Powermaster rebuild

TurboDave

RIP DAVE
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May 24, 2001
PM started acting a bit strange, but unlike most, I decided to troubleshoot and found an internal leakage issue.
Got it tore down waiting for seals.

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PM started acting a bit strange, but unlike most, I decided to troubleshoot and found an internal leakage issue.
Got it tore down waiting for seals.

11c636fe061088d811646fbac510c0e9.jpg


71f50d74c6538be6792725e7d9110355.jpg


be5d92cfdf421fa446a675f2873e5a96.jpg



Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk.[emoji252]
Very cool pictures. Send more as you put it back together
 
Did you order a Kirban seal kit or a Karps seal kit? Karps seems to be "out of stock" permanently, although they won't say that.
 
BTW, I should add, I wouldn't have had the courage to try this without the help of the new power master service manual co-written by Richard Clark and John Norton.


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I've done quite a few. re-assembly has to be very clean. Use compressed air to blow the parts clean.

Any little bits of lint or debris will make the check valve leak like crazy, especially when warmed up.

to check the check valve for a leak, just place your finger over the pump supply port in the bottom of the reservoir. if it's leaking you will feel the backflow..
 
I've done quite a few. re-assembly has to be very clean. Use compressed air to blow the parts clean.

Any little bits of lint or debris will make the check valve leak like crazy, especially when warmed up.

to check the check valve for a leak, just place your finger over the pump supply port in the bottom of the reservoir. if it's leaking you will feel the backflow..

Already did the port B test and it was fine. Port A failed indicating an internal master cylinder leak. Most of the o rings on the power piston are shot.


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OK, got everything re-assembled and the PM loosely mounted on the firewall.
I have two major concerns.

Based on the difficulty getting it off, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the push rod and pin back on the pedal.

And have no idea how to accomplish a "bench" bleed.

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OK, got everything re-assembled and the PM loosely mounted on the firewall.
I have two major concerns.

Based on the difficulty getting it off, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the push rod and pin back on the pedal.

And have no idea how to accomplish a "bench" bleed.

1c2bb784690baf546a685fa1c2262329.jpg



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If it were me I would call Richard and ask him about the bench bleed. You have more nerve then me. My car is at Richards shop for other things however I did ask him to check out the PM
 
I had to unbolt the pedal from the firewall when we did the hydroboost swap. I imagine you will too to get the powermaster hooked back up.
 
Time to bench bleed. Got the advice I needed.

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Finally got the rebuild done! First one failed for unknown reason. Second tear down and reassembly didn't reveal much so reassembled and reinstalled, now everything is perfect! Great pedal and a lot less leverage required!

I've become something of an expert at removing and re installing a PM in the car.

And thanks to a hint from my Son-In-Law John Norton I now know you don't even have to get under the dash to disconnect the push rod from the pedal !!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk.[emoji252]
 
Finally got the rebuild done! First one failed for unknown reason. Second tear down and reassembly didn't reveal much so reassembled and reinstalled, now everything is perfect! Great pedal and a lot less leverage required!

I've become something of an expert at removing and re installing a PM in the car.

And thanks to a hint from my Son-In-Law John Norton I now know you don't even have to get under the dash to disconnect the push rod from the pedal !!!!!!


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No-fair, how do you remove from the pushrod from the pedal without getting under the Dash?????
 
just give the PM a yank and the pushrod pops right out. pushrod stays with the pedal when doing it that way.
 
My method is I bit different. I loosen the two nuts holding the PM to the firewall with just a couple threads hanging on. Grabbed a couple of my flair nut wrenches because they're thicker than the average open end wrench.

Stick them between the PM and firewall as spacers.

Got in the cabin and started pulling on the brake pedal until the push rod pops out of the PM.


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Teaser for those of you that have rebuilt their own PM and struggled with the zip tie method.

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