Proportioning valve mod?

[6togo]

Going to be doing 4 wheel disc's and i have a new Kirbans prop valve but i am sure it is for disc/drum and i been reading about a way to modify the valves to work on disc/disc setups anyone got some input on this topic? I was thinking of adding a adjustable valve but if i can get away without one i would not complain!
Chris

 

[Bweavy]

They actually have a disc disc set up. We have them for $89.00 I can't find them on my own site though Give us a call I have them in stock.

 

[scot w.]

Going to be doing 4 wheel disc's and i have a new Kirbans prop valve but i am sure it is for disc/drum and i been reading about a way to modify the valves to work on disc/disc setups anyone got some input on this topic? I was thinking of adding a adjustable valve but if i can get away without one i would not complain!
Chris

If your going with Disc/Disc then the adjustable prop valve is a Must! To adjust the brake bias properly you need an adjustable proportioning valve.... Nothing Else is needed to go from your Disc/Drum set up other than changing your brakes to Disc/Disc and adding the adjustable proportioning valve!

I never touched my stock factory proportioning valve that is located on the drivers frame rail, I simply done my brake up grade and added the BAER brake adjustable proportioning valve & bracket and after some spirited stops I had the brake bias where I wanted it and the car now stops from 74mph with in 2 seconds without skidding or breaking the tires loose!

We sell the BAER adjustable prop valves for $49.00 and the bracket for $25.00



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[salvageV6]

From the Baer instructions.

 

[scot w.]

Didn't do any of that and mine work fantastic!

 

[scot w.]

From the Baer instructions.

I just looked through all of my instructions that I received from BAER when I done my complete brake upgrade and none of my instructions had this paper anywhere. I am looking at the instructions that Did come with my BAER prop valve and no where does it say to remove those items.

I have absolutely no issues with my brakes and they perform excellent the way they are and I wouldn't change anything at this point... I have a customer right now fighting a leaking issue with his factory OEM "replacement" proportioning valve that is located on the frame because he was told to replace it with a new one. He has gone through several new factory replacement proportioning valves at this point due to constant leaking and is very frustrated. He contacted me today and is buying the BAER adj prop valve & bracket and he is going to install his original OEM valve back on and be done with it....



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[salvageV6]

You definately need the adjustable valve for sure, I just went through that process, it's relatively easy to install.

Other mod. shown above takes out the residual pressure guts that drums have vs. disks.

 

[scot w.]

You definately need the adjustable valve for sure, I just went through that process, it's relatively easy to install.

Other mod. shown above takes out the residual pressure guts that drums have vs. disks.

Correct! but be careful taking some of that stuff out because the plunger is part of the seal and if removed can cause leaks... All cars are different and to make matters worse there were recalls on the OEM prop valve... One style has the nut to remove those parts and another replacement does not! and there were even others out there supposedly as well...

Best thing is not to fool with 20+ year old parts if you don't have too! LOL

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[6togo]

So the adjustable Prop. will allow you to fine tune the balance between the F&R and no mod is needed to the frame mounted prop. valve which sounds easy enough however i did read on another site you should remove the rubber plunger for the combo to work best like the directions posted above. I just dont want to mess up a brand new valve in doing so!
Chris

 

[scot w.]

So the adjustable Prop. will allow you to fine tune the balance between the F&R and no mod is needed to the frame mounted prop. valve which sounds easy enough however i did read on another site you should remove the rubber plunger for the combo to work best like the directions posted above. I just dont want to mess up a brand new valve in doing so!
Chris

You won't mess up the brand new adj valve and keep in mind you risk the nightmare of fooling with a 20+ year old frame mounted valve! I would suggest that you install the brakes, Adj prop valve and bleed the system properly with a power bleeder and see how it does first before messing with the OEM valve.

Does your OEM prop valve on the frame have a large nut? If so, that is the one they are referring to in those instructions by removing that stuff but there again you have to be careful Not to remove the rubber plunger as it acts as a seal.... If Not, then you have a recalled unit that you can't remove anything from it anyway so your back to square one.......

I am just telling you what I done and it has worked perfectly ever since I installed my brake up grade and it's not like I baby this brake system.


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[scot w.]

Sorry I forgot to answer your first question... Yes the adjustable prop valve allows you to adjust the brake bias between the front & rear brakes! It just took a couple spirited outings to get it dialed in to where I like it....




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[salvageV6]

I just modded a 21 year old iron, slightly rusty, stocker when I did the Baer install in 2004 or 05.

It was easy enough.

I had a new one but didn't want to gut it it was too purdy in brass.

I think the O.P. will know quick enough if he has any rear brake drag with the residual valve after the install.

 

[6togo]

My frame mounted Prop. valve is a brand new brass unit from Kirbans the original cast one is in a crate on the shelf that is the one i was worried about. If i understand correctly the factory valve limits how much pressure goes to the rear being less or more from the front so would you not want any restiction so all 4 calipers are equal then use the adjustable prop. valve to dial it in? It just seems to me you are double biasing the system being the factory unmodded valve is doing this and so will the adjustable that make any sense? Sorry for the ignorance just trying to understand the system better so i make a good choice!
Chris

 

[scot w.]

My frame mounted Prop. valve is a brand new brass unit from Kirbans the original cast one is in a crate on the shelf that is the one i was worried about. If i understand correctly the factory valve limits how much pressure goes to the rear being less or more from the front so would you not want any restiction so all 4 calipers are equal then use the adjustable prop. valve to dial it in? It just seems to me you are double biasing the system being the factory unmodded valve is doing this and so will the adjustable that make any sense? Sorry for the ignorance just trying to understand the system better so i make a good choice!
Chris

Chris, You are correct when saying it might be double biasing the system but there were factory replacement prop valves used in recalls by several other companies that Were Not able to remove those parts to lessen the factory Disc/Drum bias. Does the new Kirban prop valve have the nut that allows you to remove those parts?

I simply voiced what I done to my car and how well it performs Without any mods done to the OEM prop valve and that the system can work just fine without mods. It's year two now of very hard stopping on Autocross' along with BAER brake speed stop challenges. All cars are different when fooling around with 20+ year old parts that are exposed to the elements like the factory prop valve and I am sure Modding or Not it will work just fine both ways..


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[6togo]

Scot,
From the look of the kirbans valve it does have the removable end to do the mod and i also talked to John (Jevans) about his 4 wheel disc setup he is running the stock valve and thats it said it work fine so you are very correct when you say all cars are different! I think i may do some tinkering and see what i come up with but i will be getting a adjustable valve for sure!
thanks,Chris