Pop, and boost spike under acceleration

[VADER]

So I removed the coil pack and module, and the module inside is goopy and sticky. Maybe its good, maybe not. I think I will either get a new module or go full TR6. Should I ground the coil pack from he frame it stands on, to the firewall, or can I ground from one of the 3 screws underneath, or maybe both areas to be sure?

 

[VADER]

Replaced the coil pack and module with the type II. Started right up and idles fine. Stumbles now when driving. I labeled the wires prior and followed the caspers diagram so it’s a match. 123456 in order translates to 153426 and then 142536 with 25 becoming 52, if that makes sense. My thoughts are bad wires or my ground. I grounded the pack to the firewall. I did deposit the pack module before install. Any thoughts?

 

[VADER]

Forgot to mention, I did run 3 wires across the coil pack so they fit, not sure if this will cause interference.

 

[VADER]

I reran the ground to the coil pack to under the bracket where it meets the intake and ran another from the pack to the firewall so there is now 2. I also moved the wires from over the pack except one which wouldn’t reach but still have the stumbling. Wires? Still bad ground? I am stumped right now.

 

[GNONYX]

Do you have a Scanmaster and if so post numbers when engine is hot, and if you don't have a scanmaster get one very important info
Don't know your plug diagram, but here's one for a better understanding

 

[VADER]

I have a scanmaster but for some reason it’s just sitting at 2.0 when it’s running. It’s been doing that lately. When I shut car, it shows the numbers with key on. It’s weird that the car seems to stumble when I give it gas, idle falls to 5-600 rpm, and will stay that way, give it gas again, and it revs up to about 2K and then settles down. It’s very stumbly now, not sure the cause of this.

 

[GNONYX]

Have you replace the spark plug wires?
From the description you gave before maybe it's time to replace them and go from there

 

[scgnx2]

I have a scanmaster but for some reason it’s just sitting at 2.0 when it’s running. It’s been doing that lately. When I shut car, it shows the numbers with key on. It’s weird that the car seems to stumble when I give it gas, idle falls to 5-600 rpm, and will stay that way, give it gas again, and it revs up to about 2K and then settles down. It’s very stumbly now, not sure the cause of this.

What MAF are you using ?
You have to wonder why your scanmaster is not functioning too. I would troubleshoot that problem first. You really need to be able to read the scanmaster values to diagnose most issues...

 

[VADER]

No maf, using a max effort. It sure does sound like a maf issue. I agree about the wires and will check on the scanmaster.

 

[GNONYX]

Don't know what is JT chip you're using, but according to your 1st post and your sig. it sounds like you might need to go to basic with replacing that unknown chip, and possibly dirty fuel injectors, go to TurboTweak and get the chip and 60# injectors, or just get his chip and have your injectors professionally clean.

https://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1015

Also replace the unknown MAF and replace that also
Once you replace all, and fix the scanmaster is when you warm the engine and display the scanmaster numbers for us to read and have a better understanding what is going on with your engine

 

[VADER]

My sig shows an old run using a Jim Testa chip. It’s been on the max effort which is a thumb wheel instead of a chip and no max is used at all. Was new tech in 2005, now not so much.

 

[GNONYX]

My sig shows an old run using a Jim Testa chip. It’s been on the max effort which is a thumb wheel instead of a chip and no max is used at all. Was new tech in 2005, now not so much.

It seems you have a lot of work to do as I mention on my last post, including updating your sig
Once you finish with the upgrades, you can post the scanmaster numbers