I have a short in the electical system somewhere. It seems to be capacitive in that it usually hangs around 11 ohms. However it drops to 2 ohms and occasionally will up to around 100 ohms for couple seconds then back to around 11. This is with the battery disconnected and testing across teh 2 terminal cables. I took all leads coming off the starter post where the battery connects and as memory serves, the short was on the single small wire, not the ring with 2 wires on it. I pulled all the fuses out of the fuse box and no change, so it seems the shorted wire off the starter doesn't go to the fusebox at all, but somewhere else. Anyone have any ideas where that wire goes to if not the fusebox? This is driving me crazy killing batteries in 2 weeks.
question for the electical guru's
- Thread starter soundguy
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
10SECONDVSIX
MORE AIR
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2002
- Messages
- 115
These problems always occur when new electronics are installed on the car..
Bigger Sound Systems or Anti-Theft Devices. You will have to back track on the items installed on the Car. Otherwise I can't seem to put my finger on where this resistance would be coming from..
Joe
Bigger Sound Systems or Anti-Theft Devices. You will have to back track on the items installed on the Car. Otherwise I can't seem to put my finger on where this resistance would be coming from..
Joe
Input impedances of a typical digital DMM are very high (typ. 10M) and any change in ohmage by your "capacitive" description for the human or even std DMM to monitor has to be a very large one. Seems to me maybe your IGN switch is going... GM switches suck and usually have horrible low current - resistance characteristics (which is what your DMM is doing to measure resistances: applying a CCS (typically around 900uA) across the two terminals). I dont know the meter your using but in higher-end dig meters, capacitances above 1000pF tend to allow a "settling time" of about 5msec, which points to a very large capacitance, which is to be believed when you think of all the 12V supply filters in all of the electronics in the car.
This is why I find an easier (and more effective) way to test automotive type shorts is the amperage draw method as you may apply battery voltage during the test.
The single wire off the starter is the PPL solenoid "trigger" wire which is connected to the IGN switch... thats just my guess on a very far away car that I haven't tested myself.
Phil
This is why I find an easier (and more effective) way to test automotive type shorts is the amperage draw method as you may apply battery voltage during the test.
The single wire off the starter is the PPL solenoid "trigger" wire which is connected to the IGN switch... thats just my guess on a very far away car that I haven't tested myself.
Phil
Off the battery stud (12V constant) (stock wiring) is:
Battery, non fused - BLK
Coolant fan feed, fusible link - RED
Ignition switch feed, fusible link - RED
Light switch feed and fuse block feed, fusible link - RED
That should give you a "start" as long as your sure it was one of those wires.
Now if someone fiddled in there, then it probably is nothing like the above.
Battery, non fused - BLK
Coolant fan feed, fusible link - RED
Ignition switch feed, fusible link - RED
Light switch feed and fuse block feed, fusible link - RED
That should give you a "start" as long as your sure it was one of those wires.
Now if someone fiddled in there, then it probably is nothing like the above.
