Popping and missing
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mycarsucks
Rambler
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2001
- Messages
- 322
is there anything on the car that compensates or sees boost other than the fpr? I just "intercooled" my car and couldnt get the wastegate to fit, so my turbo isnt running. Withought the turbo I get no pops. Maybe when i get it back to boost Ill be lucky and there still wont be any.
Okay...I was wrong.
Problem is still there. Took it out for its first run after the rebuild. Lil ride around my block gave poor results. Car sputters and pops heavily under load but not in idle. Cant drive her like this.....
I have:
-new AC Delco plugs, R44TS gapped at .035"
-new GM O2 sensor
-new 87 GN coil and IGN module
-new 8.8MM plug wires
-stock chip and ECM
-FP set to 32-35 PSI at idle (lvac line off)
-using 93 octane gas
Jeremy (NOCOOLER) sold me an 85 ECM with a Pitbull chip in it. Should I try that ECM/chip or try new plugs ? Could my stock chip be toast ?
Problem is still there. Took it out for its first run after the rebuild. Lil ride around my block gave poor results. Car sputters and pops heavily under load but not in idle. Cant drive her like this.....
I have:
-new AC Delco plugs, R44TS gapped at .035"
-new GM O2 sensor
-new 87 GN coil and IGN module
-new 8.8MM plug wires
-stock chip and ECM
-FP set to 32-35 PSI at idle (lvac line off)
-using 93 octane gas
Jeremy (NOCOOLER) sold me an 85 ECM with a Pitbull chip in it. Should I try that ECM/chip or try new plugs ? Could my stock chip be toast ?
mycarsucks
Rambler
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2001
- Messages
- 322
You know what I would try? I would take the wastegate rod off and use some wire to keep the wastegate open and take it for a short drive. If it doesnt pop you know its boost related. Mine doesnt pop without boost.
Thanks man...ill try anything.
Just changed all the plugs to R43TS plugs gapped at .035
#4 was fouled - black sooty coating on it. Checked compression on #4 - 130 PSI and it held for at least 5 mins...till I unscrewed the tester.
All the other plugs were ok. Looked normal.
Just changed all the plugs to R43TS plugs gapped at .035
#4 was fouled - black sooty coating on it. Checked compression on #4 - 130 PSI and it held for at least 5 mins...till I unscrewed the tester.
All the other plugs were ok. Looked normal.
Hmm how odd you guys, i seem to remember posting a thread like this and getting like ZERO REPLIES!! bah!
Anyhow.. my car runs rich, lots of carbon coming from the hole where my downpipe connects to the turbo elbow .. soot all over.. bleh, anyhow .. will a rich condition like that cause this problem, and how do i eliminate it if so? see I NEED tog et a damn fitting for my rail valve so i can connect it to the little copper tubing for my 100 psi autometer fuel gauge.. that would help A LOT..
also my turbo is leaking oil though, that or its the valve seals.. and its causing my spark plugs to get oily.. would this cause a severe enough impedence on the plugs to make it stumble like that? I cant think of a sensor problem !! ive tried two mafs, mine is good.. crank sensor, cam sensor, mucked around with that a bit and its right where it should be right now.. it starts up instantly and within the first few (30 seconds or so) seconds of running, i can punch it it will rev its heart out with no popping/stumble, even in drive i can build boost against the brake with no stumble..
lets see some replies! damnit. ! .. !
Anyhow.. my car runs rich, lots of carbon coming from the hole where my downpipe connects to the turbo elbow .. soot all over.. bleh, anyhow .. will a rich condition like that cause this problem, and how do i eliminate it if so? see I NEED tog et a damn fitting for my rail valve so i can connect it to the little copper tubing for my 100 psi autometer fuel gauge.. that would help A LOT..
also my turbo is leaking oil though, that or its the valve seals.. and its causing my spark plugs to get oily.. would this cause a severe enough impedence on the plugs to make it stumble like that? I cant think of a sensor problem !! ive tried two mafs, mine is good.. crank sensor, cam sensor, mucked around with that a bit and its right where it should be right now.. it starts up instantly and within the first few (30 seconds or so) seconds of running, i can punch it it will rev its heart out with no popping/stumble, even in drive i can build boost against the brake with no stumble..
lets see some replies! damnit. ! .. !
UWE LEHMANN
Stop Dreaming
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2001
- Messages
- 72
POPING AND MISSING
IF YOU DETERMINED THAT # 4 IS YOUR PROBLEM
REMOVE THE VALVE COVER AND CHECK YOU ROCKER ARMS AND PUSHRODS ,TURN THE ENGINE OVER AND MAKE SURE THAT EACH ONE MOVES EQUALY (REMEMBER YOUR COMPRESSION COULD BE OK EVEN IF YOU HAVE A BAD CAMSHAFT ,BROKEN VALVE SPRING ,BENT PUSHROD, BROKEN ROCKER ARM)
WITH AN OHM METER (DISCONECT BATTERY)
CHECK YOUR PLUG WIRES
CHECK YOUR INJECTER HARNESS
CHECK ALL GROUNDS
CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUGS
GET A SCEMATIC OF YOUR MAIN HARNESS
AND CHECK IT WIRE BY WIRE ,FROM COMPUTER TO EACH COMPONENT (MAKE SURE ALL THE CONNECTORS ARE SEATING IN PLUGS OF THE WIREING HARNESS)
LOOK FOR BROKEN WIRES
I REMEMBER READING SOMEWHERE THAT IF THE CAM SENSOR IS 180 DEGREES OUT THAT THE CAR WOULD START AND IDLE BUT WOULD MISSFIRE UNDER THROTTLE,CHECK IT
CHECK YOUR EGR VALVE FOR PROPER OPERATION(MAKE SURE IT OPENS AND CLOSES WITH NO LEAKS)
RECONECT BATTERY
IF YOU STILL FAUL #4 PLUG MOVE THE INJECTOR AND SEE IF THE MISS CHAGES TO WHERE YOU MOVED THAT INJECTOR
GOOD LUCK
HOPE THIS HELPS
NO ONE SAID THAT THIS WAS EASY
IF YOU DETERMINED THAT # 4 IS YOUR PROBLEM
REMOVE THE VALVE COVER AND CHECK YOU ROCKER ARMS AND PUSHRODS ,TURN THE ENGINE OVER AND MAKE SURE THAT EACH ONE MOVES EQUALY (REMEMBER YOUR COMPRESSION COULD BE OK EVEN IF YOU HAVE A BAD CAMSHAFT ,BROKEN VALVE SPRING ,BENT PUSHROD, BROKEN ROCKER ARM)
WITH AN OHM METER (DISCONECT BATTERY)
CHECK YOUR PLUG WIRES
CHECK YOUR INJECTER HARNESS
CHECK ALL GROUNDS
CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUGS
GET A SCEMATIC OF YOUR MAIN HARNESS
AND CHECK IT WIRE BY WIRE ,FROM COMPUTER TO EACH COMPONENT (MAKE SURE ALL THE CONNECTORS ARE SEATING IN PLUGS OF THE WIREING HARNESS)
LOOK FOR BROKEN WIRES
I REMEMBER READING SOMEWHERE THAT IF THE CAM SENSOR IS 180 DEGREES OUT THAT THE CAR WOULD START AND IDLE BUT WOULD MISSFIRE UNDER THROTTLE,CHECK IT
CHECK YOUR EGR VALVE FOR PROPER OPERATION(MAKE SURE IT OPENS AND CLOSES WITH NO LEAKS)
RECONECT BATTERY
IF YOU STILL FAUL #4 PLUG MOVE THE INJECTOR AND SEE IF THE MISS CHAGES TO WHERE YOU MOVED THAT INJECTOR
GOOD LUCK
HOPE THIS HELPS
NO ONE SAID THAT THIS WAS EASY
texasturbo
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2001
- Messages
- 165
problems
Anyone tried another MAF or ECM, check the socket the chip plugs into in the ECM, check for bent pins rolled up the chip carrier. verify all grounds are good at the ECM off the motor. The ECM might be bad itself. That is what happen to me.... No code or nothing, just a bad ECM. remove the TPS, if it runs to a little higher RPM before popping or dying, the ECM could be the culprit. also, verify that fuel pressure comes up going down the road with an under the windshield wiper fuel pressure gauge. Was the cam sensor moved or removed for any reason??? Is the crank sensor flopping around in the mount???? Did I say check all your system grounds!!!!!!!
Just some ideas. I would be curious to know what it was that fixed your problem when you find out. Thanks!!!!!
Anyone tried another MAF or ECM, check the socket the chip plugs into in the ECM, check for bent pins rolled up the chip carrier. verify all grounds are good at the ECM off the motor. The ECM might be bad itself. That is what happen to me.... No code or nothing, just a bad ECM. remove the TPS, if it runs to a little higher RPM before popping or dying, the ECM could be the culprit. also, verify that fuel pressure comes up going down the road with an under the windshield wiper fuel pressure gauge. Was the cam sensor moved or removed for any reason??? Is the crank sensor flopping around in the mount???? Did I say check all your system grounds!!!!!!!
Just some ideas. I would be curious to know what it was that fixed your problem when you find out. Thanks!!!!!Problem fixed !!!!
Thx all for your help.
I fixed the miss and fouled plug situation.
Bad / cheap plug wires. Those Crane Cams wires listed in my sig. are JUNK ! They were quite cheap when I got 'um and seemd like a good deal.
When I checked the resistance on them - YIKES - they were garbage. I might as well have used speaker cable on the plugs.
New OE wires on it now - not the best - but my Taylor wires aren't in yet.
The car runs much smoother now then ever. These wires are the only ones I have had on it since the rebuild - that was my first mistake.
So I guess the moral of the story here is - don't spend all kinds of money on the motor and buy $15 plug wires 'cause they seem like a good deal.
Thx all for your help.
I fixed the miss and fouled plug situation.
Bad / cheap plug wires. Those Crane Cams wires listed in my sig. are JUNK ! They were quite cheap when I got 'um and seemd like a good deal.
When I checked the resistance on them - YIKES - they were garbage. I might as well have used speaker cable on the plugs.
New OE wires on it now - not the best - but my Taylor wires aren't in yet.
The car runs much smoother now then ever. These wires are the only ones I have had on it since the rebuild - that was my first mistake.
So I guess the moral of the story here is - don't spend all kinds of money on the motor and buy $15 plug wires 'cause they seem like a good deal.
