Rear main seal - anaerobic sealent to use?

[Jan Larsson]

Do you guys use the Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealand (#51531) or the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker (#51813) when you do your rear main seals?

Or do you recommend something else?

 

[Grumpy]

I use the "right stuff"

 

[Woody]

I used 51813 in '02 and have no leaks............

 

[Jan Larsson]

I use the "right stuff"

Dan, what is the "right stuff"? Any web links?

 

[waddell87]

Hi guys

your talking rear main seal to tranny right?
Correct me if I'm wrong. Got same issue. Would also like to know the best.
Never leaked in17 yrs,and car sat yrs and yrs. put in tranny kit, guess my friends at precision Pro when they pulled tranny didn't replace or used same or quality.. I don't know, but now it's leaking big time at 15 run's. Had a similier issue with my '84 yrs back. blew it out, he used wrong seal, and lasted 200km. I'm not trying or think Im Hi-jacking, If I am, Sorry. Or you talking Block seals?Sorry if I messed up. I'll start a new thread. Thanks Guy's, YTBest!!

 

[waddell87]

Do you guys use the Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealand (#51531) or the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker (#51813) when you do your rear main seals?

Or do you recommend something else?

Don't forget I'm Canadian. What part numbers from whom? are you referring. For parts said? Thanks

 

[2QUIK6]

Those were Permatex part# Jan listed. My local shop did not have the Permatex sealant that does not need air to dry...So I used the "Right Stuff" on my GN and used "UltraBlack" on the TTA rear main. The "RightStuff" is a sealant thats in an aerosol can, basically the same thing as the Permatex UltraBlack except that is so much easier to use for the rear main cause you don't have to fool with mashing it out of the tube, just push the button and it sprays out, can be found at most auto parts stores.
If using a non-anaerobic sealant, all you have to do is once you have filled the cavities with sealant, dip a tiny wire in water and then stick it up thru the sealant a few times, the moisture will cause the sealant to cure.
I also let it sit for several days after bolting it back together to give it plenty of time to dry.
Worked like a champ with either of the two on both cars now for a couple of years each.

 

[wile2k]

Do you guys use the Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealand (#51531) or the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker (#51813) when you do your rear main seals?

Or do you recommend something else?

I believe mine is the flange sealant, I'd have to look to be sure.

Basically, I used a smear coat of Anaerobic on the mating surface (cap to block) and then used a "squirt" of Right Stuff in each side cavity followed by the felpro side seals and nails...

First time I did it, I just used anaerobic for everything, no seals / nails and I ended up with a leak, this time, no leak. After further consideration, I came to the conclusion that using anaerobic for the side seals wasn't the best method (but is by far the best to use for the mating surface. A few helpful folks on the Buick side suggested the method I used and so far it has been leak free.

This is on my TB, but the TTA should be similar in that department I think.

Good luck as sometimes luck seems to be what it takes

 

[Jan Larsson]

Thank guys, another question the side seals that come with the Felpro rear main seal kit some people use them and some not?

What you recommend, use the side seals and nails only ... use side seals+nails and "the right stuff" ... or just use "the right stuff" in there without the side seals?

 

[2QUIK6]

Thank guys, another question the side seals that come with the Felpro rear main seal kit some people use them and some not?

What you recommend, use the side seals and nails only ... use side seals+nails and "the right stuff" ... or just use "the right stuff" in there without the side seals?

Hi Jan, on both of mine I just used "The Right Stuff" sprayed up in the cavities until it was oozing out the seams....then poked tiny copper wire dipped in water thru the center to help cure it...don't leave the wire in, just strick it thru and pull it out.
Has worked like a charm on both cars.

 

[wile2k]

Thank guys, another question the side seals that come with the Felpro rear main seal kit some people use them and some not?

What you recommend, use the side seals and nails only ... use side seals+nails and "the right stuff" ... or just use "the right stuff" in there without the side seals?

I think either will work. The first time that I did it, I filled the side cavities before putting the main in place and this led to gaps and thus a leak. Basically I just did it wrong.

The most important part is to put the main in place first then either fill the cavities with sealant until it begins oozing out, or use the side seals with a shot of right stuff. I'm certain that it will work either way, people have success with either. I used the side seals this time and have no leaks (crosses fingers). Don't forget a smear coat of anaerobic on the mating surface.

Good luck.

 

[Razor]

Hi Jan, on both of mine I just used "The Right Stuff" sprayed up in the cavities until it was oozing out the seams....then poked tiny copper wire dipped in water thru the center to help cure it...don't leave the wire in, just strick it thru and pull it out.
Has worked like a charm on both cars.

+1.. I just dont poke it. Not needed. Just let it sit.. it will cure.

The biggest deal is not have any oil on the surfaces.. if the surfaces are bone dry and oil free.. you wont have an issue with any sealant,

This is more an issue when doing the job in car vs on an engine stand where it can sit upside down a few days.

 

[2QUIK6]

The biggest deal is not have any oil on the surfaces.. if the surfaces are bone dry and oil free.. you wont have an issue with any sealant,

This is more an issue when doing the job in car vs on an engine stand where it can sit upside down a few days.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that. I use a ton of carb cleaner making sure everything is bone dry, spray in the cavities and around the edges of the cap on the inside side of the motor and use compressed air to evaporate it on contact....let it sit for a while and do it again because oil will run down from above after a while. And try not to breath the fumes

 

[Razor]

And try not to breath the fumes

Huffing carb and brake cleaner is bad newwwssss

 

[Jan Larsson]

Thanks guys, very helpful making mine leak proof!

I got mine sitting in the engine stand so will be able to clean everything properly (without "huffing" the good stuff promise ) and can then leave it to dry properly before I put the pan back on there.

Again thanks for the help, should turn out good when I get it all back together one of these days :tongue: