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Raising the redline?

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87V6

New Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
15
Has anybody significantly raised the redline? It seems to me (I may be wrong, I'm not yet a turbo expert) that with a larger turbo a lot of gains would be seen with a higher redline. What would be necessary to raise the redline to say, 6k or even 7k, and do you think there would be worthwhile gains from it?

Thanks for the input.
 
On normal driving I'll shift at around 5 grand.

At the track, I'll hit 6 grand for the 2nd to 3rd shift due to the lock up.

However, I have a balanced/blued motor, billet caps, and a full roller engine.

Engine builder said it could go more, but not much hp is made after that anyway...actually, I start dropping around 5700-5800...but the power band during the shift is hit better with 5900-6000 2nd gear.

I agree with you, higher rpms can help...but I'd be interested to see how my car behaves on a dyno before I make any claims to my madness.
 
I don't have a whole lot of experience driving my car yet. With the little led tach it's hard to tell exactly what RPMs you're running too. When does the 200R4 shift at in a stock setup, and how would you change that?

And is the limitation in the redline an inherent weakness in the valetrain? My last car was a 3000GT VR-4 and people were raising the redline by 1000 or 1500rpms all the way to near 9k with titanium valve springs. Anything similar that could be done with this engine, or is a rebuild going to be necessary?
 
Stock shifts at 5000 RPM...There is NO REASON to shift it higher then that with a stock cam...After 5000 it's pretty much dead.

After a new cam and ported heads you might want to try some higher RPM shifts, or the best way to do it is Dyno it and see where the HP drops off.
 
My car Noses over at 5300 RPM. The stock heads don't flow squat. No need to raise anything until you go deep into the motor (or replace it with a Stage II)

With monster ported heads and a big turbo, the stock crank will brake pretty easily above 6K RPM.
 
The stock Buick V6 is a TOTALLY different engine from the Mitsu engine. The crank is cast, the rods are cast, the stroke is long relative to bore, the lube system is relatively primitive, and the intake system is not the latest, greatest design. The stock engine is just not built for high rpm, and besides, the high rpm is not needed. With a good cam, 6000 rpm is Ok, but much beyond that, you would be better off going to Stage I or II, and a forged crank. The Stage blocks are stronger, and have some improvements, or potential for improvement, in the lube system.
 
hey new VA guy

the buick runs on something the mitsu dont and cant have ........................................................................ torque :cool:
 
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