Proportioning valve questions

[Hognose]

Ok,I checked my car yesterday and I still have the stock cast Proportioning valve on there.
I have read that this was a reacl item. A few people said GM recently replaced it for them. How did you go about doing this.

One vendor mentioned 2 and 4 disc valves, what the benefits of each?

A few people mentioned that they could hold more boost due to the new valv. Will this really true even if mine is still working?

Is this a part that I should change as a preventive maintainence item or not worry about it if mine is still working.

I still have a Power Master and plan on keeping it that way.

Thanks
Matthew

 

[Bweavy]

Matthew we have he new ones in stock If the warranty has ran out.

 

[salvageV6]

The prop. valve was a Canadian only recall.

If a dealership is doing it in the USA and you want it done, I would start there first.

Or you could check with your local dealership probably in person would be best and ask the service dept.

I still have the steel ones on both my cars mainly due to the fact that changing them would not be so easy as the lines are corroded onto the original steel valve pretty solidly, not rusted out, just stuck tight.

No issues with the steel one so far and I never bled or swapped/changed fluid unless I had a powermaster failure which was once, and 3 broken lines in the last 2 years due to rust. That required bleeding and new fluid also.

If you can get the lines off easy enough after using PB Blaster on them for a couple of days prior, then it may be worth it for you to change to the brass valve from Brian or GM.

Make sure all the bleeders are operational as well or you may be installing new front or rear calipers.

Just my .02.

 

[Bweavy]

The prop. valve was a Canadian only recall.

If a dealership is doing it in the USA and you want it done, I would start there first.

Or you could check with your local dealership probably in person would be best and ask the service dept.

I still have the steel ones on both my cars mainly due to the fact that changing them would not be so easy as the lines are corroded onto the original steel valve pretty solidly, not rusted out, just stuck tight.

No issues with the steel one so far and I never bled or swapped/changed fluid unless I had a powermaster failure which was once, and 3 broken lines in the last 2 years due to rust. That required bleeding and new fluid also.

If you can get the lines off easy enough after using PB Blaster on them for a couple of days prior, then it may be worth it for you to change to the brass valve from Brian or GM.

Make sure all the bleeders are operational as well or you may be installing new front or rear calipers.

Just my .02.

With these cars up North Alan it seems like PB blaster 2 days of spraying before you attempt anything on the brake lines is mandatory!

 

[WHEEZER]

Dealer re-placed mine @ no charge.

 

[Hognose]

Dealer re-placed mine @ no charge.

Where do you live?


Thanks for the info. Brian, I will add that to my list of things to get from G-Body parts! LOL

My lines look pretty good if I remember, I didn't pay to much attention. I was mainly looking to see if I had the origanal on there. In fact it still had a tag on it! I was pretty surprised to see that!

So I guess I will change it out before to long.

Thanks,
Matthew

 

[WHEEZER]

Western NC