Rear main oil seal leak

[Gnx6]

My rear main is leaking, what a suprise. Is there a rear main oil seal that is out there better than the stock rope a dope seal? I saw Kirbans has a 2 peice seal but didn't know if it was any good, or a better one is avail elsewhere.

I'm sort of at the point where I need to do a bit of work, Oil pressure sucks, (got a cover kit for that) oil pan leaks, rear main leaks. I realize these cars always leak a bit but I figured I would try to lessen it. My tranny is empty right now because I just had to do the TCC from the wiring shorting out on the metal retaining clips inside the tranny. It looks pretty simple so I was half way thingking of doing it all at once. Unless of course the rear main will leak no matter what, in which case I won't bother.

For reference there is usually about a 6 inch trail of oil every time I park the car for a week after a drive. It's not my daily, just the weekend warrior?!

Thanks for your input.

 

[sam87]

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[sam87]

FelPro #BS40613

This # is what I used & it works. Read & follow installation directions carefully.

 

[gofstbuick]

I just installed main seel kit FelPro #BS40613. Cost me $8.88 plus tax. You'll also need to purchase some anaerobic sealant from GM, Permatex or Loctite. The anaerobic sealant is applied to the mating surface of the main cap and on each side of the side seals on the block. This sealant cures in the absense of air and compresses to 0.015. Don't get it near the bearing or the main seal. Additionally, I smeared a very thin coat of ultra black sealant on the back side of the main seal after I applied grease to the part of the seal that rides on the crank, then install the main seal (I found it was easier to install the top half from the passenge side of the block). Here is a hint for the side seals. Lube the side seals and install the side seals into the main cap, so that the seal is flush with the bottom of the cap. Position the cap in the block and start the threads of the main cap bolts. do not use the bolts to pull the cap into position. Tap the main cap into position. As you tap on the cap, the side seal will seat on the block and push down. Once the cap is down, finger tighten the main bolts. Oil the the pins and tap the pins until they are flush with the main cap. Use a hammer and punch to hammer the pin once it is near the side seal, don't try to force the seal in any deeper. Torque the main cap and use a razor blade to cut the excess side seal so it is flush with the block and main cap. As you torque the cap, you'll see the anaerobic sealant push out from the mating surface and from the corners of the block, this is normal and you can wipe the excess with a clean rag. Install oil pan, exhaust crossover and torque converter inspection cover. There is cure time for the the anaerobic sealant, or you can use a catalyst to accelerate the cure time. So after the anaerobic sealant cures, fire the engine and your rear main leaks should be cured.

 

[KEVINS]

Plenty of info in the archives on this subject..

 

[tom h]

Originally posted by gofstbuick
... You'll also need to purchase some anaerobic sealant from GM, Permatex or Loctite.

I find two GM varieties. Do you recall which anaerobic sealant you used? Or which has the preferred characteristics?

One is described as "liquid" and the other as "paste". Why the "paste" should "only" be used on corvette engines isn't clear to me.

And is there a simple explanation why both anaerobic sealant and regular RTV ultrablack sealant is used??

Gasket Maker 50 ml 1052943
Product Description And Function: A liquid anaerobic
gasket in a tube. This flexible gasketing material provides
quick sealing when assembled flanges are mated with a seal
of guaranteed integrity. Adheres well to aluminum, steel,
iron and magnesium.
Application: For use with all GM vehicles.

Anaerobic Sealant 50 ml. 12345980
Product Description And Function: An anaerobic flange
sealant that can replace or be used as a dressing for
conventional or precut gaskets. A flowable paste, it conforms
to the shape of the flange. Consistency allows metal to metal
contact of the flanges while filling the area. Results in uniform
stress distribution and eliminates the need for retorquing.
Semi-flexible and has good vibration and shock resistance.
Fixes pins and collars in 90 minutes. Cures in 24 hours.
Application: For use on certain Corvette engines only.

 

[gofstbuick]

I have part number 1052756 for the anaerobic sealant. The sealant color is red. The anaerobic sealant is applied to the face of the main cap and two dots on the corner of the block (main bearing saddle) one on each side of the side seals (four dots only). When you torque the main bearing down, some of the sealant will push out from between the block and rear main and some will push out from where the corners of the main meet the corners of the block. This sealant cures in the absense of air, so once the cap is torqued, the sealant will begin to cure and create a seal between the two metal sufaces. As a precaution, I smeared a very, very thin layer of ultra-black on the back side of the rear main seal, after I apply grease to the surface of the seal that the crank rides on (not these are not the same two surfaces of the seal). Some people will sugggest replacing the side seals with RTV, but I wonder how that stuff cures, because of the quatity and or volume that is used.

 

[tom h]

Thanks. No doubt all of this will make more sense when I'm actually looking at it. Right now it's still "all in my head".

 

[gofstbuick]

Tom,
Sometimes the explanation is not described well by just words, so if you need a more verbal description, email me with a phone number and I'll call you.