Qjet conversion on '84 olds 3.8 (from 2bbl)

84ZZ4

Member
Anyone have any idea what rods and hangar would be a good start? I've got plenty of rods and hangars lying around, but I would think the "B" hangar and "DR" rods I keep around for my ZZ4 Camaro would be a bit too much. Anything to get me in the ballpark would work, I can tune it from there, but I really don't even have a good idea what to start with.
 
Hmm, guess no one else knows either. :)

Guess I'll just grab a set and look for black smoke out the tailpipe. :D
 
I think Ttype83 has had good luck with the K hanger & CS secondaries.
If I remember right? He said he can get 13-14 psi. of boost w/ out knock with that combo. That's pretty damn good;)

I was also thinking of trying the CK secondaries. They are supposed to be a bit richer than stock L69 rods but with a longer power tip. Maybe overkill, who knows?

Just my .02 cents:cool:
 
Thanks for the help... I guess I forgot to make it clear the 3.8 is NA (no turbo). I would guess those are probably too rich for mine...
 
Hey i know a **** load about q-jets, what size is the motor again? how many cyl?
also, what is the q-jet off of and what model is it EX M4me m4mc m4v etc...
 
sorry if i'm a little slow...an 84 olds 3.8... are you sure it's carbed? by that time olds had q-jets and maybe dual-jets on 307's, they kept those until 90 when they stopped production. i cant imagine an olds with a 3.8 carb.
anynway, i would use a K hanger and ch or cp rods(try ch first). this is usually an ecomony combo and is used on v-8's. in your case it will probably run nice, maybe a little rich. throw in the cp's and see what happens.
second, make these two adjustments...
bend the vacuume tang that pulls the secondary air door closed on the right side of the carb so that when the car is idling the air doors are pulled just a C-hair short of fully closed. if you open it more, the carb will bog. second find the adjustment for the air door spring tension under that tang. there is a micro flathead screw. directly underneath the screw there is a allen screw acting as a stake for the flathead. loosen the allen a bit then tighten the flat screw a bit, 1/4 turn-1/2 turn. this will increase the vcacuume needed to open the doors, which sounds like a bad thing, but on your engine should increase the crispness of the secondaries and open them only when the engine needs them. if the car can take the carb fine, the reverse the change.
 
It's on a 231 (3.8L) Buick motor in an '84 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The Qjet is an E4ME off of a V8 '86 or so Camaro. I plan on retaining the computer controls, so I shouldn't have to worry about the primary side. I just took the carb apart, cleaned it good, rebuilt it, yada yada... Had to replace the primary vacuum break and the TPS, but the MC solenoid tested good and the choke coil appears good.

I know some about Qjets, I've rebuilt 3 or 4 and tuned a few more, but I'm not familiar with the fueling requirements of the 231 V6, all my work has been on 305/350 small block chevies. I'm basically trying to figure out what hanger and secondary rods I should start with. I should be able to tune the secondaries ok if I can get a starting point.
 
sorry if i'm a little slow...an 84 olds 3.8... are you sure it's carbed? by that time olds had q-jets and maybe dual-jets on 307's, they kept those until 90 when they stopped production. i cant imagine an olds with a 3.8 carb.

Yup, it has a dualjet on it right now (I think that's the right name, it looks like a qjet with the secondaries lopped off). Swapping to the E4ME should be a fairly trivial exercise since the computer controls are identical.

anynway, i would use a K hanger and ch or cp rods(try ch first). this is usually an ecomony combo and is used on v-8's. in your case it will probably run nice, maybe a little rich. throw in the cp's and see what happens.

Okay, I know I have at least one set of CH's around. I don't know if I have a K hangar, but I have an L lying around...

bend the vacuume tang that pulls the secondary air door closed on the right side of the carb so that when the car is idling the air doors are pulled just a C-hair short of fully closed. if you open it more, the carb will bog.

OK, will do when I get the carb swapped over.

second find the adjustment for the air door spring tension under that tang.

I already adjusted those a good bit stiffer than the setting I use on the Camaro for exactly the reason you stated. I set the Camaro about 1/4 turn past zero tension; I've got this one set about 3/4-1 turn past zero tension. I will be adjusting it as needed to cure bogging :).
 
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