racetronix plug and play and fuel pump

[Cleaner13]

ok before I start I just wanted to say that racetronix got my kit to me so fast I couldnt believe it
it was from canada and I am in New Jersey and it was here in 4 days since my order

anyways

I was taking a look at the kit and was going to try and do all of it today
but it was going to rain so I kind of cleaned up and didnt make the full attempt

heres my question

you need to drop the gas tank

how heavy is it as in can I lift the damn thing? I have about 3-4 gallons at most in it

what do I need to do to take it down besides the straps? the manual said something like pumping out the fuel
but I do not have anything like that

also I need to do it in my driveway with a jack and jack stands is this ok?

I was so close to just making the full attempt and just taking it out and then I started thinking twice and the rain kind of persuaded me more to not do it

the hotwire seems so easy cause all it is, is a giganitc wire with two plug and play ends for easy wiring

 

[BLACK MAGIC RACING]

Congratulations!! You've just made a very wise investment. Ok, to drain the tank, you can do the following:

-unplug the sending unit at the tank, start the car (or try to, if it doesn't start, then cranking it for about 15 seconds or so should releive all the pressure)

-Remove the schrader valve from the end of the fuel rail with a tire valve tool, and attatch a good size CLEAR gas line hose with the other end in a suitable gas container.

- Re attatch the sending unit and turn the key on. Watch the hose for the first sign of air bubbles, and turn the key off.

-you're now ready to drop the tank (if you're going to do it on the ground like i did, you'll be thankful you emptied the tank, trust me .

Do NOT drop the tank more than about 6-10 inches before disconnecting the lines from the sending unit,, as the hard lines are easy to damage.

Also, be sure to clean off the top of the tank well before opening up the sender. compressed air works well for this.

 

[dsa87gn]

Your right about fast delivery, I got mine in just afew days too.
I had it for a few weeks, but just put it in last night!!!

The first thing to do is to find the fue lines that come out the top back of the tank on the passenger side. There is a shield covering the connections. Take off the shield and you will find the hose connections for the fuel lines (3 total). Then take the hose clamps and hoses off. Watch for squirting fuel!!!

Next unbolt the tank straps closest to the front of the car. Leave the ones in the back as they are.

Then swing the straps out of the way and gently slide the tank forward and it will come right out. My tank was about 1/8 full and I had a friend help me drop it. It was no problem with 2 of us. If your on your own place jack with a piece of plywood under it.

Once you get the tank out you have to get the circular lock ring loose and pull the pump out. Its pretty simple from there.

There are instructions also on gnttype.org about pulling the tank I believe.

Good luck, the car will run much better when your done!!

 

[Turbo Dog]

I admit that I had a mechanic install my Racetronix hotwire and pump. I didn't feel confident doing the pump myself, although the hot wire wouldn't be too tough, as Racetronix has some clear install pics on their website. I paid $135. He charged me 3 hours labor. Anyway, the car runs fine and I didn't get dirty.

 

[Tow Man]

Cleaner13, Don't get discouraged, It's a piece of cake! I did mine in the driveway and took less than 2 hours start to finish. Follow the tips above and you'll be fine.

I disconnected the lines under the shield by the shock mount! A lot easier than at the sending unit IMO.

Be carefull mounting the fuel sock (strainer) to the pump. It's pretty fragile. Make sure the sock faces the same direction as on the stock pump. Once you put it on, you can't reposition it.

I did not reuse the pulsator. Cut a piece of the supplied hose to the proper length between the pump and tube and hose clamp it.

Save your mechanic money for the PITA things like valve springs and rear main seals

Have fun!

 

[Snorman]

You don't need to completely empty the tank, just run it very low before changing the pump. This tank is a bit bulkier than those in Mustangs (EFI cars). Because of this, I used a piece of wood on a floor jack to help lift it back into place.
Use a drift to tap the lock ring for the pump assembly loose. Tap each ear of the lock ring, don't hammer the sh*t out of one ear and get the ring twisted. Do the same when reinstalling.
Remember which way the sock (in-tank filter) is facing when you remove the assembly. If you look into the tank after removing the assembly, it will be very apparent which direction the sock should be positioned.
Realize that with the hot wire kit, unless you run the wiring all the way through the driver's side fender and then back to the alternator, that you will have about 2 feet of extra wire.
Double check your work. Double check your work.
S.

 

[granitestategn]

Racetronix Rocks!

I put a Walbro 340 and hotwire kit in a couple of months ago. Very complete kit and not too much trouble. If you take your time you can hide 99% of the hotwire kit. I just siphoned my tank as dry as I could before I dropped it. I did it solo, no help. I do have a hydraulic floor jack and used a piece of wood between it and the tank. BTW, I had a brain fart and put the sock on 180* out. It was difficult, but not impossible, to remove it, rotate and reinstall it. This job is not too tough for most. Just take your time and wear eye protection because of the gas and debris falling of the bottom of the car. After you get your pump in, it's time to play.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by turbo_canuck
Congratulations!! You've just made a very wise investment. Ok, to drain the tank, you can do the following:

-

- Re attatch the sending unit and turn the key on. Watch the hose for the first sign of air bubbles, and turn the key off.

.

Ummm, you left out one minor detail. Just turning the key on isn't going to pump out the tank, the pump will only run for a few seconds (prime). You have to supply power to the fuel pump priming connector just below and behind the alternator (black connector with nothing connected to it) to get the fuel pump to run continuously.

 

[Silver 6]

My method for the pump swap was just a bit different. I was able to do it in my driveway, no lifting, the tank stayed under the car, and it seemed to go quick.

First I drained all possible gas. I just used a cheap plastic hand pump through the filler pipe.

Place the rear of the car on jack stands.

Loosen the fuel tank strap bolts between the tank and the rear end. These go straight up and down. Don't remove them.

Remove the fuel tank strap bolts between the tank and the rear bumper. These go through from side to side.

Now the tank will drop down at an angle with the rear hitting the ground and still be supported by the straps toward the front. You have an excellent view and access to the top of the tank. Disconnect the lines, knock off the ring, pull the old pump, and reverse to install.

It is not hard to lift the empty tank back into place. Reinstalling the fuel tank straps is a sinch because the bolts slide through in the rear and then you just retighten the front strap bolts.

 

[turbo buicks]

after messing w/the 3 lines under the heat shield by the shock i called jack cotton and he said, with the heatshield off, drop the tank and unplug the three lines from the top of the sending unit. when you can lean on top of the tank and fiddle w/the lines at eye level it is much easier to work w/them and get leverage. and you dont get crap in your eyes. just be careful lowering the tank and watch the lines.

 

[GNANIMO]

do you have to buy a new sock?? I am thinking about attempting this tomorrow.

 

[Danster]

Mine came with a new sock. My old sock was torn.


Dannyo

 

[GNANIMO]

Originally posted by Danster
Mine came with a new sock. My old sock was torn.


Dannyo

Just checked my packaging now that I am home. I have a new one in the kit!

 

[Dan Thompson]

Here is a good recipe I followed

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/fpinstall.html

The long bolts on the front of the tank near the muffler will allow for easier install and removal than the rear bolts. There is more play with these bolts.

 

[Silver 6]

I used the rear bolts because I was doing it on jack stands. I loosened the long bolts in the front and then was able to easily remove the rear bolts. This drops the rear of the tank making it simple to access the top of the tank right there under the car or to remove the tank altogether.

With the car on stands it also much easier to replace the tank with the rear bolts removed. You can just slide it back in onto the straps and lift it into place. Because the rear bolts slide in, you don't have to work at getting them started while holding the tank and strap in place at the same time.

Either end works, its just that I do most of my own work and this made it easier for me.

 

[GNANIMO]

ok I am in the middle of doing it right now. I have the pump out of the tank but I don't like the way the pulsator is lining up with everything. Can I just remove it and replace it with some of the line that was provided?

What is the positive or negative in doing so?

 

[Cleaner13]

I removed the pulsator
I then replaced it by cutting the line provided for a good fit

no problems yet

Carl

 

[Snorman]

Definately eliminate the pulsator. If you don't, there's a very good chance that you'll assemble everything, put the tank back in, turn the key...and nothing will happen because the damn pulsator will be leaking.
Just splice in the length of hose supplies with the RT kit (cut to length, of course).
S.

 

[GNANIMO]

Thanks very much for the quick responses gentlemen.

 

[GNANIMO]

It's not working!! I put the tank back in and I get nothing. I can't hear the pump even priming.

I pulled the tank back out and took out the pump, just so I could check the connections etc etc. The original sock that I had was a lot longer than the one I got with the kit. I originally put it facing the drivers side but read after it should face the passenger side.. whatever... I moved it over.

Anyways I am just checking it with a test light now and I get nothing from the fuel pump connection (outside of the tank/pump, the female black connection. I checked the 15A FP/INJ fuse and it is fine.

I am trying to use any bolt/part of the frame for a ground under the car with no luck.

Please give some suggestions, I am supposed to be driving this thing NOW!