PT6776 BB owners take a look plz

[jcj53115]

For those of you that bought the Precision BB 67 and Actuator did your actuator look like THIS???? I'm a bit disappointed in they way they did this. I literally came out of the box just the way you see it in the first pic. I still gotta re-clock it yet too and thats goona throw it way off to I think. You can see how far up its clocked in the 3rd pic. I added a few more just for the heck of it. Can't wait to get this back on the road in the next week or so. Should be a whole new ride with the BB67, new converter, Maft Pro.

 

[Alaskabuick]

clock...

Comon man,, you really just put this post on here to show off that sweeeeeet looking motor.. Nice job!

Yes the turbo leave a little to be desired for position....

 

[jcj53115]

Comon man,, you really just put this post on here to show off that sweeeeeet looking motor.. Nice job!

Yes the turbo leave a little to be desired for position....

It does look good don't it But the main reason for the post is the actuator. I ordered what they told me was the CORRECT actuator for this turbo and what I got was one with a Hole drilled in it in a different location and had another hole welded shut. Hell I could have done that with my actuator off my old turbo. I just cant believe they consider this the right one for this application. Looks like a back yard hack job IMO. Not to mention after I re-clock the comp. housing I'm gonna have to drill ANOTHER hole in it to line up the waste gate rod!!!

 

[BEATAV8]

Yep that's they way they make 'em. From the pics you have there I think your wastegate rod will line up OK after you clock the comp cover down a bit.

Be sure to port your wastegate hole so it matches your puck. You'll have to pull the turbine housing off to do that.

Also might need a dab of loctite to seal the threads on the oil supply fitting / restrictor.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Yep.
When it comes to orientation and positioning of the compressor cover and actuator during assembly, they do not have an actual jig or motor to use to align everything. The builders have a general guideline to follow that gets the compressor cover orientation close. This is the same for all Buick 3 bolt turbos that get an actuator with the order. When you figure two guys are averaging 100-150 turbos a week and out of those maybe 20 are Buick 3 bolts, on top of that out of those 20 maybe 5-6 get an actuator with them, you can see some slight differences in the clocking. I can say tho, that those guys in the shop bust tail and are very good at what they do. All of them. Matt, Jim, Steve, Dan, Tony, everyone back there kicks butt.

When I took my 6031RE out of the box, and installed it, I too had to reclock the compressor cover down slightly. This turbo is physically identical in dimensions to your 6776RE. Only real differences are the wheels. And yes, your actuator that you show is identical to the one I have and it works flawlessly.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/Patricks_cars/87 Turbo T/DSC00481.jpg

I re-clocked my cover, being careful not to rotate the cover too fast or use too much force and re-tightened all the backing plate bolts hand tight in a criss cross fashion. Reason being is, there is an O-ring that helps to seal the compressor cover to the backing plate. And if you use to much force there is a chance that you can tear it. They do put a dab of oil on the o-ring during assembly so you should be ok. You should be good to go from there.

The only other issue I had was this,

The special oil feed line sticks up too high. It keeps the heat shield from sliding down far enough to be bolted up to the question mark bracket. You either have to cut/notch your heat shield to clear the oil line, or create a different oil feed line setup using different fittings.
Hope this helps, and you are going to love that turbo.
Sweet looking motor too.

Patrick

 

[jcj53115]

Yep that's they way they make 'em. From the pics you have there I think your wastegate rod will line up OK after you clock the comp cover down a bit.

Be sure to port your wastegate hole so it matches your puck. You'll have to pull the turbine housing off to do that.

Also might need a dab of loctite to seal the threads on the oil supply fitting / restrictor.

Not that I dont believe you but Its hard to believe that thats the actuator they make for this turbo. Its a hack job to say the least and looks like crap IMO. You'd think they would make an actuator with the CORRECT bracket to bolt to the comp housing in a visually pleasing manner. Oh Well I guess.

 

[jcj53115]

Yep.

The special oil feed line sticks up too high. It keeps the heat shield from sliding down far enough to be bolted up to the question mark bracket. You either have to cut/notch your heat shield to clear the oil line, or create a different oil feed line setup using different fittings.
Hope this helps, and you are going to love that turbo.
Sweet looking motor too.

Patrick

I dont plan to use the shield so thats not a problem, but I too have to twist and finagle the oil feed a bit yet to get it to fit correctly. The way its bent has it running way to close to the header.


Thanks For the compliments guys.

 

[RUQWKNF]

The problem is, Garrett only makes one style of wastegate actuator with bracket already spot welded to the actuator can. This would be a bone stock TA series adjustable wastegate actuator. We are lucky that Garrett still makes parts for the Buicks. And getting Garrett to tool up just one specific backing plate bracket/flange for the Buick specific 3-bolt is impossible. Then goodness they offer a stiffer spring "heavy duty" actuator tho.

Patrick

 

[tbirdv6]

Yep.
When it comes to orientation and positioning of the compressor cover and actuator during assembly, they do not have an actual jig or motor to use to align everything. The builders have a general guideline to follow that gets the compressor cover orientation close. This is the same for all Buick 3 bolt turbos that get an actuator with the order. When you figure two guys are averaging 100-150 turbos a week and out of those maybe 20 are Buick 3 bolts, on top of that out of those 20 maybe 5-6 get an actuator with them, you can see some slight differences in the clocking. I can say tho, that those guys in the shop bust tail and are very good at what they do. All of them. Matt, Jim, Steve, Dan, Tony, everyone back there kicks butt.

When I took my 6031RE out of the box, and installed it, I too had to reclock the compressor cover down slightly. This turbo is physically identical in dimensions to your 6776RE. Only real differences are the wheels. And yes, your actuator that you show is identical to the one I have and it works flawlessly.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/Patricks_cars/87 Turbo T/DSC00481.jpg

I re-clocked my cover, being careful not to rotate the cover too fast or use too much force and re-tightened all the backing plate bolts hand tight in a criss cross fashion. Reason being is, there is an O-ring that helps to seal the compressor cover to the backing plate. And if you use to much force there is a chance that you can tear it. They do put a dab of oil on the o-ring during assembly so you should be ok. You should be good to go from there.

The only other issue I had was this,

The special oil feed line sticks up too high. It keeps the heat shield from sliding down far enough to be bolted up to the question mark bracket. You either have to cut/notch your heat shield to clear the oil line, or create a different oil feed line setup using different fittings.
Hope this helps, and you are going to love that turbo.
Sweet looking motor too.

Patrick

Patrick,
When clocking the turbo-what are the symptoms of a damaged O ring?
FRED

 

[RUQWKNF]

If it was completely torn, you might be able to feel air being sucked in at the seam where the compressor cover pressed onto the backing plate at idle. Under boost it would blow boost pass that seam and you might loose a pound or two. That could be a true symptom. If you've recently clocked your cover and all of a sudden one day you notice you've lost a pound or two of boost with no other changes. But I seriously doubt that it could be that much. Only way to know would be to take off the E cover and check the o-ring.
HTH

Patrick