Questions on fixing oil leaks

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

GNRick

Retired member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
5,485
The transmission is out of the car, it is way up on jack stands, and I want to fix the oil leaks. I added dye to the oil and bought a UV light. Drove it some before the transmission broke. It was the second gear band anchor pin if anyone is interested. Sheared the little piece clean off. Already did the valve cover gaskets. Should I remove the flywheel and check the plug on the back of the block where the cam is? If it is leaking what is best way to repair? Then when I put the flywheel back can I re use the screws? Torque to 60 lb ft? Also, to repair rear main seal, do I have to jack up motor to remove the oil pan? Any tips would be much appreciated. Repairing all oil leaks should be made a sticky. Thanks guys!
 
The pan can be removed without jacking up the engine. You might have to put the back pistons low in the bores to swing the counterweights up into the block. I wouldn't fool with removing the flexplate as I've never heard of the cam plug leaking. Now the stock rear main seal on the other hand..... Much like the front main they're a leaky rope seal in stock form.
 
Hi Earl, thanks for the reply. The cam plug was leaking on my other TR, which is why I asked. A mechanic "fixed" it for me...not sure if the current leaks on that car are from the cam plug again or not. Anywho, the oil seems to be leaking onto the crossover pipe- is that an indication it is from the rear main? Thanks.
 
Check the rear of the block, at the back end of the intake manifold.
Check the ft of the block and along the pan rail, to see if oil is running down the rail and dripping off.
Is the fuel pump pressure sw, and/or the turbo feed line leaking at the lower ft of the block? Oil will run from there, down the pan rail, too. Same w/ the turbo return line.
 
Back
Top