks.
The idle problems are most likely from bad coils, bad module, bad wires, bad plugs, vac leaks from blown hoses, dirty IAC, Yadda, Yadda.. the list goes on and on..

As for the scan tool.. If you are going to "play the game", you can't tell the "players" without a score card!!
You CANNOT tune 1 of these cars without 1. That is a good way to find yourself in the exact situation you are in..All others can do is speculate and shoot in the dark...

Do yourself a favor and lengthen the rod about 6 turns, put a new hose set and Y on the turbo and solenoid, check ALL hoses and connections, and wait til you get a scan tool B4 you drive over the crank... cause that's where you are heading now..
Could also be internal engine problems such as loose timing chain,cam going flat, cam sensor wheel loose, etc, etc...
ALSO: find someone in your area that knows WTF is w/ these cars.
Don't know where in Fl you are, but Cal Hartline is near Orlando and he's one hell of a TR tech...

NUF SAID!

i can flow and clean your injectors if you want.. send me a private e-mail.

back under my rock

 

[John Larkin]

You sure that's all it could be Chuck?

 

[strikeeagle]

Huh?

Here's a thought - why don't you just undo whatever you did and go back to square one. Then, do one thing at a time and do it right. Like, for starters, put the wastegate hose on correctly...

 

[Chuck Leeper]

BOUT ALL? nah!!

Not all, but MAYBE a fair start!!
What can you add to the list, John??..

 

[turbo buicks]

OK, John, i use mobil 1 93 octane. ive always used this and it never knocked before. i use ACR44TS plugs gapped at .035". im using an autometer boost guage. no i dont not have a multimeter. i am on the stock chip. and i havent pulled my plugs yet. i just got home and the car is cooling still. i will update my sig after this post. thats my old combo

chuck, i was told to hook the compressor line from the turbo directly to the WG and bypass the solenoid. ill try to get another Y so i can hook it up like stock. i turned my WGH rod so its even w/the puck. when i drive it it wont over boost now so im safe, sort of. the timing chain is about 2 months new. when i came home today i had low vacuum but that turned out to be the MAP hose blown off. my FPR is working correctly b/c we checked it. all my vac. hoses are fine. i have a Tomco MAF maybe thats the problem there. i dont think the backfire was from over boosting b/c when i think back it was like a second after i gave it 3/4 throttle. it didnt even downshift and spool up that much. it just opped and lost power. its done it before but only in vac. and low low boost (sub 5 psi) never at like 15 psi tho. once i heard knock i slowed down and havent given it WOT or above 10 psi once. in in tampa so im about 2-3 hrs from cal. what would he charge to look at my car, do you know???

thanks

 

[turbo buicks]

after driving around w/the WG rod set even w/the puck arm, at WOT i get 6 psi max. arent stock WG's supposed to open @ 10 psi??? this WG came off a car and it was still working. does any parts stores sell those WG "Y" fittings and if so what size is the restrictor hole?

 

[Danster]

Originally posted by turbo buicks


chuck, i was told to hook the compressor line from the turbo directly to the WG and bypass the solenoid.

This is called "tuner style"

ill try to get another Y so i can hook it up like stock.

You can get one from John Performance along with the correct orifice for the "Y". You won't find these in your local auto parts. At least I haven't come across them.


Dannyo

 

[tc86gn]

I think the restricted side of the Y is .030. Get the right one and hook it up properly which has already been said.

 

[turbo buicks]

anyone have a spare Y fitting they could sell to me? also how do you check for a blown headgasket?

 

[RareT]

You are trying to do modifications to a car that is not yet ready to receive. For a car with the stock chip and NO SCANTOOL, you need to leave the boost at stock levels which is 13 -14 psi.

I am about an hour south of you. If you'd like some help with the plastic Y and getting your car tuned correctly with it's current setup, give me a yell.

Ed

 

[BADINBLACK6]

turbo buicks, I have an extra Y e mail me your address and I will mail it to you asap no charge