Porting LT1/LS1 maf question?

[The Darkside]

I just got my LT1 maf today & was going to remove the screen for more flow, but also read on the LS1 board about a website called www.installuniversity.com. On that website there are "install documents" & one of them tells you how to port the LT1/LS1 maf by removing the screen & the dividers. Has anyone removed their dividers as shown in that article?
C'mon UNGN, I know you can help me on this one



The Darkside

 

[donZ]

nothing to it.
cut out the center and grind it smooth.

 

[The Darkside]

I understand how to remove the dividers, what I'm wondering is if it's a good idea to remove the dividers & are there any bad side effects if you do?



The Darkside

 

[donZ]

i don't know how it will act on a gn?
i did it to my ls1 ta, and runs great. some cars don't
some ls1 tuners, like ed wright says not to remove.
you can buy, just the ends that are already ported, and still have your stock one's
if you were near by, i would let you try one of mine, i have both.

i will be changing my gn over, very soon, i am waiting for a 3.5 maf pipe.

good luck.

 

[JToups386]

I too have done this on my LS1 MAF, for my '99 Z28. For the LS1 cars it helps a minor bit, simply by changing the air flow ratio a tad bit, and making the car run a little leaner.
I do not see a reason to do it on a GN, simply because this sensor is capable of reading double the amount of gps as the originals. It's a far superior piece, and I would not go messing with it just yet. Once you've cut it up, you can't go back, unless you buy another. Maybe someone else can offer better tech info on this, but, IMO there is no gain on our application to do this. It's already bigger and way more capable. Why jack with a perfectly good piece? Also, typically our apps do not need to run leaner, but rather, they need more fuel. Therefore, again, I would not upset the preset balance.
If you have further questions on it, you might want to check with the vendor you purchased the setup from, and see what they say.

 

[GN ERGY]

When this question was asked a couple weeks ago they said to remove the screen and blend the front edge but leave the center section in, just angle the edge and sharpen it a little. The Granitelli MAF that cuts the center out only gained 20 more cfm flow. As per article in GM HI performance mag. I just removed the screen and blended the edges as described.
Tarey D.

 

[The Darkside]

Thanks for the replies, I think I'll probably not remove the dividers.I was looking for that thread about porting it, but couldn't find it.
I too have a '99 LS1 Z28, so maybe I'll port it's maf that way.



Thanks, The Darkside

 

[GN ERGY]

Two other posts about screens and porting. June 3 2002 by GNVAIR, what is the general opinion on removal of the screens. And the other one is on Sept 18 2002 by AINT GION SLOW, ls1 maf screen, remove or leave in. Just some more info to help you decide. Tarey D.

 

[The Darkside]

Using the information you've provided, I've decided to just remove the screen & sharpen the dividers.Should I take the maf apart & to do it? Also what's the best way to remove the screen & sharpen the edges on the dividers?


The Darkside

 

[GN ERGY]

I took mine apart, just pry the screen out with a screwdriver. I used a flat file to angle the center wing flat cause if you look at it ,its a little rounded, and make sure the front edge is sharp. Then I took a half round file and filed out the groove that the screen sat in, took a little while to get it smooth then just smoothed it up with some fine sandpaper.
Tarey D.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by The Darkside
Has anyone removed their dividers as shown in that article?

If you are worried about the Screen and foil being a restriction, then the easy answer is making it a blow thru instead of a draw thru. Turbos unlike positive displacement S/C make lousy vac pumps, but excellent pressure pumps.

In order to really make enough of a change to really change anything means, you have to recalibrate the chip to get the MAF tables and scalers right.

To date, I've run the 3", 3.5" MAFs,
with, and without screens
and with and without vanes.
And run the 3.5 sensor in a 3" housing.
And then recal'd things using a WB to get right.

Right now, I'm running a blow-thru, vaneless, 3" housing, with a 3.5 sensor with screens. With a whole lot of time getting the calibration correct.

Unless, you have the equipment to do it correctly, you stand a 50/50 chance of going slower.

Polishing the divider sounds like a safe thing to do.

The fueling strategy for a LT1 or LS1 engine is quite different then how they're used in a Translator, for a GN. So while something might work for them it's not at all a guarantee that it will work for you
HTH

 

[GN ERGY]

Hey Bruce, what is a WB you spoke about to recalibrate things to get it right. So how hard is it for the average guy to mount the MAF in the pipe before the throttle body, And get it ( calibrated ) right. I saw the articles you did about mounting it in the up pipe. You are one of the I consider (EXPERTS) on this site that has tried different things, and is VERY knowledgeable about the Turbo Buicks. I've just got back into working on my GN, its been parked for the last 8 years, paint was all cracked and just looked too sh--ty to drive. Most of my mods I've done in the last 4 months, so I'm gettin back into workin on it and getting it running its best, and dependable, so I'm taking in all the info I can. Thanks for any more advice you can give us, its greatly APPRECIATED.
Tarey D.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by GN ERGY
Hey Bruce, what is a WB you spoke about to recalibrate things to get it right. So how hard is it for the average guy to mount the MAF in the pipe before the throttle body, And get it ( calibrated ) right. I saw the articles you did about mounting it in the up pipe.

WWW.DIY-WB.COM
it was designed for the average guy to assemble. $20 for the heater, $40 for the Bruce Roe display, and $160 for the sensor and you can have your own Wide Band O2 sensor.

I bought a used uppipe for $20 and a couple hoses from PT+E, was about $50 in parts, a couple more clamps, and 10 mins with a hacsaw.

If you leave the sensor alone you should be pretty close to go.
If your serious about tuning you'll want to get into prom burning anyway, and this is a great excuse to just do it.

thanks, but I'm no expert, i just share what I've found to work. There is lots of stuff that I've tried that was dodo......

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by GN ERGY
its a little rounded, and make sure the front edge is sharp.

yeck. Do not make the front edge of the airfoil sharp. The air travelling through the MAF isn't supersonic. Leave it round. It will flow more air. Trust me.

Use a dremel to blend in the screen ridge in and take out the mismatch between the two halves, without opening up the venturi. Then maybe polish it until it shines and put the dremel away.

When working on it, take it apart and put the electronics somewhere safe. That way you can clean all the metal shavings out of it before you put it back together.

 

[Dan Thompson]

Maybe you can take it back and get the LS1 (3.5" MAF).

I believe I have heard there is a 3.75 MAF out also.