Questions about CK billet input shaft.

[Warrant]

So when I bought my billet forward drum, it came with a paper (also stated in CK book) that the stock input shaft needs to be cut down to measure .650," which I had done. But then I decided to go ahead and get the billet input shaft....

however when I compare it to my old shaft, I notice that the end of the shaft is considerably shorter then my stock shaft already measuring .650"?. (the side that doesnt have the check ball) ???

Also, the shaft has no check ball installed. I am using a billet 9x11, do I need to take the old stuff out of my shaft?

And one more thing, the CK site said "and features solid teflon sealing rings" however there is only one installed, this kind of makes me mad...

Now I have to wait even longer for more to come. Unless do you guys think I can get the news ones already installed on my old shaft off and get on the new shaft with out ruining?

Any one know if CK will pick up phone on Saturday morning?

 

[chris718]

The shaft has already been machined short so you dont have to do it.the shaft is made with no ball capsule and the hole is drilled to a diameter that allows it to flow more oil in either direction than with the ball capsule in the end.The stock shaft comes with 1 solid and 2 scarf cut .there is ABSOLUTELY NO BENEFIT to 2 additional solid ring at those locations.I will be sure to change the description on the website.

 

[Warrant]

There is only one solid ring installed on my shaft, no others were included....?? (I suppose more research was done because in the your book it heavily suggests to use solid rings?)

Also chris, will you guys be open tomorrow, I need those instructions for the 3rd correction kit, a note was included that said to call and they would be emailed.

PS just to be sure I got everything with the 3rd correction kit, I only got one spring in a baggy. (I already have the separator plate).

 

[chris718]

All there is is 1 spring.We have a snow storm so I will not be open tomorrow.You can post any other qs to me here or in an email.Remove the roll pin that retains the 3/2 control valve and spring in the valve body .Discard the original 3/2 control valve spring.Next remove the valve .The spring goes inboard of the 3/2 control valve ,it installs with a little vaseline on the end of the 3/2 control valve .the line up is the spring ,the valve and then install roll pin.The spring loads the valve towards the rollpin,opposite of what the original spring did.

 

[Warrant]

ok.....

can you send me out some rings then since my shaft did not come complete with them.

 

[Warrant]

any one know if a local parts house would have these teflon rings? or can anyone ship any out to me tomorrow. I really need them to get this thing put together.

 

[jon86]

reuse your old ones

 

[Warrant]

I cant get them off the other shaft, looks like they are stretching to much and are getting scored by the sharp lip from the groove their in. (I have only 3 solids the other shaft)

 

[turbo nasty]

Dont even bother trying to remove and reuse 1 pc rings once installed...forgetaboutit
You will need a shrinking tool (hose clamp with something wrapped around to protect the ring from the worm gear holes in the clamp has worked in a pinch for me) to install the one piece sealing rings. The 1 pc rings are from a 4l80e. Just pick up a sealing ring kit for a 4l80e and the ones you need will be in there. Local trans shop may have some.

Sounds like the book says use one piece and now its not to?? that is disconcerning... I say use them, once installed, the 1 piece has less chance of popping off/rolling and shearing during install even with trans assembly grease on the scarf cut rings are a pain to me.

 

[jakeshoe]

The scarf cut rings that go on the input shaft work fine. Don't overthink it or sweat it here.

The one piece 4L80E rings go on the center support, I prefer to use them on my 200-4R builds over the iron rings, not for sealing but for drum wear issues, that is not what he is concerned about here....

Warrant,
call me
940-453-2582

 

[Lee Thompson]

Have to disagree on this one

The shaft has already been machined short so you dont have to do it.the shaft is made with no ball capsule and the hole is drilled to a diameter that allows it to flow more oil in either direction than with the ball capsule in the end.The stock shaft comes with 1 solid and 2 scarf cut .there is ABSOLUTELY NO BENEFIT to 2 additional solid ring at those locations.I will be sure to change the description on the website.

I just finished a build with both your billet input and billet forward drum. I had to cut some more off the input as it was bottoming out in the drum shaft. Found it when I could not set the end play. Kept installing smaller selective washers and still no clearance. Then I remembered that this happened a few years ago. Cut .100 off and then I was able to get the endplay needed. I feel better using the solid rings over the scarf cut ones.

 

[chris718]

The lube pilot on our input shaft is .490".If you got 1 that was longer it was probably a shaft we outsourced because we were out of them.I dont think that we will do that again as there were some other issues with them as well.This is not an excuse and I am sorry for any inconvenience.The value of the solid rings on the forward drum and first land of the input shaft is obvious ,however for the overrun clutch it really is not necessary.Neither is 3 clutches in overdrive but some like it anyway.