Powermaster – External Leak - Off the deep end

[Jerryl]

Hello ladies and gents;
I need some advice before going off the deep end . . . . . . . .
Already ordered all hydroboost conversion parts, but stared thinking which usually gets me in trouble. LOL

This all started with a break fluid leak. (Link provided)
The brakes still work fine, no apparent issues. Car has sat for about 4 weeks and the accumulator appears to be holding pressure as the fluid level did not rise in the DS bowl. Since replacing the accumulator a year or so ago, the brake light does not come on.
The Passenger Side bowl does empty from the small leak . . . .and is empty right now. Thought it was the line lock . . . . . but unable to confirm the location of the leak . . . . Forward a few weeks.

Traced the leak to somewhere above the line lock, power master. Appears to be dripping from the back of the motor onto the line lock. Since the system holds pressure (This implies the check valve is ok?), dash brake light does not come on, and brake performance is OK, it now appears to be an electric motor seal leak (?)

Anyone have any insight on this?

 

[TexasT]

I will tell you the hydroboost works way better than the pm ever did for me. Your car, your call but as far as I can see, it's not if the pm will fail, it is when will it fail.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Jerryl]

Lol. Yeah, hear ya.
Thanks for responding. It's just that I can get a PM with a good motor . . . Can't make up my d*** mind.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Have you sprayed off all the components with brake cleaner so you can actually see where the leak might be coming from? I have had to replace a reservoir before because of a hairline crack on the nipple where the hose attaches. I have also had to replace a reservoir before from a crack where it attaches to the master. I have also had to replace an o-ring on the brake switch. Just a few thoughts. Does the fluid puddle? Do you lose it pretty quickly?


aaron

 

[Jerryl]

No, it takes a while to empty the reservoir. I did spray, and the areas above the motor are dry. I will go back and reevaluate.

 

[BEATAV8]

sounds like the pump / motor is leaking. if so that's the single most expensive part.

spare parts......

 

[Jerryl]

Anyone successfully taken the pump apart?

 

[Pronto]

I had the pressure switch in the top leak. Replaced it and all is good.

 

[zeus87gn]

I don't think the pumps can be rebuilt
You should check the condition of your check valve in the side of the valve body
They can leak and make it look like its the motor leaking
The motor itself doesn't hold the pressure
The check valve is inside the fitting where the hard line from the motor fits into the valve body

 

[Jerryl]

I don't think the pumps can be rebuilt
You should check the condition of your check valve in the side of the valve body
They can leak and make it look like its the motor leaking
The motor itself doesn't hold the pressure
The check valve is inside the fitting where the hard line from the motor fits into the valve body

Yeah, I was thinking the shaft seal may be leaking. (?)
Thanks for the reply "Master of Power Master".

 

[zeus87gn]

Yeah, I was thinking the shaft seal may be leaking. (?)

Its possible
But it would only leak if it had some pressure on it
Try the check valve first

 

[Jerryl]

Are you referring to the check valve leaking externally?

 

[zeus87gn]

No, internally
It will leak back thru the hard line, get to the motor and the motor will appear to start leaking
I'm not saying your motor isn't bad, but the check valve should be checked first in a leaking motor situation

 

[Jerryl]

Ok. Understand, that was my next check, as soon as I figure out how to remove the check valve.

 

[zeus87gn]

Its easy
Pump the acc ball down and remove the fitting at the valve body where the hard line connects
Its in there and should come out releatively easily

 

[Jerryl]

Finally got some time to work on this.
The system held pressure after 4 months, but the PS bowl was empty; Depressurized the system and the bowl filled up.
Decided to change to hydro boost . . . . and started the installation this weekend.

Got all the parts (OEM) BUT . . . used master cylinder 10-01740 and unsure how to route the brake lines and still look decent. http://turbobuick.com/forums/thread...oboost-conversion.307690/page-13#post-3473438

Anyone have pictures of the line routing with this set-up?