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Power Plate problem...please help

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TulsaGN

New Member
Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
79
I just installed my stock power plate. I made 2 street test runs recording info on direct scan so I can compare after I installed. The 2 without went fine, no retard, all good, 18lbs of boost. I installed power plate and boost went to 25lbs!! and all kinds of retard and detination. I eased into throttle slowly and about 5lbs of boost the detination started in really hard. I have checked everything and have no clue. Why would the boost go from 18 to 25 with just the power plate? Please give me some help...thanks
 
re-check installation. I installed one today for the first time and my car is running much better with it. I have a better idle, better throttle response and was able to turn up the boost from15# to 17# with no knock. I am very happy with it.
 
ttt

I have checked everything......any other suggestions before I take it off???????
 
I just went out and checked everything again, I even compared the with power plate and without on the direct scan, and I don't see anything out of wack.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but there is no way to install this thing wrong, is there? The way the bolts line up, there is only one way for install........
 
yes, it can only go on one way. Id bet there is another problem here and the plate is not to blame. It can't do this to the boost..
 
What type of wastegate are you running? Did you knock the vacuum hose off it? If you have a heavy duty one try turning down the boost all the way, you should be around 17psi then.
 
yep, sounds like your wastegate hose came off. The Power plate will not cause the symptoms you are describing. Check your vac line going to the fuel press. regulator too, make sure its on good and tight.
 
I use a heavy duty stock wastegate and it's turned down as far as it will go..18lbs of boost. I checked the wastegate hoses...no problems, fuel pressure reg...no problems. I have looked over everything. The car ran great until I put the power plate on, obviously I did something on install, I may have to just take it off and see if it fixes the problem. Any other suggestions?
 
It seems you'd have to be going way lean to get that much KR. When you removed the vac block from the top of the TB, it might have cracked a connection, resulting in lower fuel pressure under boost. I know you checked but I am just throwing it out there. Not sure how a lean condition would promote excessive boost though. One other thing, when removing the upper plenum, you had to remove a bolt that secures the MAP sensor line (the longest of the metal vac lines on the passenger side with a bolt tab). Make sure you reconnected that one. That line can kink real easy and cause a vacuum leak. I whacked mine off in front of that tab and reconnected the line because it is a PIA to break that nut loose). Maybe that is throwing the ECM out of whack and not cycling the WG solenoid? I'm not sure I know what I'm talking about here :p but it's a thought.
 
I actually didn't go to that much trouble to install the power plate. I did think about those vacuum lines because they are metal and can kink, but I think they are ok. Here's how I installed it. I took the 5 screws from the doghouse. I took off the throttle linkage to the dog house and the tube from my front mount that goes into the throttle body. I then could pull up, very carefully, the doghouse enough to get the plate and the 2 gaskets in between the doghouse and the intake, and that's it, very easy, quick and clean. I was carefull and took my time. My O2's, when it got to 25lbs of boost with all that detination, were still around 830 or so. I figure that it's an extra lean condition, which might come with high boost and not enough octane, but not at 5lbs of boost....hmmmmm, anybody else?
 
well....I took off the power plate and the car runs awesome again. I guess it was an all power plate problem, but my friends and I cannot figure out what the problem would have been. I guess I'll have to call RJC tomorrow and have a discussion.
 
you DO have a stock plenum, right? (not something like a KB or PTE or Hemco?)
 
yes, stock plenum, stock throttle body, stock intake. I double checked the design and made sure it was a power plate for stock and all looks right.
 
Does this go on just one way? I take it that the design letters up? right?
 
Ported or modified stock intake?! Did you drill out the EGR hole. <= you never know.
 
I have a Champion ported intake to match my Champion Iron ported heads, so.....no EGR at all. Reading all the info on the Power Plate, I shouldn't have to worry about not having an EGR.
The whole thing just doesn't make any sense, it should run great with the plate, just don't know.
 
Put the plate back on and try again.

When you removed it, you may have inadvertently fixed the problem. So put it back on and make sure you don't make any mistakes to see what happens. This will strengthen your case if you still have problems with it when you contact RJC.
 
Tulsa Gn, I had the exact same problem with my powerplate. Not sure it is really a problem, but lets see if we can make a parts connection, here are the things I have that are alittle different which might make the boost go up on the power plate.

1) Manual boost controller

2) 1/2 inch plenum spacer.

My boost went from 17 psi to 22 psi instantly no other mods or changes. All lines were tight and no leaks.

Car idles great with esp's 280/290 stage 3 in it now. And I really do not care about the spiking, but the car is at the painters so I had only one day with the plate on it.
 
well....I agree, I will put it back on to see if it is still a problem. I am running a boost valve in my car, but it's closed all the way and the wastegate is adjusted as long as it will go, so I am at my lowest boost possible 18lbs. I don't have a plenum spacer. The car seemed to idle fine and drive normally, until I got into the boost. Like I said at just 5 lbs it started falling on it's face and the massive knocking and retard started. I'll put it back on and see what happens.
 
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