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Popping and misfire when under boost

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Went and got new ac delco module and checked it at the parts store. My caspers tester still looks the same with inconsistent spark between 2 and 5. They let me get a new coil and test it with it. All three of my coils and modules check the same way. I'm going to send my tester and a coil and module back to caspers for them to check.
My fuel pressure is 43 vacuum off. With vacuum back on it goes to 35 to 36. At 24 pounds of boost it might shoot up to 58 but then stays around 54. Air fuel at about 11 to 11.2. O2's In the low 800's down to 789 in third. I've set the translator back to 2% lean and the alky is down all the way.
 
Popping under load

Mike,For what it is worth,I had a similar problem several years ago and swapped every conceivable part and was pulling my hair out. The engine was used and ran perfect until after 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. We took the valve covers off looking for a bent valve,etc., and luckily noticed that one rocker arm was hardly moving.The intake lob was worn badly and couldn't supply enough fuel except at low throttle. We had no lifter or rocker noise so we didn't suspect a cam or valve. I replaced the cam/lifters,no more popping. I don't known the condition of your engine, but it is cheap and a fairly easy job. My motto is "Do not Assume anything. Good Luck.
 
Do you even know what a Buick is? Read your email BenPutnam and I told you how to fix your problems!
 
Motor has about 10,000 miles. But put on new headgaskests, bearings,ect. after alky pump failed at 5000 miles. Then 2500 miles later lost another headgasket and did bearings again. So I'm at about 3000 miles on this fresh setup. I did notice some oily film in radiator and reservoir. I also had to add my second quart of oil in less than 2000 miles. I think this last quart only lasted 500 miles if that. It's not dripping or smoking, unless on wot and I'm not seeing it. Ticking (that comes and goes) seems more prevalent after I added the quart of oil.
 
One time in 100 degree heat with the alky chip set up and it ran terrible. There could have been other issues back then. My last run with my signature setup was at pinks all out back in March. I went 11.6 without pushing it too hard. On my next pass it back fired at the end of track and blew my up pipe off. That could have been the start of my 169 walbro failure and resulting problems.
 
One time in 100 degree heat with the alky chip set up and it ran terrible. There could have been other issues back then. My last run with my signature setup was at pinks all out back in March. I went 11.6 without pushing it too hard. On my next pass it back fired at the end of track and blew my up pipe off. That could have been the start of my 169 walbro failure and resulting problems.

I blew off my up pipe due to a bad TPS sensor once. Check your data for all sensors when driving under load. TPS checked out fine with key on and engine off. My scan tool showed TPS voltage dropping when I was accelerating! I think it dropped to 0. A few days ago I had a sputter at 3/4 throttle. Turns out my O2 sensor was showing 0 volts at some frames, then went right back up (behaved just like the bad TPS sensor). A new O2 sensor fixed the problem. No more sputter. Hey TurboDave-you'd be glad to know I am now using Directscan....no more OTC4000 that you love so much!
 
I adjusted my cam sensor per the directions with no luck. I bought a crank sensor today and will try to have someone install it tomorrow. I've noticed my O2 sensor readings on my Scan Master are low at WOT, I've seen 680, 740, 780. I hate testing it at WOT because I'm afraid I'm going to blow a head off plus the concrete is so cold now it won't hook. My fuel pressure is ~50 at idle and ~75 at WOT, I'm making ~21 lbs of boost. I don't understand why it runs fine in batch mode, this has got to be the key.
 
crank sensor

I adjusted my cam sensor per the directions with no luck. I bought a crank sensor today and will try to have someone install it tomorrow. I've noticed my O2 sensor readings on my Scan Master are low at WOT, I've seen 680, 740, 780. I hate testing it at WOT because I'm afraid I'm going to blow a head off plus the concrete is so cold now it won't hook. My fuel pressure is ~50 at idle and ~75 at WOT, I'm making ~21 lbs of boost. I don't understand why it runs fine in batch mode, this has got to be the key.

Your on the right track. Did you get a AC/Delco replacement sensor? Make sure who ever sets it up checks the tolerence on all three blades. If it's not done right you could still have issues or even move the stumble/miss to a different rpm.

When testing wot , head out to the highway ;) Take it out of overdrive and put in drive. The idea is to do a wot third gear pull without downshifting into 2nd gear, you want to be rolling about 35/40mph. Lay into it (without downshifting) do a small blast 65/70 mph and pull out. Check o2's and knock. If everything looks good, do another and bring it a little further 75/80mph. So fourth and so on. I would not get too wrapped up with o2# as long as no knock is being detected. The stock narrow band o2 sensor is very crude for wot.

Rick
 
Side Note: I was going to turn the boost down for the drive home from work today and discovered my waste gate is stuck closed.
 
Went and got new ac delco module and checked it at the parts store. My caspers tester still looks the same with inconsistent spark between 2 and 5. They let me get a new coil and test it with it. All three of my coils and modules check the same way. I'm going to send my tester and a coil and module back to caspers for them to check.
My fuel pressure is 43 vacuum off. With vacuum back on it goes to 35 to 36. At 24 pounds of boost it might shoot up to 58 but then stays around 54. Air fuel at about 11 to 11.2. O2's In the low 800's down to 789 in third. I've set the translator back to 2% lean and the alky is down all the way.

I have not followed your post much, but am curious. Why in the hell would you run your translator lean, your alky all the way down, and 24 psi on pump gas when your trying to figure out why your head gaskets keep popping? man, I know your problem:eek:
 
I need to call around and see if I can order replacement parts for this turbo. The shaft going into the waste gate hangs up and needs to be replaced.

That's why I now run a BOV. I know a lot of turbo buick owners disagree saying that an auto doesn't need one, but everytime you let off the gas that fluttering noise is your turbo being hammered. You now have the end result. BTDT
 
I have not followed your post much, but am curious. Why in the hell would you run your translator lean, your alky all the way down, and 24 psi on pump gas when your trying to figure out why your head gaskets keep popping? man, I know your problem:eek:

I was just trying a couple short blasts since it felt rich. I have a scanmaster, air/fuel guage, etg,. These were reading a little rich so I turned them down a hair. I was not getting any knock. I'm wondering if my alky is even adjusting or just shooting full blast. I'm getting ready to send it in since my bottle is cracked and the low alky light stays on. BTW my headgaskets blew at the top end of the track when my alky pump went out. The second time was another part failure. I've been running consistent 11.2 to 11.6 with no knock.
 
That's why I now run a BOV. I know a lot of turbo buick owners disagree saying that an auto doesn't need one, but everytime you let off the gas that fluttering noise is your turbo being hammered. You now have the end result. BTDT

Where did you get your blow off valve? I've been thinking about getting one myself.
 
Installed a HKS Super SQV in black between the IC and TB. It is LOUD when it releases, not like a ricer, more like a sonic gernade. The outlet can be piped into the inlet to quite it down.
HKS USA Super SQV

Did you see the price of their intercoolers? Makes ours look cheap. I wonder why their's cost so much?
 
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