Problem with over 16 psi of boost

[gn_steve]

Are the plugs that i have on my car the right ones?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[earlbrown]

Have you changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and installed a larger power wire for the pump yet?

In a good state of tune you should be able to run 14#s without audible knocking with pump gas and not too much trouble. If the pump is running out of steam or injectors are flakey, that can cause knocking at that power level.

 

[gn_steve]

Well i know it has an external pump bolted to the under body the injectors are 50 pounds injectors! I dont know if its a double pumper set up with one pump in the tank!???


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[earlbrown]

Sounds like you need a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield for the next phase of testing

 

[FASTV6HENRY]

Plug type is good, 50 lb injectors should be good also. The external pump is that including the pump inside the tank? I would do what earlbrown mentioned and attach a fuel pressure gauge. If you still have a pump in your tank I would do the Hotwire upgrade you may not even need the second fuel pump. Honestly the best thing you can get for your car is a Scanmaster. It will give almost all the information you need to diagnose issues.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Could well be the in-tank pump took a dive, and the prev owner added the external, to get rid of the car.
If so, then the internal is a serious restriction. You will know more, once you have the gauge in place.

 

[gn_steve]

When i install the gauge and i take a ride what should i look for?? Do i floor it? Do i drive it normal what test should i do?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[FASTV6HENRY]

No I would not floor it. I would monitor the fuel gauge while normal driving. You should not have anything below 45 pounds at idle and as you give it rpm you should see the gauge also go up. This is where a Scanmaster will help a lot becuase it will warn you if you come into knock and or a lean condition. In most Turbo Buick owners minds this is a must have tool and I agree.

 

[earlbrown]

^that's not true. If you set the pressure at 45 with the line off it should drop down when vacuum is applied to the FPR.


When you get your gauge taped to the windshield, the pressure should be base pressure + boost. For example, if your base is 45 and you're at 10PSI, the pressure should be 55. 15PSI would be 60, etc... It is NEVER acceptable for fuel pressure not to track boost exactly!

 

[FASTV6HENRY]

How is that any different from what I said. I never mentioned anything about vacuum.

 

[earlbrown]

How is that any different from what I said. I never mentioned anything about vacuum.

Because you said "You should not have anything below 45 pounds at idle ". At idle there will be vacuum on the FPR so it will be less than 45.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

What gap on the spark plugs. Out of the box is .045 and the car will pop. Close them up to .030

 

[gn_steve]

I heard 28 is that possible?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[FASTV6HENRY]

Well I set my regulator at idle and yes it is at 45lb pulling about 8-10 on vac.


Anyway GN_Steve your knock issue could very well be a lack of fuel. But my suggestion would be do one thing at a time so you see f your car responds to it. Just remember the more air you pack in the cylinders the more fuel you need. Therefore make sure your fuel system is doing its job. But post back with what your outcomes are.

 

[gn_steve]

For sure tomorow i will unplug the outside pump and start it see if it runs like that i will know if i have a single pump or a double pumper set up!


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[gn_steve]

Found the problem spark plug wire that was melted changed wire boost up to 20 psi no problem no knock!


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[FASTV6HENRY]

Good deal