Pulling the trigger

[postal]

Well crap, I decided to spend some more money. I have been back and forth and back and forth about what to do with my car. I popped my head gasket at Bowling Green and the car has sat since. My motor has little over 100K mikes on it. I thought about putting ported heads and a cam in it, but I felt like good $$'s would be needed to go into the short block if I wanted to run 10.xx over and over again. Now some of you guys know I have been picking up some stage pieces. Every dollar I look at putting into my old motor would put me a dollar behind on building the stage motor. Back and forth, back and forth........all damn summer about what to do.

So heres the plan now:

I picked up a stage 1 block with 4 billet caps (they come with cast iron ones stock), it also has a girdle, and it is drilled for 14 bolt heads. The block aslo comes with brand new J&E pistons, pins, and rings. These are for the 3.995" bore of the block, and are for a 3.590" stroke crank with 6.5" rods. The motor will be 270 cubic inches . I'm really leaning towards saying to heck with stock or stock style heads, and going straight to stage 2 heads. I have a line on a real nice set of stage 2 heads from an Indy team. The ports on these heads are opened up as much as alot of the heads that where ported for drag motors so they should behave better on a street car. If things go well I should have all the stage 2 stuff I had collected still sitting here. So if or when I ever decided to get into the stage 2 on center block I will already have a heck of a start on one with out having to rob parts from the stage 1 motor.

Don't you guys go thinking I'm rich either. Stage stuff is out there for a reasonable price. Its just kind of hard to find it. There will be ALOT of built stock block motors out there that have more $$'s in them than I'll have in this stage 1 motor.

Wish me luck: Jason

 

[postal]

Any guesses on how fast I will be able to spool up a T66 P-trim dual ball bearing turbo with a 270" motor and a 4200 rpm stall switch pitch torque converter? Dont forget I got a blue bottle in the back that I can use in case the pig has a problem spoolin up .


Jason

 

[BoostKillsStres]

It certainly wont take long, my T66 single BB P trim is only 2 tenths slower 0-45 MPH leaving off dead idle compared to my previous TE44 and thats still with the stock D5 converter.

 

[87buick3825]

What are you goin to for headers ?

RD

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by postal
Any guesses on how fast I will be

Jason

Slower than Dr. Boost

I would of spent 100 dollars and had the car back on the road. 2 HG's = 60 bucks, plus belly pan = 20.00.. plus oil.. badabing.. back on the road instaed of a pile of trash sitting outside the house. And the rest of stuff like brakes, tranny, PS, etc stays working. Cars that sit go downhill quickly.

Dont know why ya didnt spend a saturday and got it back up n running.

Ditto on the Headers question. Those are really cheap

At this rate, that car wont be up n running till 2006

 

[87buick3825]

Originally posted by Razor

Ditto on the Headers question. Those are really cheap

At this rate, that car wont be up n running till 2006

you talkin to me ????

 

[postal]

Headers:

I now have a Lincoln TIG welder that me and a buddy went in on together. So I will be making my own headers, down pipe, and converting a sheet metal intake to EFI. This will really help keep the dollars down because going some where and paying some one to fabricate stuff like that can and will cost a ton of money. I will probably wind up with no more than $700 in the headers, DP, and EFI intake all together. "IF" I wanted to I'm sure I could sell my stock intake, stock TTA headers with new ATR stainless x-over pipe, and my ATR 3" down pipe for alot more than what I'll have in the pieces I will be making / modifying.

I hope the car doesn't stay down until 2006. In fact I would like to have it ready for Bowling Green next year. If I do get held up on the new motor it will be no big deal to me. My long term goal has always been to go fast. The funny thing is how quickly you can change what you consider fast to be. At one point in time I thought having a 12.50 car would be kick ass. My car went low 11's 3 years ago. I probably will never feel like a low 11 second street car is slow but for me its lost its thrill. I'm sure the satisfaction of going 10.9 or 10.8 with ported heads and a cam wouldn't have mattered much or lasted long for me. Now a 10.99 stock long block run would have made me happy but eventually it would have been time to do a motor. The reason for the stage stuff is because I mthink you get a whole lot more for your money.

I will be looking for 10.0 with the new motor. I would think that would be a reaonable goal for a stage car thats hooking up.


Jason

 

[trading t/a]

You're abetter man than me, I wont say what my build just cost but it is way north of your block, rotating assembly and heads combined . WTF who cares it's only money and was assured the heads have enough done to em to blast a 10.xx out of it then detune for bottom 11's on the street

Will need an alky kit though $7.25 is hella expensive for 116

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by 87buick3825
you talkin to me ????

If the shoe fits

well its not the money but time.

I'm jealous you have all the time to do that. Let alone the ability, tools, materials, etc..

Me.. I barely have time to change the oil on my car. Here I am, suppossed to be putting it on a dyno tommorrow AM, exhaust system is still on the floor, needs an oil change, needs cleaning, and I have to pack a bunch of stuff.

Gonna be a long nite.

Julio

Got my wideband bung welded on today

 

[postal]

Well I'm pumped about the project. I'm really curious to see what the grunt of a 270" motor that comes up on boost fast feels like. I'm considering re-working some of my rear suspension geometry and a cage will be on my high priority list.

I will be planning on trying out the alky set up that I'm working on with a friend. It should prove to be a pretty hardcore alky set up.


Jason

 

[DR BOOST]

......before you get neck deep in a huge project, will u just change those damn headgaskets and get your car running.

the longer u let a car sit, the more crap breaks when u do get it running.

fix the gaskets, turn the wick down to about 11.50's and enjoy the car.

once in a while, set the car on kill, lose to me a couple of times and then twiddle on the stage motor.

oh btw....what bb66 are u talking about?.. i think you are gonna need shotgun to get that back


surej

 

[postal]

oh btw....what bb66 are u talking about?.. i think you are gonna need shotgun to get that back

HA! I knew it! I knew once you got your hands on my balls that you wouldn't want to let go. Now listen up little feller you go get your own balls and give me mine back!

Lets go racing this weekend. Order a damn air bag out of summit and lets go get nice time slip before winter.


Jason

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by postal

I will be planning on trying out the alky set up that I'm working on with a friend. It should prove to be a pretty hardcore alky set up.


Jason

Hardcore.. how bout 512 rwhp on Felpro 9441's and pump gas.

See i'm knocking on Dr. Boost's numbers

And I too agree.. put the beer down for a day and change the gaskets

BTW.. I aint touching the balls

 

[postal]

And I too agree.. put the beer down for a day and change the gaskets

and

fix the gaskets, turn the wick down to about 11.50's and enjoy the car.

Come on guys stop bustin my balls.

Surej: You have a brand new built motor. You have most of the best pieces money can buy. Change your block, crank and rods and you have a solid 9 second car.

Razor: You have a VERY nice low mileage TTA. Your car is clean and straight with a relatively tight low milage engine.

MY car..... Not clean, not straight, and over 100,000 miles on the motor. I would not be comfortable trying to run the car hard if I went to good heads, cam, and intake on my old motor. If I did switch to those parts and actually turned the car down to 11.50 then I will have wasted every single dime I spent on:
1. Wide band fuel management system ($1700)
2. Ford 9" rear end with detroit locker ($1800)
3. T-400 switch pitch ($1700)
4. liquid IC ($1500)
5. big fuel system ($800)

There are other little pieces here and there but the ones listed above come out to $7500!! and its taken me a little over 3 years to gradually buy these components. I went 11.30 over 3 years ago with much cheaper pieces. I decided back then that I wanted to go faster. Now I have seen guys jump right into thier motors. They usually go way over budget on the motor, and then once its built they either can't afford to get the supporting pieces they need to take full advantage of the motor, or they get the butts way in hock on credit cards . I wanted to build my car up so when I did do a motor that all or most of the other pieces of the puzzel would be already there. My car and all its mods to date are paid for. I'm barrowing $5000 against my car through my credit union to do my new motor (much lower interest rate that way). I will not feel bad about being in hock 5K on a TTA with a stage motor in it.

If I had a cleaner lower mileage TTA I would probably be taking a totally different approach to this. That said it is kind of nice not having a nice one. I would not have felt comfortable doing some of the stuff I have done to my car if it had been nice.

Jason

 

[Lunkan]

Don´t listen to them, You do what please You. At least I do what please me most. I blew both headgaskets in July and the result of that? Only the crank and rods are stock

Sure, it costs. But if I want to do it? If I don´t fancy cruising? I´ve got all the time during the winter and don´t have to start tearing the engine apart in December and maybe still don´t have all the parts in January. Now I´ll be done with the whole car by December instead.

Go for it
/Andreas

 

[DR BOOST]

Originally posted by Lunkan
Only the crank and rods are stock

please dont tell me u put a stock crank in a stage block


postal....put down the beef sandwich and get the car running.


p.s. sunday at byron

 

[postal]

Byron will probably shut you down if you go faster than 11.99, But if your lucky and you slide by then you should have better luck hooking up.


Jason

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

stage heads in a tta ..... hope you dont have a heat-a/c box

 

[postal]

The A/C will probably have to go for now. I will probably have to go to a street rod style A/C unit like "Vintage Air" makes. If some thing like that doesn't work then no big deal to me.

Jason

 

[The Swede]

Originally posted by DR BOOST
please dont tell me u put a stock crank in a stage block


postal....put down the beef sandwich and get the car running.


p.s. sunday at byron

No worrys mate..... all is stock!

/Earlier owner of the car and Lunkan is a friend that lives 10 min. from me.