Popped head gasket, 2nd time

Running ARP bolts (not studs), did re-torque after warm up.
Also running methonal.
I don't think there is a knock ignore in the chip, not positive. He did say the car has been running very smooth, not sure if he has been "listening" for knock though.
I need to go take a look at the heads and block to check for smoothness.
I emailed him the link to this thread and maybe we can get this worked out.
Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
Head gaskets

I figured I would chime in, I had the same problem I blew 2 sets of stock type gaskets. I was so pissed the third time I used RJC BP gaskets can't blow them S0MB1TCH3S, you sure can't this time I spun a rod bearing whole motor had to come out. To make what has in my life turned into a long story short. The fuel Pump I had purchased new ($145) two years before(yes it was hot wired) was bad it would work, but erratically so sometimes it would run great other sh1tty w/ KNOCK. The point is keep the stock gasket until you figure it out! If you don't and say go to a "TOUGHER" gasket your just going to blow the motor 100% guaranteed! You can always changed them to whatever you want later.That Hg is like a fuse don't mess that up by just ignoring the symptoms. I had never done any type of heavy automotive work before I got this car It took me two weeks the first time to do all the research buy part's I needed, torque wrench etc.. now I could change HG's in four hours with a helper. Solve your problems first, also your not spraying so much Alky that your blowing HG I just don't believe that to be your problem. Get a hood mounted fuel gauge see what your FP is @ 17lbs you might be surprised @ what you find. MB:cool:
 
Just recieved a call from the owner of the car.
Took heads in to have them checked, heads where fine. But, machinist noticed the gaskets where burnt under the fire ring. Upon further questioning, he mentioned the gaskets where undersized for the bore of the cylinders, ie., .040" over cylinder with stock gaskets. He said it could be burning the fire ring thus taking out the rest of the gasket. They did blow at the thin area between cylinder and valley. He recomened using .030 over head gaskets to possibly prevent failure. Didn't think about this last time I put gaskets on, but makes sense.
What do you guys think?
 
What kind of gaskets? Same brand both times?

Also, highly recommend taking a close look at fuel pump operation, might be the problem.
 
Just recieved a call from the owner of the car.
Took heads in to have them checked, heads where fine. But, machinist noticed the gaskets where burnt under the fire ring. Upon further questioning, he mentioned the gaskets where undersized for the bore of the cylinders, ie., .040" over cylinder with stock gaskets. He said it could be burning the fire ring thus taking out the rest of the gasket. They did blow at the thin area between cylinder and valley. He recomened using .030 over head gaskets to possibly prevent failure. Didn't think about this last time I put gaskets on, but makes sense.
What do you guys think?

My motor is a .040 over block. i have had this engine for 3 yrs now and it has been run hard. i finally blowed a head gasket on it a few months ago. I have had very good luck out of the felpro 9441 pt headgaskets. they fit the .040 overbore block great.
 
Hg

Get new stock type gaskets .40 over if you can find them, have the heads o-ringed for these gaskets. This is not that expensive, and that ring will give you cushion if you lift the head, this will have you back on the road with a solid set up. People have run tens on stock type head gaskets.The real trick is installing them right, re-torque and DO NOT DETONATE IT:mad: I will almost be willing to bet you money it's a fuel system problem, but I just don't know the car. I got mine back all pretty and clean painted everything bright silver new 60lbs inj, billet fp reg,powder coated valve covers just to blow it up again because I never actually figured out why i was blowing the damn HG's just keep fixing it stronger so it took more detonation to break it first arp bolts then RJC HG's with studs your just going to hurt whatever else is weak in the motor with mine it took out a rod bearing because the detention has to go somewhere:eek: it normally will lift the head or blow the HG. Make sure that pump is good!! Get it back running as inexpensively as possible and check you fuel System completely another problem I had was a bad fuel inj harness but thats a whole other story.
.

P.S
When I finally blew the motor up my RJC Bullet Proof HG's looked perfect:D to bad my motor sounded like there monkeys under the hood playing with HAMMERS. And it took the crank out,:mad: and yeah it SUCKS
 
It's not the o2 sensor or fuel pressure because it doesn't detonate. The most likely cause is the alcohol. After some new stock gaskets or 9441PT,don't use alcohol for a while. Too much alcohol and/or not removing enough fuel from the motor as the alcohol enters the motor will blow any gasket. I blew 4 sets of gaskets before I figured this out. The factory gaskets took the most abuse before they blew. After they went I was so upset about it I just floored the accelerator pedal and was very suprised when I didn't here that distinct popping noise you tipically here when the gaskets blow. The reason was that the hose to the map sensor blew off,so the alcohol didn't come on. When I hooked the hose back up the popping returned. Thats when I realized what was blowing my head gaskets. That's the last time I used alcohol. Whith those stock blown gaskets still in place I was able to run 20 lbs. of boost with no popping as long as the alcohol was turned off. Anything above that would result in popping. When I installed the new gaskets I torqued the heads to 70 ft lbs instead of the 85 I had previously used,just to prove a point to myself. I now run 25 lbs. of boost with no problem. Eventually I would like to work with Eric on a chip for alcohol. Alcohol isn't bad in and of itself. If it were everyone who uses it would all have head gasket problems.
 
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