Question for painters?

[rtviper]

Talked with the painter today. His plan is to clean the car with the degreaser by PPG, primer the car and apply the sealer,a metal glaze. He will block sand the sealer to smooth out any waves.
He will then wait about 3 or 4 days before he applies the single stage PPG paint. Wait a day or two and wet sand and buff. He will paint 3 or 4 coats.
I will maintain a temp around 60 to 70 degrees for at least 12 hours when primered and painted.
We will use propane space heaters to heat the area up a few hours before the car is primered and have the car in the heated area during that time. We will turn off the heaters when painting and wait until the room seems clear of spray then turn on the heaters again for the next 12 hours.
Any flaws in this scenario?

 

[rtviper]

Can you sand and primer over the original laquer paint in the door jams, then paint them with the one stage black?
The jams really look ok but was curious. Seems like it would be a pain to remove all the paint in the jams.

 

[slack_sr]

Just read the post about painting your car. I've been doing paint and bodywork for about 18 years, there are a lot of opinions on painting and techniques so I will share mine. First thing I would like to say is don't paint or even prep the car with heaters in the garage unless it is natural gas. Reason I say this is because propane and kerosene will put a fine oily mist in the air which will land on the car and cause intercoat adhesion problems. What I mean by intercoat adhesion problems is that the paint may have problems bonding to the substrate. I just witnessed this 2 days ago when my friend, who just payed a guy $7500 to restore a 1948 Buick Roadmaster convertible started peeling the base and clear off his car in 3 foot long sheets. This happened because the guy used a couple kerosene or propane heaters in his garage and it left an oily mist on his car. I know some shops by me will rent a booth for $200-300 for the day. If you know someone with a booth ask them.
My suggestion to you for painting would be, do whatever bodywork needs to be done, clean everything properly using PPG DX330, tack the body and apply 1 coat of DP90LF epoxy primer, let it flash off for at least 1 hour and then apply 3 to 4 coats of either PPG NCP 260 or 271 primer. NCP 260 is a gray primer surfacer and NCP 271 is a corrosion resistant primer. I would let the primer dry a couple days and then block sand the car with 360-400 grit sandpaper. After you sand the car clean it thoroughly, making sure there is no residue in any cracks or crevices and wipe it again with DX330. Now the painting begins. I would apply 1 coat of PPG NCS 2005 black sealer, let it dry for about an hour, wet nib sand any dust with 600 grit paper, tack off body and start applying base. I would recommend applying 2-3 coats of DBC base coat, letting the base dry 15 minutes between coats and tacking prior to each coat. When your done with the base I would recommend using the DCU 2021 clear, it's formulated not to attract dust as easily as other clears. I would apply 3 coats, letting it dry 15 minutes between coats, NO tacking between coats as this will mar the finish. After your done let the car dry 1 day and either wet sand using a block or dry sand using a DA with 1500 grit paper. Buff out the clear and you will have 1 awesome, wet looking car. From all the cars I've done I know materials should not cost more than $1200. Base coat/clear coat is the way to go. Any questions feel free to contact me. I'm not a know it all but I take pride in my work and have had a few cars and bikes make it in magazines and have never had a come back which is always a good sign.
Hope this mini-novel helps,
Mike

 

[dwall]

Heater - Propane or natural gas

Any heater that exhaust vents to the outside would provide clean heat. Maybe install a ceiling mount garage heater - like this:

Blain's Farm and Fleet : Hamilton Home Products, Inc. Gas Garage Heater

I think install would be under $400 these days - find a gas supplier who will set up propane pig (free with contract to buy their gas) outside the building and you have heat whenever you want. HTH

Note:
This kind of heater also can be removed and taken with you if you move. You need electric, some plumbing and treaded rod or bracketry to mount from ceiling and/or remove.

 

[slack_sr]

I may have made a mistake. I know kerosene units, like a torpedo heater are not clean. I know propane is like natural gas and those burns cleanly. My apology for the mistake. Kerosene does produce an oily mist. Propane is ok to use.

Sorry for the mistake,
Mike

 

[rtviper]

Slack thanks for the misinformation on propane. It scared me enought to have my natural gas furnace hooked up again. The building I am using is 12000 sq ft in size. It has been vacant for 3 years because the State did a hghway project and rendered the building unusable under Eminent Domain.
I decided not to take any extra risks and will use the huge furnace built to heat 12000 sq ft.

 

[BILL HAINES]

Slack Sr

Great Advice.. The Only Thing That I May Change Is The Clear.. 2021 Is A Pretty Slow Drying Clear,since I Started Using 4000 Clear,seems To Dry Faster Especially In An Open Air Shop. Faster Dry +less Dirt... 4000 Clear Is Like The Old Nct Clear,very User Friendly....

 

[rtviper]

We decided against clear coat. The supplier convinced me that several coats of single stage will be plenty glossy. I hope he is correct