Popping and misfire when under boost

[Mike70gtx]

Since i already have alot of coils and modules on hand, send your parts to and from and i will check them for free. My zip code is 66212 if you want to check shipping charges online.
/QUOTE]
Thanks for the offer Bryan, I might do that

 

[bmackinnon]

I see you dont have a air filter, but i cant really see the coil pack.

No wires were cut? Ive never put the series II on my car or any car, really had no problems with maf sensors or modules. Plugs right in and runs? Maybe i missed a few years... wouldnt suprise me one bit if i was wrong.

BW

No cutting req'd.... factory (86/87) Gen1 ign. module harness/connector plugs right into the Gen2/series2 module. There is an adapter plate that you use that allows the gen2 module to bolt onto the gen1 mounting bracket. Here's the casper's link (disregard 84/85 conversion pieces)...., as well as the gnttype.org info. Note that the part numbers match between gnttype and caspers... :wink:

http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/ccciwiringinfo.pdf
Type II Ignition Swap

 

[GNAT87]

Mike, Ive been having the same problem with my car, loud popping under boost. We got it back together about a month ago. It is the stock module and coil from 87 so it wouldnt surprise me but after I get into boost the gel stuff in the module actually starts to melt or seep out of it. Hope you get your problem worked out. Im going to get my parts on the way tomorrow. PM me your number if you want to cruise sometime and Ill come meet you since they closed RRR down last week.

 

[Mike70gtx]

It was sad to hear about RedRiver shutting down. I was trying to get it running good enough to get a couple of runs in before the year was over. Prescott is about an hour from hear. It's 1/8th mile. I'll let you know if there is anything to do in this area. Let me know if something's going on in Shreveport and I'll drive down.
I'm sure mine is electrical. It was the last two times. I'm going to put the fuel pressure gauge back on to make sure the fuels good.

 

[kenny]

Did you just recently install the Translator?

 

[GSX-PKV]

I once had a similar issue and it turned out to be a simple thing... the vacuum hose on my fuel pressure regulator looked like it was on... but it was loose. I secured it with a wire tie and never have had the problem since.

 

[v8eetrr]

Type-II Conversion

FWIW, you can also get the adapter plate from the donor car if you hit the boneyard for your Type-II conversion.

Also, if you plan to stockpile a few of these conversions - I clipped the (correct) module plug from a donor car's harness to help identify correct modules in the junkyard as I went from car to car.. (they are all keyed a little differently) Made it pretty easy to locate the correct "plug and play" ign. control modules for the LC2..

The type II coils are all pretty much the same from car to car... Ohm them out & match them if you can..

 

[BenPutnam]

I noticed I could hear poping static on my radio driving in this morning that changed with engine RPM, I think I have a bad wire, what is the best wire I can pick up at my local parts store?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I would try and see if a store sells black accell wires, i doubt you will find some that are the correct length.

Personally, i would just punch these part numbers in at summit and make your own wires.

QTY
1 25' black cable MSD-34013
1 90° ANGLE BOOTS(9) IN PACK MSD-8850
3 STRAIGHT BOOT MSD-3301
You will also need to purchase a wire crimping tool, i use MSD-3503

Matter of fact, i recieved all that in the mail yesterday so i had the part numbers handy

BW

 

[BenPutnam]

I replace the wires and the coilpack, I'm going to go get a cam sensor at lunch. I blocked off the vac lines going to the cruise, into the cabin, and to the hotwater valve..any other ideas?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Unplug the cam sensor and take it for a ride. Does it still miss?

 

[gn4u2c]

yes. open hood in the dark with it running have the park brake on and all wheels blocked have someone footbrake it up a few lbs and looks for arcing around the plugs you may have a hairline fracture in a new plug seen that before .
also check your battery voltage/ alt output should be 11.5 + with car off and 14 + running I had one with a alt that was only putting out 12.3-12.4 the car always started everything worked but broke up at 4,500 + new alt 14.5 volts and no more missing.

Thats the 2 I have ran into good luck.

 

[BenPutnam]

I have a volt gauge in the car and it shows 14+ but I'm starting to suspect the plugs...any recommendations for plugs?

Will the car run without the cam sensor hooked up?

 

[at7we2]

To Mike70 GTX and all the others who said something like "me too"...

I have also been trying to sort out a popping/misfire under boost for more than three years now! I have replaced ALL of the ignition and fuel system components, sensors, etc and no improvement. My good friend and turbo Buick mechanic has spent numerous hours checking wire harnesses, grounds, etc. Earlier this year he did identify one problem with the car that was also causing a misfire. Apparently, the electric fans were causing some kind of interference with the spark control feature of the Translator Plus. Everytime the fans would come on or shut off, the engine would stumble and if you had the AC on and changed the blower speed, this would also cause the engine to stumble - weird. We bypassed the spark control on the Translator Plus and that eliminated the stumbling related to the cooling fans and AC blower, but the misfire under boost is unchanged. I'll go back and re-examine why the fans are affecting the Translator *after* I get rid of the popping under boost which is a much bigger problem.

Right now, the car runs perfectly except when the misfire shows up which is only intermittantly. Just yesterday I finally ordered a Power Logger which I *HOPE* will show me what is actually happening when the misfire occurs.

I hope everyone else's popping/misfire turns out to be a simple fix, like a coilpack, but that certainly has not been the case with my car.

Rob

 

[TurboBuRick]

To Mike70 GTX and all the others who said something like "me too"...

I have also been trying to sort out a popping/misfire under boost for more than three years now! I have replaced ALL of the ignition and fuel system components, sensors, etc and no improvement. My good friend and turbo Buick mechanic has spent numerous hours checking wire harnesses, grounds, etc. Earlier this year he did identify one problem with the car that was also causing a misfire. Apparently, the electric fans were causing some kind of interference with the spark control feature of the Translator Plus. Everytime the fans would come on or shut off, the engine would stumble and if you had the AC on and changed the blower speed, this would also cause the engine to stumble - weird. We bypassed the spark control on the Translator Plus and that eliminated the stumbling related to the cooling fans and AC blower, but the misfire under boost is unchanged. I'll go back and re-examine why the fans are affecting the Translator *after* I get rid of the popping under boost which is a much bigger problem.

Right now, the car runs perfectly except when the misfire shows up which is only intermittantly. Just yesterday I finally ordered a Power Logger which I *HOPE* will show me what is actually happening when the misfire occurs.

I hope everyone else's popping/misfire turns out to be a simple fix, like a coilpack, but that certainly has not been the case with my car.

Rob

Just give it a shot. The car will run in limp mode with the cam sensor unplugged. This will help to eliminate a mechanical issue. I'm trying to help you out here.
Are you anywhere near Chicago?

 

[gn4u2c]

right it will run. trying to eliminate all electronic issues these cars have before we move on to compression, valve spring pressures, cam lobe or rocker ware bent pushrods whatever you know.

 

[BenPutnam]

Fixed!

I unplugged my cam sensor and went for a test run and the problem seems to be fixed. I stopped by my local auto parts place and a new sensor was $400. Is that correct?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I unplugged my cam sensor and went for a test run and the problem seems to be fixed. I stopped by my local auto parts place and a new sensor was $400. Is that correct?

Your sensor is out of adjustment.

If your sensor needed to be replaced, the car would be dead and not running.

Pull the cap off and check for loose pin on the wiring, or check the cam sensor ring to see if its loose.

Ebay they are 100.00, but you dont need one.

BW

 

[TurboBuRick]

I unplugged my cam sensor and went for a test run and the problem seems to be fixed. I stopped by my local auto parts place and a new sensor was $400. Is that correct?

See what happens when you listen to me. Now if Mike70gtx would give it a shot he would prolly have similar results but what do I know?

O.K. all BS aside now. You know your plugs, wires coil/module are working. You also know that there are no mechanical issue so what does that leave?
One of the sensors. I am going to say crank sensor is prolly the culprit. How old is it? Has it been hit or scraped? What is it gaped at? Have you looked at it latley?

Rick

 

[TurboBuRick]

If your sensor needed to be replaced, the car would be dead and not running.

BW

No disrespect to you Mr. K.C. but you should know better than that.