problem with grainger valve

[wants a tr]

tried to install a grainger valve. heres what i did. set the waste gate to 15 lbs. a nice base boost setting. i disconnected the line that goes to the wg solenoid on the pass valve cover and i connected that hose to my grainger valve. the boost is terribly slow to build. what is the deal? did i connect the valve wrong? someone lead down that yellow brick road.

 

[scottyb]

Slow to build? What does it peak at and what does it stabilize at? Do you get 15lbs?

 

[wants a tr]

it was getting 15lbs...jacked with it..and now i cant even get that. i get 10. i can watch the boost guage go 10 lbs. the turbo is spooling realllllllllllllyyy slow. i'm gonna mess with it some more and see if i can figure it out. thanks for the reply

 

[scottyb]

Open the valve a little more.

The more it's open, the more boost.

 

[wants a tr]

the valve is closed all the way right now. when i leave (at school) i'm gonna go turn it a few times and see what happens. trial and error..thats how u learn

thanks again

 

[scottyb]

BE CAREFUL! You don't know how sensitive it is yet. With it closed, you should get 10 lbs, so at least it looks normal so far. Crack it and take a run, then make small adjustments till you're happy. Don't go over 15 without a scan tool to monitor knock.

 

[wants a tr]

open the valve about 2 full turns. didnt do a dang'd thing. i think the problem isnt the valve..i think its my wastegate...i'm gonna adjust it again later and see what happens.

 

[scottyb]

Several things you can do:

1. plug the hose back into the solenoid and see if you get ~15lbs. If so, then you KNOW it's the valve or the adjustment of the valve.

2. open it more

3. go to home depot, but some poly hose (the kind used to install a water line for a fridge ice maker). zippy tie it inside the wasegate hose, and run it under the cowl, around the a-pillar and unto the car. Then use another piece of vac hose to couple the granger valve and viola! you can adjust on the fly. be careful tho cause this can make greater boost spike.

 

[scottyb]

Also, are there 2 ports on the grainger valve (never seen one in person). If so, then is there 1-way flow?, ie you got it plugged into the wrong port?

 

[wants a tr]

i'll plug it the hose back in and see what happens. and yes there is 2 ports. there is a arrow showing the flow of air thru the valve. i have got that part correct. i really appreciate your help on this . and i plan on running the hose inside. i already bought the hose and everything. i'm gonna go visit a buick friend tonite so he can help me out, but i'd like to figure it out on my own.

thanks again

 

[Donald McMullin]

I do not claim to be an expert on these valves, but I think you have it hooked up wrong.

The Grainger valve should be between the compressor and the waste gate with the "T" removed. Based on my understanding of your hookup you have the Grainger running of the "T", this will give you slow spool because the wastegate is seeing compressor pressure from the start and only once you reach your set pressure is the pressure to the wastegate being regulated.

I have run a Grainger and it give me instant spool.

Send e-mail to AZGN he has a lot more experience with these setups than I do.

Deep Enough

Donald McMullin

 

[wants a tr]

i was thinking that was probaly the problem. my friend has one on his car. i'll just wait to mess with it more over there. i do believe u are right tho donald. i was waiting for someone to tell me it was hooked up wrong. thanks guys.

 

[Donald McMullin]

Before taking my word for it check with someone with more experience, like I said check with AZGN or Nick Micale or others.

Deep Enough

Donald McMullin

 

[scottyb]

I think Donald is right, now that I think about it. I was thinking a simple bleeder setup. There is a diagram on gnttype.org that shows the routing. The one I saw required a different actuator that had 2 ports. I don't really understand how that works.

 

[wants a tr]

i had the wg turned too far out. thus the puck was wide open. we fixed that and set the valve. ran a personal best of 13.4 @ 101 with a 2.0 60 foot time..thanks for thoughts guys.

 

[49-blues]

mc mullin-could you please explain that again,starting with the "T" actually being a "Y" fitting,where does each line come from and go to for the hook up to the grainger valve-i think mine might also be hooked up wrong.

 

[KEVINS]

Originally posted by 49-blues
mc mullin-could you please explain that again,starting with the "T" actually being a "Y" fitting,where does each line come from and go to for the hook up to the grainger valve-i think mine might also be hooked up wrong.

I run a gvalve on mine. The gvalve is just a check ball. That's it. One end goes to the boost source (the turbo outlet) the other end goes to the wastegate actuator. The Y gets tossed in your favorite parts box and the boost solenoid is never used (unless for some reason you really want to).
The gvalve does not let ANY boost hit the wg until there is enough boost to push the check ball open (pushes the spring). Then when the ball opens boost pressure hit the wg and pushes the wg puck open beeding off boost.

As was figured out you do not LOOSEN the gvalve to gain more boost. You tighten it. This shortens the spring which adds more pressure to the check ball to keep the opening sealed.
The check ball should be closest to the boost source and the little tiny bleed hole should be closest to the wg.

hth's a bit..
ks

 

[wants a tr]

mine WANST hooked up wrong. it was just that i had the wg rod out to far and it wasnt letting the puck seal. i just disconnect the line from the wg solenoid and put the valve in there.

the grainger part no. for the valve i'm using is 6zc08. look and see if this is the same as whar you guys run. i might be the different setup. hope that helps

 

[b00staddict]

go here: http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm and all your questions will be answered regarding the grainger. Basically as everyone said...it goes between a boost source (the end with the ball) and the wg (the end with the elbow/vent hole)....the more you turn the screw the more boost you'll get...be careful! =]