plugs and meth.
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tim87tr
Obsession or Digression?
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
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After going thru 5 gal of VP methanolGNRick said:
, my Autolite 23s were blackish/rich and all looked good. I am running the low timing street Turbotweak chip and up to 24 psi.GNRick said:
I'd be looking at your BL numbers and make sure you dont have a vacuum leak. Or fuel is dropping out. White=BAD.
See if you can borrow a direct scan make a recording, send me a file, i'll be more than happy to look at it.
If at WOT the O2 numbers are rich(lower 800's) and you have white plugs.. more than likely your issue is an air breach.
HTH
My cruise control has a problem when I try to "accelerate" to the previous speed. It can't accelerate. It seems like it tries, (rpm's go up just a few). However, if I press on the gas pedal while pressing in the resume/accelerate button, then let off the button, then let off the gas pedal, the cruise control will maintain the new speed. Is this vacuum related? I replaced the cruise control module under the dash but nothing improved. I also replaced the black plastic ball about the size of a softball, and the vacuum line leading to the ball. Thanks Razor. I'll also check the O2's but I thought this might be an easy place to start.
Ok.. do this. After car has been sitting for a while, pop the hood and on the cruise control there will be a small vacuum hose. Pop the hose off and see if you hear a hissing sound from it depressurizing. If not.. you have rotten hoses leading from the EGR area to the cruise control diaphram.
More than likely the car has vacuum leaks.
More than likely the car has vacuum leaks.
Update
I pulled the little hose off the diaphragm. No hiss. The car was sitting over night. I replaced every vacuum hose that I could find that was not replaced last year with blue silicone hoses. This included the molded hoses coming off of the EGR valve and the hoses for the wastegate and boost solenoid. Drove the car some, pulled the hose off of the diaphragm and heard a loud hiss. However, cruise still does not want to accelerate. Per my OTC 4000, O2 volts are .86 at WOT (at a safe 18 lbs boost) and .71 - .73 at idle. Casper's knock guage shows -0- knock. My fuel pressure with line off is probably low by most standards but the car stumbled when it was higher. I think it is like 35 psi line off. I recently bought an air fuel ratio monitor from Bill Anderson on E-bay. It is the one that ATR sells for $150. However it doesn't have a long enough cable and I don't know where to connect it to. I was going to contact ATR for a new cable but some folks say it is a waste of money anyway without a wideband O2 sensor. My chip is an alky chip by Turbotweek. Is the Fuel Pressure determined by the chip until WOT? I read that but I don't know if it is true. I emailed that question to Eric but got no reply. Well, maybe I asked too many questions in this thread and introduced too many variables. Could the cruise diaphragm be bad? I have another TR that I could swap with. This might fix the vacuum leak, cruise, and white spark plug problem all at the same time. What now, Batman?
I pulled the little hose off the diaphragm. No hiss. The car was sitting over night. I replaced every vacuum hose that I could find that was not replaced last year with blue silicone hoses. This included the molded hoses coming off of the EGR valve and the hoses for the wastegate and boost solenoid. Drove the car some, pulled the hose off of the diaphragm and heard a loud hiss. However, cruise still does not want to accelerate. Per my OTC 4000, O2 volts are .86 at WOT (at a safe 18 lbs boost) and .71 - .73 at idle. Casper's knock guage shows -0- knock. My fuel pressure with line off is probably low by most standards but the car stumbled when it was higher. I think it is like 35 psi line off. I recently bought an air fuel ratio monitor from Bill Anderson on E-bay. It is the one that ATR sells for $150. However it doesn't have a long enough cable and I don't know where to connect it to. I was going to contact ATR for a new cable but some folks say it is a waste of money anyway without a wideband O2 sensor. My chip is an alky chip by Turbotweek. Is the Fuel Pressure determined by the chip until WOT? I read that but I don't know if it is true. I emailed that question to Eric but got no reply. Well, maybe I asked too many questions in this thread and introduced too many variables. Could the cruise diaphragm be bad? I have another TR that I could swap with. This might fix the vacuum leak, cruise, and white spark plug problem all at the same time. What now, Batman?
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
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on your cruise problem not holding vac , check the black check valve at the firewall (behind egr solenoid) if its ok check the thin vac line and see if it holds vac (will take some pumping since its the supply for the ventilation system diaphragms
also check the other two check valves , one to the egr and the one to the emmission canister solenoid , they should only allow ar one way and should be installed to block boost from reaching the solenoids
the fuel pressure is not controlled by chip but the fueling can be changed in erics chips by altering the injector pulse width and you can add or subtract up to 10 percent WOT fuel
the af meter taps a wire into your existing o2 sensor circuit (you can do this at the sensor or at the ecm where the harness plugs in , the other wires should be just black for ground and red for power . but it only is as acurrate as your O2 , the right tool to have picked up would be the scanmaster . and if you want to tune with O2 readingyou need a wideband like the LM1
also check the other two check valves , one to the egr and the one to the emmission canister solenoid , they should only allow ar one way and should be installed to block boost from reaching the solenoids
the fuel pressure is not controlled by chip but the fueling can be changed in erics chips by altering the injector pulse width and you can add or subtract up to 10 percent WOT fuel
the af meter taps a wire into your existing o2 sensor circuit (you can do this at the sensor or at the ecm where the harness plugs in , the other wires should be just black for ground and red for power . but it only is as acurrate as your O2 , the right tool to have picked up would be the scanmaster . and if you want to tune with O2 readingyou need a wideband like the LM1
Razor said:
I turned up the FP to 40 line off. Car seemed to run better with less throttle. Didn't stumble at all. I drove it for 200 miles, then pulled a plug. Electrode is tan and outer area is black. White piece under the electrode is very white. Sounds like I just had low fuel pressure.
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