Bescurred
BOOSTED SHAMU v2.0
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2001
- Messages
- 1,580
So do you or don't you have a way of watching your fuel pressure while your into the boost?
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SignUp Now!Yes.. Ran her yesterday with a good quality fuel pressure test gauge. Proved my rail mounted gauge wrong. I'm rising from 43psi to 70psi at 20lbs of boost.So do you or don't you have a way of watching your fuel pressure while your into the boost?
Not giving up that's for sure. Taking a step back.Don't give up. It will pay off.
Looks like a fuel issue. Right at the end of the wot hits afr starts to go lean, boost starts to drop. Pump not keeping up or clogged filter.
I appreciate your feedback. On my phone so I will view once I get home.Look at this screenshot of your log. I guarantee you have a fuel issue. Just because stuff is new does not mean you can rule it out. Your fuel is going away up top.
View attachment 233802
Tps at idle is 4.0-4.2.If you're wot and your tps is only 4.1, what is it at idle?
DITCH the narrow band. I know I know 7000 people have tuned off of it to reach low tens but that's still not the norm, it's the exception. Get a good wideband (apparently not innovate) and put it IN THE TEST PIPE. Don't put it too close to the turbo or it's going to start doing silly shit that will REALLY have you chasing your tail.
Voltage (at the alternator, fuel/alky pump, whatever) and fuel pressure at idle is worthless. Means nothing. PLENTY of cars that have a ton of problems check out fine at idle. Unless you have massive idle problems, don't worry about that. I want to know what they are at 5500 rpms. After ten hard runs.
If you have to add a ton of fuel at WOT, something's wrong. Pump, lines, or unmetered air. You know what to do there. But yes adding fuel pressure/wot fuel to see if it changes anything still checks to see if your stuff's working, so that's a good thing. If you up wot fuel to change the lean condition, and the duty cycles are too high for Eric's liking, you'll know you have a true fuel delivery problem. According to your narrowband, even when you have the pedal all the way down, your O2's are dropping at the end of your run. Your pump's either not keeping up, or the voltage TO the pumps fading up top. I'd like a wideband view of that but they're still right, you're fading up top.
And I'd like to know what the problem is with Accufab? Are they known for going bad often? Please advise. I have one lol.
And honestly, I know a lot of people aren't going to like this but throwing parts possibilities at the car for diagnosis sakes is a waste of money. In my personal experience, I've NEVER EVER fixed a car's problems by changing a fuel filter or O2 sensor. It's NEVER a fuel filter or O2 sensor. Never. I've seen cars with 200,000 plus miles on them with fuel delivery issues on them, and when we changed the fuel filter, it fixed NOTHING. EVER. Once we've sorted out the problem, my stubborn self put the old fuel filter back on to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE I wasn't chasing my tail, and it worked EVERY TIME. Don't start randomly replacing parts and sensors on a car to diagnose it. It's a waste of time and money. Wanna see my garage? I'll show you 500 dollars worth of old beat up "bad" parts that still work just fine lol.
Out of curiosity, why would I want to start logging fuel pressure. Testing it with a gauge, I am building boost 1:1. I mean, I know it would be beneficial to always have it on the fly but is there a specific reason?Time to set up fp logging.
Also, do some volt drop tests, and some ohm tests on the wiring . Do both sides of the circuits..
Out of curiosity, why would I want to start logging fuel pressure. Testing it with a gauge, I am building boost 1:1. I mean, I know it would be beneficial to always have it on the fly but is there a specific reason?
I am going to move forward with the wire testing, just glad I got over this hump. Has been a thorn in my side since May![]()