You can type here any text you want

Please help...First Turbo Buick

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
I would pick the cleaner one overall and have it tjoroughly inspected by someone that knows what they're doing. You coild be buying a ticking time bomb that will cost thousands to repair.

Peter
 
One of the things I didn't mention was they both appear to have (or you didn't state that they didn't have) flat tappet hydraulic cams. Most people on here will tell you that you are at a decent risk of "wiping a lobe or lobes" on hydraulic flat tappet setups these days. Some believe it is directly related to the oil formulations we have today vs 20 years ago. The tree huggers have forced the oil manufacturers to remove certain chemicals like zinc from engine oils that some feel really helps flat tappet cams live. This issue is not just limited to Turbo Buicks.... it is affecting everybody. With that said, understand it is between $750 - $1000 to convert a turbo Buick over to a hydraulic roller cam. IMHO, anyone that currently is having issues with wiping lobes, or is building a new engine.... ought to pony up and go hyd roller....

Also, I disagree with the above poster about buying a stocker. It is money well spent to go ahead and buy one that has most of the "extras" you would likely need anyway to run the number you want. It will save you money and time.....

As far as potential.... the car #1 has high 10 sec potential..... on a good tuneup 26psi or so boost and a good 60' time.... with good air. It should get into the 11's on low 20's on the boost with a mediocre 60' time on any given day.... if the tuneup is there. There are too many details missing on #1's 12.6 @ 109 time to accurately decide if there is an issue. My car went 12.7 @nearly 108 the first time to the 1/4 mile track with a few bolt-ons and a stock turbo on low 20's for boost.... and it had knock the entire way down the track...... It could have gone bottom 12's that day if I had a decent tune... but I hadn't had the car but about 6 months and never been to the track and didn't know what to do to tune it properly.

With all that said.... there is a learning curve with these cars, but you can do it. The easiest way is to find someone locally that knows these cars good and can help. The next best thing is reading and asking questions here.

Good luck.
Thanks! what do you think about Car #2 1/4 time wise? I am mechanically inclined and have had projects in the past.
 
I have a question no one asked . Will this be your first hot rod , do you have any mechanical inclination . These are not stock cars you are buying and will take alot of knowledge to tune and maintain . These are pretty much race cars at this point and will take money to maintain . I am working towards getting my own car to 12.5 . I bought a clean low mileage car and building what I want knowing whats in it . Take the advice you have heard over and over . Find someone that knows these cars and have them look over it for you . To take a ride and haul A$$ means nothing .
My advice take you money buy a clean car and build your own .

Great question! This will be one of many hotrods i have owned. I am mechanically inclined but have very limited knowledge on TB cars.
 
Boosted cars are kind of a different animal. With boost it only take a second to make a pile of junk. TBs have some weak areas that may need addressing; fueling, grounds, vacuum leaks, MAF, coil are typical. Even on a car that's modded with new or replacements doesn't nessassarily mean the car is up to snuff. Theres some good info here too: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/
 
Boosted cars are kind of a different animal. With boost it only take a second to make a pile of junk. TBs have some weak areas that may need addressing; fueling, grounds, vacuum leaks, MAF, coil are typical. Even on a car that's modded with new or replacements doesn't nessassarily mean the car is up to snuff. Theres some good info here too: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/
AWESOME site!!! I have been on corvette forums, pontiac firebird forums, nissan forums, etc... but NONE of them have been this interested in helping a member of the community! This alone makes me want to buy a TB! THANKS SO MUCH GUYS it means a lot...tear...LOL seriously though you guys ROCK
 
Thanks! what do you think about Car #2 1/4 time wise? I am mechanically inclined and have had projects in the past.

I'd say car #2 could also go well into the 11's with the PT51 on race fuel (I didn't see where it had an alky kit). This is a similar turbo to the much loved TE44 except a T350 exhaust wheel which is sort-of a mismatch with the compressor wheel. Car #1's turbo has more potential. If I bought car #2, I'd buy an alky kit (Razor's) first thing...and a new TT alky chip. Id work my way up to low 20's on the boost with some tuning help from someone familiar with the tuning on these cars..... and see where you are and go from there. You still should be able to go into the 12's on straight pump gas with that setup probably, but it would be much easier with alky. However..... if the tuneup and traction are off..... you might not even get into the 13's...... so get some help and learn all you can..... it makes night and day difference on these cars.

IMHO, both seem like really nice cars...... I'd like both in my stable.
 
I'd say car #2 could also go well into the 11's with the PT51 on race fuel (I didn't see where it had an alky kit). This is a similar turbo to the much loved TE44 except a T350 exhaust wheel which is sort-of a mismatch with the compressor wheel. Car #1's turbo has more potential. If I bought car #2, I'd buy an alky kit (Razor's) first thing...and a new TT alky chip. Id work my way up to low 20's on the boost with some tuning help from someone familiar with the tuning on these cars..... and see where you are and go from there. You still should be able to go into the 12's on straight pump gas with that setup probably, but it would be much easier with alky. However..... if the tuneup and traction are off..... you might not even get into the 13's...... so get some help and learn all you can..... it makes night and day difference on these cars.

IMHO, both seem like really nice cars...... I'd like both in my stable.
Rock n Roll man! Love the advice and help! CAN NOT WAIT!
 
My first Buick is the one in my sig. Its definately way more Buick than I know how to "tune" at this point. I wouldnt worry about having too much car. This forum is FULL of info. I am learning more every day and I think I have a decent understanding of them right now. When I was looking for a car I kept 2 main things on mind while looking.

1. Does the car have rust? big issue
2. Is it mechanically sound? There are going to be a few things you will probably replace once you get your car.But there are a ton of people here that have walked me through different issues.

Unless you are looking for an all original car youre going want to go faster at some point.

HTH

P.S. I like the silver car ;)

Neil
 
AWESOME site!!! I have been on corvette forums, pontiac firebird forums, nissan forums, etc... but NONE of them have been this interested in helping a member of the community! This alone makes me want to buy a TB! THANKS SO MUCH GUYS it means a lot...tear...LOL seriously though you guys ROCK
I was on the Nissan Maxima site for several years. Bunch of boneheads.
 
They both sound nice but personally I would recommend finding a car closer to stock, modify it yourself and learn as you go. If you start out with a radical combo it could make it more difficult to learn the ins and outs of these cars if you plan to maintain it yourself.
 
Personally, if the exterior is in similar shape, car 1 seeems to have more supporting mods for the $ as far as powerlogger, alky, wideband etc. Thats a good $1000+ right there.
2nd, I would not buy car #2 because of the "ghost flames" paint. Everyone has there own taste but I would imagine resell with the flames wouldnt be easy unless you are getting the car for pretty cheap.
 
I am sure that if you posted something up in the Midwest section you will get some guys more than willing to help you out if not go with to check them out.

Or just put a link to this thread with some info on it so they can see it.
 
A car with mods that is slow could be due to a failing fuel pump. Walbro had an issue a few years back and has affected a lot of our cars. You should check out both cars at WOT (wide open throttle) with a fuel pressure gauge to make sure fuel pressure rises 1 psi per pound of boost. Running lean could cause head gasket failure and detonation. Ask the owners how old the pumps are. I just had to replace one last week and supposedly it wasn't part of the recall. The people who say you should get a stock car is because they are trying to tell you that probably both of these cars have been beat on. GN's hold their value better than T-types, even if you personally like a car with color better than all black. You have described these cars pretty good but haven't mentioned miles and price so it is hard to make a recommendation for you. Also, when the car with ghost flames was painted, you should find out if the old paint was sanded to bare metal or not. Could be the difference between paint lasting 20 more years or two years. Good luck with your purchase!
 
A car with mods that is slow could be due to a failing fuel pump. Walbro had an issue a few years back and has affected a lot of our cars. You should check out both cars at WOT (wide open throttle) with a fuel pressure gauge to make sure fuel pressure rises 1 psi per pound of boost. Running lean could cause head gasket failure and detonation. Ask the owners how old the pumps are. I just had to replace one last week and supposedly it wasn't part of the recall. The people who say you should get a stock car is because they are trying to tell you that probably both of these cars have been beat on. GN's hold their value better than T-types, even if you personally like a car with color better than all black. You have described these cars pretty good but haven't mentioned miles and price so it is hard to make a recommendation for you. Also, when the car with ghost flames was painted, you should find out if the old paint was sanded to bare metal or not. Could be the difference between paint lasting 20 more years or two years. Good luck with your purchase!
THanks!

Ttype 1 is firm at $11,000

Ttype 2 is at $10,000 but said he would consider $9500
 
Both cars look great I too don't dig the Flames. Car #1 only thing that bothers me it seems the guy spent alot of money to add all the goodies Alky, Wideband, Hydroboost brakes, Powerlogger. The suspension has all the braces, but hes running it with stock control arms in the rear with a swaybar are they stock too? Car#2 He would have to come down on the price. Big question for the both of them do they have the reciepts / build sheet for the motors. People love to tell you they had the motor rebuilt even if it was 10yrs ago and all that was done was they replaced the gaskets. I wouldn't buy either one of these cars without taking someone with you to check them out that has had a turbo buick for many years. Good luck
 
Back
Top