Powermaster

[brandnu6]

Hello all. I'm still using "Power Master" set-up. Does anyone have a decent used unit for sale? Thanks very much...

 

[Anthony P]

anything you find should be refreshed so you know what you are starting with. Hydac accumulator balls can be sourced from a variety of sellers from ebay, etc.

That said, contact Richard Clark's Garage (RCG) in Burlington, NC for the refresh / rebuild or outright purchase of a spare PowerMaster unit.

Mr. Clark and John Norton put together a detailed book illustrating the service of the PM unit. If you're thinking of doing the teardown and refresh yourself, that book is a good reference to have.

 

[THensley]

I have 3 cores if you need one.
one just was removed leaking on back cover but all parts were working fine motor pressure switch and accumulator
I even have a new in box reservoir.

 

[brandnu6]

anything you find should be refreshed so you know what you are starting with. Hydac accumulator balls can be sourced from a variety of sellers from ebay, etc.

That said, contact Richard Clark's Garage (RCG) in Burlington, NC for the refresh / rebuild or outright purchase of a spare PowerMaster unit.

Mr. Clark and John Norton put together a detailed book illustrating the service of the PM unit. If you're thinking of doing the teardown and refresh yourself, that book is a good reference to have.

Hello Anthony. Thanks for your reply. I've had dealings with both Richard and Pete, they are both good people and very knowledgeable. My P.M. has had the "master" rebuilt 2 years ago. It had an "internal" leak. The problem now is the motor takes a long time to "charge" when I replace brake fluid, which I will be doing alot more after reading several posts on the board. Also, I do have the "Powermaster" booklet. And you are right, there is a lot of helpful information in it. But sometimes you just need to "talk to the Pros!" From what I have read in the booklet was that anything more than 15 seconds barring any external leaks, including in the car, then there's a good chance the motor/pump is failing. So now the question comes up, is this something that CAN be "rebuilt? I sure hope so, because there AIN'T no motors to be had, out there ANYWHERE! At least, anyone willing to part with one. I guess I could convert to a "vacuum" set-up, but that is NOT how they were built. Come to think of it, maybe that's not such a bad idea after all. I read some real horror stories of people having their brakes fail at the wrong time! Take care.

 

[brandnu6]

I have 3 cores if you need one.
one just was removed leaking on back cover but all parts were working fine motor pressure switch and accumulator
I even have a new in box reservoir.

Thanks Man. I am looking for something in "primo condition." Maybe I should have said that in my original post. Something in "ready to install" condition, without issues. Thanks again...

 

[Anthony P]

Servicing the PM pump and electric motor can be done. RCG was having the windings redone on the electric motors, as needed. With their inventory of parts on hand, if an electric motor service / rebuild shop needs an "unobtaneum" component to complete the motor service, it can be supplied. At least for now.

Two problems arise in today's world...

1. so many of the electric motor service / rebuild shops have closed in the past 25 years. Used to be at least one or two shops in each county in each state ( so to say). Today, you are lucky to find a few in each state. Service industry has changed to throw away / buy new for replacement, not to rebuild. Shop owners are retiring and closing up with the change to throw-away parts swapping as the new standard.

2. Eventually the supply of parts will diminish to a point where stuff can no longer be serviced unless someone begins to remake those "whatever" parts. considering cost of minimum production run vs buyers for those parts, many items are not reproduced.

 

[brandnu6]

Hello Anthony. I spoke to Pete the other day. The last thing he told me to do was to [after flushing dirty fluid,] turn key on, pump brakes, and see how long it takes motor to stop. So, today I did just that. Two brake applies, motor kicked on, 8 to 9 seconds later it stopped! sent him a text, said that was where it is supposed to be. That is a far cry from 29 - 30 seconds it took when I was "purging" brake fluid between the reservoir and the ball. The reason I reached out to him in the first place, was because the last time I took the car out for a blast, I pulled car into garage while it was still running to "cool it down" and heard PM motor running! That's not good! Anyway, thanks for all your feedback. You're a good man. Later... P.S. I may still consider doing "vacuum conversion." I don't want to lose my brakes. I hate surprises.

 

[BEATAV8]

You mention purging / depressurizing. Whenever I park mine I will completely depressurize it by gently pumping the pedal. That way there’s zero pressure inside the unit while it’s not in use. Doing this along with swapping in fresh fluid every spring has allowed my two units to last a very long time. They’re both sneaking up on 20 years since their last rebuild.
That being said… vacuum brakes work awesome. Especially with blazer caliper/rotor/axle upgrade.

 

[Phoneguy]

I had Pete rebuild a PM for me about 6 months ago as a spare and has not been used. If you need one quickly it is available. He has several more of mine waiting for rebuilds.

Bryan

 

[brandnu6]

I had Pete rebuild a PM for me about 6 months ago as a spare and has not been used. If you need one quickly it is available. He has several more of mine waiting for rebuilds.

Bryan

Hi Bryan. I appreciate the offer. But I got lucky today. I found a "rebuilt one." It's being shipped to me as we speak. I may still keep my options open, with regard to a "vacuum conversion." Like BEATAV8 said. we'll see. I am also going to do as he suggested, "extra maintenance." The brake fluid that was in the car was only a couple of years old with about 8 to 900 miles [car shows.] But apparently the recommended "Dot3" fluid absorbs a lot of water! It was suggested to me to maybe use Dot4 synthetic. I need to do a little research before I change things up. Besides, if I did decide to go with something different, I would need to "completely drain every bit of Dot3. Anyway, that will give me something to do. Take care, and thanks...

 

[626gn]

But apparently the recommended "Dot3" fluid absorbs a lot of water! It was suggested to me to maybe use Dot4 synthetic. I need to do a little research before I change things up. Besides, if I did decide to go with something different, I would need to "completely drain every bit of Dot3. Anyway, that will give me something to do. Take care, and thanks...

Back when I still had a powermaster I tried both DOT 3 and 4 with no discernible difference between the two. However, Richard Clark himself recommends DOT 3 in post #10 in this link https://turbobuick.com/threads/brake-fluid-amount.459324/#post-3826654

 

[Chuck Leeper]

But apparently the recommended "Dot3" fluid absorbs a lot of water!

Brake fluid water test - Suchen Videos

www.bing.com

 

[BEATAV8]

DOT3 is supposedly higher viscosity than DOT4, which should be theoretically better for the pump as it should reduce internal leakage. This is just internet banter so take it as such, I’ve never bothered to investigate.

 

[brandnu6]

Brake fluid water test - Suchen Videos

www.bing.com

Hey Chuck. That was awesome! Very simple and quick test. Thanks...

 

[brandnu6]

DOT3 is supposedly higher viscosity than DOT4, which should be theoretically better for the pump as it should reduce internal leakage. This is just internet banter so take it as such, I’ve never bothered to investigate.

You know, there is probably some truth to that, especially if Richard Clark makes that case. I'll stick with the DOT3. Some things better as they are. Without trying to reinvent the wheel. Thanks for your input, it's always welcomed.