Powermaster clicking??

[im4darush]

Update..Bled the acc and power master the best way I knew how. Since it was a new unit, I pressurized it as many times as it took to get rid of the air bubbles. After that, I pumped the powermaster side of it until there were no bubbles in the plastic lines(bench bled). Pedal felt pretty good with the car off. Turned the car on and tested it out. Only problem I have is the pedal is super sensitive. Just touching the pedal will stop the car cold. Not sure if that is a problem, but none-the-less. I have to get used to it I guess. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Hyroboost

The Powermaster Ports Have No Check Valves, And It Will Gravity Bleed Easily. Fill The 2 Reservoirs For The Front And Rear Brakes With Fluid, And Loosen The Line. When They Start Dripping Close Them Off. The Remaining Air Will Bubble Up Back To The Reservoir. A Few Pumps And A Lap Around The Block Will Shake Out The Rest. Bench Bleeding Is Just A Mess, And Useless, Because The Fluid Will Drain Out Of The Cylinder Before You Can Hook Things Up. To Bleed The Motor/accum, Just Turn On The Key, And The Motor Will Pump Up The Accum. When You Apply The Brakes With The Key Off, The Accum Will Burp Back The Remaining Air. A Couple Of Those, And Driving Will Work Out The Rest. As Far As That New Unit Being Too Touchy, That Would Be A Problem In The Reaction Disc Or Pin. If The Pin Sticks, There Is No Reaction Control. If The Disc Is Left Out, There Will Be No Reaction Control, And The Application Valve, Being Pushed On By Your Foot Pedal, Will Go Full Open. Wham-o! It's On! If It Does Not Clear Up In A Couple Of Days, The Unit Must Come Apart.

 

[zeus87gn]

....Only problem I have is the pedal is super sensitive. Just touching the pedal will stop the car cold. Not sure if that is a problem, but none-the-less. I have to get used to it I guess. Thanks again for all your help.

Rush,
Gald to hear you got things going.
A presh powermaster will feel quite powerful when you are used to an old one. See my sig for bleeding procedures if you ever need them again. What you did for the acc ball is called cycling and that's really all you can do. You should be good to go, but if your brakes are really that sensitive you may need to check the adjustment on your rear drums (guessing you don't have a disk conversion). They could be too tight.

You did bleed at the wheels after you bled the PowerMaster out, right?

Z

 

[im4darush]

I did not bleed at the wheels yet. That is still to be done. I had the wife push the pedal down and hold it before threading the lines back in. That should have gotten most of the air out. Pedal feels very good.
There is one think I noticed however....I hear a hissing sound coming from where the pedal is. Sound only occurs when the pedal is not pressed. As soon as I push the pedal, it stops. Also noticed that there was some fluid leakage from under the brake fluid bowl cover. First I saw fluid around the base of the bowl and thought the base was leaking. But then I found that it was coming from under the cover. Opened it up and the rubber seal was all wet. Fluid was crystal clear though. Not sure what to make of this. Espeically the hissing. I can also feel the powermaster motor engage when my foot is on the brake. I guess that is normal since it is connected to the pedal. If I turn the key to 'ON', the motor will run about 7 seconds and shut off. If the car is running and I dont use the brakes, it will not turn on. If I am driving around, I will feel the motor engage very often.

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Hydroboost Conversion

That Hissing Sound May Be The Cruise Control Switch On The Pedal Bracket. Some Had Vacuum "breaks" To Release The Cruise. Reinstall The Hose Or Adjust The Switch, The Motor Pump Should Restart Approx Every 3-5 Brake Applications, And Then Stop.

 

[zeus87gn]

Sounds like you may have too much fluid on the high pressure side of the bowl. Should only be about half full when the acc is pumped up....completely full to marks when pumped down.