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Pulling Rear Axle

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MCH86GN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
1,466
How tough? I guess that would depend on a variety factors. I have to replace a backing plate and for some reason it escape my attention that I would need to remove the axle to get it off. I probably need a profession, since I have no experience. What a pain just to replace a simple backing plate.
 
Remove the rear diff cover and drain the fluid. Rotate the carrier until you see the cross pin bolt & remove. Slide the cross pin up enough to push the axle in and remove the c-clip, then pull the axle out. Really not too bad. Might as well replace bearings & seals while you're in there.
 
Remove the rear diff cover and drain the fluid. Rotate the carrier until you see the cross pin bolt & remove. Slide the cross pin up enough to push the axle in and remove the c-clip, then pull the axle out. Really not too bad. Might as well replace bearings & seals while you're in there.
Sounds like it might not be too bad of a job, but once in there and have never see the inside I may ask more questions. Unreal, that such a stupid move will cost me this work. Good idea on replacing the bearings and seals, they are not that expense. The only thing that sux, I just replaced the rear diff. fluid in prep for this summer driving.

One thing I will do, is document the procedure with pictures and video and post the vid on tube.

Thanks,
Charles
 
Remove the rear diff cover and drain the fluid. Rotate the carrier until you see the cross pin bolt & remove. Slide the cross pin up enough to push the axle in and remove the c-clip, then pull the axle out. Really not too bad. Might as well replace bearings & seals while you're in there.
Does it make a difference on the approach if I have an Eaton Posi?
 
Worst thing that can happen is the bolt that holds the crosspin in will break. It is a total PIA to do then.
 
True, the cross pin bolt can be a PITA if it breaks. But sounds like you've been in there before if it has an Eaton Posi, so hopefully its in good shape. The Eaton shouldnt change anything, same procedure. Just did this a couple months ago to replace the seals and it was a 2 hour job tops taking my time, everything becomes clear once you're in there. Make sure to have a slide-hammer on hand to remove the bearings, I rented on from Autozone and it worked great.
 
Okay, I found the bearing and sealing on Highway Stars GN Parts. Total for seals and bearings, $80 - AC-Delco I looked on g-body parts and I saw I Mosher kit for $39. I didn't read too much on Mosher's, but will work with stock splines? Is it worth investing in?
 
Yea, the Mosers will work with the stock axles, thats what I put in my car. Make sure to run a thin bead of rtv around the seal to ensure no leaks.
 
Here's some help on pulling axles that I printed when I did mine. It is SPOT ON! Helped to make replacement of a seal an easy job - except for it leaked again after I replaced it.
However, I didn't use any RTV around the seal. I now have a new Timken seal to install some time this week.

Does the RTV go around the outside of the seal where it meets the axle housing, or are you saying to put it on the inside of the seal where it meets the axle itself? I know it may sound like a stupid question since the axle will be rotating, but I've been wrong about such things before.
 

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I put it around the seal where it meets the housing. Just a very thin layer of the black Right Stuff. Mine leaked the first time then I used that the second time and not a drop.
 
Thanks for the tip - I bought some right stuff this go around, just in case the RTV i used to seal the diff cover had dried up. Now I have both and as much as people RAVE about this right stuff, I'll probably use it on the diff cover, even though the previous job didn't leak - around the diff cover.

My brake shoes are contaminated with gear oil AGAIN, so I'll end up replacing those as well.

Apologies to the OP - didn't intend to hi-jack your thread. I'll back out of the thread now. Hope the pdf file from gnttype helps you as much as it did me.
 
Thanks for the tip - I bought some right stuff this go around, just in case the RTV i used to seal the diff cover had dried up. Now I have both and as much as people RAVE about this right stuff, I'll probably use it on the diff cover, even though the previous job didn't leak - around the diff cover.

My brake shoes are contaminated with gear oil AGAIN, so I'll end up replacing those as well.

Apologies to the OP - didn't intend to hi-jack your thread. I'll back out of the thread now. Hope the pdf file from gnttype helps you as much as it did me.

No hijack here. I have someone to do it for me. He can take them off and pull them very quickly. I think I'm going to see if he will let me video it or photograph it. The instructions are great and pics say a thousand words.
 
Thanks 87gninpa. I Replaced the seal wed. Night using right stuff and filled her up. No leaks thursday morn. After work on thursday, i gave her new shoes and a test drive. Seemed to be ok.

Friday night we played at the track for the first time since getting new injectors and chip. As i suspected i was slower than before, but zero knock. Cant wait to mount boost and fp gauges, plus install the power plate And rjc boost controller.

Thanks again for the rtv tip; i just hope i never have to do another axle seal again. Now that its not leaking, it may be time for a second set of rims!!!!
 
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