Rear end on the way out

[NY_GN]

Looking at replacements. Any suggestions or anyone use the one in the link below.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csumct005

 

[pacecarta]

no
thats a floater axle setup more for circle track, and 28 spline are weak axles
you'd still need a center section , gear set , pinion yoke, driveshaft , clipers and mounts , spring perches , shock mount and assembly
try moser or quickperformance if you're after a 9" thats a bolt in but be prepared to spend 2600+ just for the rear axle with brakes..youll still need a driveshaft

 

[NY_GN]

no
thats a floater axle setup more for circle track, and 28 spline are weak axles
you'd still need a center section , gear set , pinion yoke, driveshaft , clipers and mounts , spring perches , shock mount and assembly
try moser or quickperformance if you're after a 9" thats a bolt in but be prepared to spend 2600+ just for the rear axle with brakes..youll still need a driveshaft

You killed my Talladega dreams. I got bad clunking on turns and when I get out and push the car from the side it's popping and clunking near the rear diff. I looked around, but couldn't find anything.

So, what's the gn rear end rebuild recipe that guys are using?

 

[pacecarta]

on an 8,5 with your sig (te44) 28spline moser street axles (c-lip end) and a 28spline eaton posi are fine
plans for 10s do the 30spline street axles, 30spline eaton posi , track would want c-clip eliminators installed so you could use the street axles or step up to large bearing race axles also do aftermarket studs
faster ....all out build
33s , c-clip eliminators ,spool, richmond gear set forged pinion yoke , 3.5" Moly 1350 driveshaft and a girdle cover

 

[TexasT]

Have you changed the fluid and put the friction modifier in? I'm not there to "experience" the clunking so I don't know just what it is doing. That said, I'm a fan of the quick performance 9" setup for a boltin on a g body. Some guys say a 12 bolt will get ya by and consume less hp but if I'm gonna by something I like buy once and buy right.


http://www.quickperformance.com/9-Ford-Complete-Rearend-GM-G-Body-78-87_p_20384.html

One of my online friends bought one for his GS

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?308593-Quick-Performance-GM-9-quot

 

[Chuck Leeper]

The turning clunk can be the posi clutches sticking.
The side to side push can be the axles sliding in/out and hitting the c-clips against the carrier.

 

[NY_GN]

The turning clunk can be the posi clutches sticking.
The side to side push can be the axles sliding in/out and hitting the c-clips against the carrier.

If it is the axles sliding in and out, do I need complete rebuild? Or is it something I can fix?

I'm going to upgrade anyway, but in the mean time I don't want a catastrophic failure.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The stock setup has a good amount of normal in-out movement on the axles.
Get your face mask on and drop the cover and take a good look in there that is your best bet.

 

[NY_GN]

Ok

The stock setup has a good amount of normal in-out movement on the axles.
Get your face mask on and drop the cover and take a good look in there that is your best bet.

Ok, so pulled inspected the rear diff. Everything looked good, no metal shavings, no rounded gears, no play or failing c clips.

I tightened the drums and refilled the rear diff. Clunk is gone and so is play.

I'll keep an eye on it, but it's gonna be in the back of my mind next time I get on it.

 

[john keskes]

xxx