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Problem installing cam sensor??

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josh rosaaen

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
262
Well I got everything install on the new engine. I got the pump primed and have the engine set at 25 atdc. I have the cam sensor tool and used the stickers to set it. I can't seem to get my cam sensor to sit all the way down. It's sitting about a 1/2in up like it hitting where I prime the pump. Any one got any tricks. I can get it in my old engine on the engine stand but have a lot more room to work with


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Turn your oil pump shaft to line up with the cam sensor slot below the gear then it will pop in
 
The O ring on my new cam sensor hung it up. Had to switch it to the old one and it slipped right in.
 
I like taking a marker and marking the top of the cam sensor(inside of the cup) with the direction of the oil pump slot on the other side of the cam sensor. Turn it counter clock wise a little and try and get it to match up to the oil pump slot down in the timing cover. When you push it into the cam gear it will turn a little clockwise and fall down. Some vasoline on the new gasket will help, occasionally you might have to tap it down in place I use a socket and tap it down. Havent had any issues with using the Chinese covers as far as the cam alignment.
 
Lube up the cam gear and o ring
Beeing new
Providing the pump and sensor line up
Install the bolt and use the bolt to start pulling the sensor down
It will slide in with no effort
 
You're kidding right?

DO NOT use the hold down bolt as a jack screw!

That's asking for a stripped thread which will be a bitch to fix with the engine in and the TC in place, OR you'll bend/break something VERY important (and most likely expensive)! If you split the boss the sensor bolt threads into you're pulling the front of the engine and looking for a new timing cover.

The cam sensor you have fits in your old engine so you know what it feels like and how much drag it should have dropping into place. If you can't replicate that on the new engine DO NOT proceed until you figure out what the hold up is!
 
Nope !!!!
Over 60 cam swaps and twice as many timing sets
Done this way. Never any issues in over 20yrs

Of course if it is hard or binding
U stop !!!

Its just to help start the new o ring seal.
 
You're kidding right?

DO NOT use the hold down bolt as a jack screw!

That's asking for a stripped thread which will be a bitch to fix with the engine in and the TC in place, OR you'll bend/break something VERY important (and most likely expensive)! If you split the boss the sensor bolt threads into you're pulling the front of the engine and looking for a new timing cover.

The cam sensor you have fits in your old engine so you know what it feels like and how much drag it should have dropping into place. If you can't replicate that on the new engine DO NOT proceed until you figure out what the hold up is!
It's one of your front covers


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It's one of your front covers

I was thinking it was but I can't get into my inbox to verify that. Sounds like the pump shaft isn't clocked right with the cam sensor tang. You can either reach down there with a screwdriver and try to guess where the slot needs to be and keep trying that a few degrees at a time, or slowly turn the motor over while pushing down with your hand.

turning the enigne over will cause you to have to find 27ATDC again so it's personal prefrence

If you do the first method, it might be easier to pop the oring off the cam sensor. That way you can find where the pump shaft needs to be then put the Oring back on for final assembly.
 
Yeah, I would pop the O-ring off and make sure the sensor goes in properly before applying "persuasion" to it and reinstall the Oring when you have the alignment down pat.
 
Well I've tried both ways and still no luck I've turned the motor over twice trying and have the I ring off. I even pulled my intercooler back off so I could turn it easier. I had to walk away I'll try again tomorrow


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Like Earl said in that last post, you need to line up the oil pump tang so it will drop in completely. Do like he said and set the timing correctly and drop the sensor in and if it doesn't drop all the way in have someone crank the ignition while you put slight downward pressure on the cap. I guarantee it will drop in if you do it that way. I have never had one not drop in that way.

It can be a bitch if you haven't done this many times in the past, but the easiest way to drop it in is to line up the oil pump in the approximate position of where the cam sensor slot will end up when bottomed out.

If you somehow still can't get it in there you can do what I call the clueless SOB method which is to take the oil pump gears out and then drop the sensor in. Then you can just rotate the oil pump shaft until it engages the cam sensor tang and you won't lose timing. If it still doesn't go in then burn the car because it hates you and will never cooperate with you now or in the future.

If you do remove the oil pump gears. which I hope you don't have to, remember to pack the gears with vaseline or in Earl's case he prefers ANAL EASE for a perfect prime to get the juices flowing through the motor.
 
Actually the ANAL-EZE is what I used on the hood bumper. My GN was a daily back when I was in porn and that stuff was always on hand (sometime literally. LOL) and it flat out works!


I have a feeling it'll go right in after walking away for a while.. You know, sorta like removing the PS valve cover.
 
Actually the ANAL-EZE is what I used on the hood bumper. My GN was a daily back when I was in porn and that stuff was always on hand (sometime literally. LOL) and it flat out works!


I have a feeling it'll go right in after walking away for a while.. You know, sorta like removing the PS valve cover.

TMI !!

I've got to hand it to you, you probably had over a thousand uses for the stuff at one time. Pun intended!
 
I mark a line on the top of the cam sensor wheel to show what way the drive is facing on the bottom gear. Makes it much easier to line it up.

Rick
 
y4agutu8.jpg



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There should be two small posts on the solenoid "P" and "S". I believe you want S.
 
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