Rear Main Seal

[PARKBOY]

has a BAD leak and im gonna have to change it. Is there a certain one i should buy or are they all the same? Also where is a good place to buy one?

Thanks in advance

 

[steveX]

You should use the two piece rubber seal with silcone when install. don`t let the seal set even. try to offset the end of the two half so on end is in the main cap and the other end extend up into block. you want the end half of the rubber seal to offset by 10-15 degree to the main cap and block seat.

 

[Turbo6Tech84]

Kirban sells the neoprene ones https://secure.mysuperpageshosting.com/kirbanperformance.com/index1.htm. While your there you should change the pan gasket as well. Heres the how to from gnttype.org Rear Main Seal Replacement Good Luck

 

[PARKBOY]

is there a difference between the neoprene and the rubber seal? which should i use?

 

[Lee Thompson]

rear 2 piece seal

Only one company makes the V-6 Buick neoprene 2 piece seal. The CLUB, Autozone,NAPA, it doesn't matter--all the same seal. Autozone is usually the cheapest. Best of luck.

 

[87granny]

am having mine done now that the trans is out to do the freeze plugs on the back of the block :frown:

 

[gossamer]

I used a Fel-Pro # 2903 rubber seal. Still working good. Not a drip in 10K and the engine has seen 21psi. Pretty much any auto parts store should have it .It should cost you about $11.00 for the seal. Have fun

 

[TURBOSFI]

to keep the pan gasket from sliding around while installing pan, use monofiliment fishing line thru holes in pan to tie gasket in place. This worked for me.

 

[Lynn D. Brown]

RM Seal

The 1st suggestion is a good one - push the seal half up a little so 1 side is above the gap between the shell halves and of course the other end will be the hanging below the upper shell. U don't want the shell gaps and the seal gaps lining up. Wish I would ave kown that when I did mine 10 yrs ago - it leaks badly and I need to redo it.

Some mechanics also say to not use the rubber side seals. Instead, pump the side cavities full of silicone and make sure all the air is out.

 

[PARKBOY]

Some mechanics also say to not use the rubber side seals. Instead, pump the side cavities full of silicone and make sure all the air is out.

Has anyone else done there side cavities like this?

 

[Lee Thompson]

I've installed more than one of these.

I have never had a stock crank and block leak. This is the way I was told to do it years ago by a GM service guy.
Every piece must be CLEAN !!!
Use a PAPER THIN coat of Loctite 518 on the block where the cap mates.
Fill the side slots 1/3---1/2 way full from block mating area with RTV.
Start the RIGID (never used the softer ones) side tabs in the cap but be sure not to push then in so far that the RTV goes below the mating area. (Don't want to hold the cap off the block).
Install and torque to desired value.
Now drive the side tab down (block upside down) until the RTV starts to push out between block side and cap side.
Cut excess tap off. (wood chisel works well for this)
Drive nails in and using a Q-tip removes excess RTV.
If nails drive tabs down farther fill void with RTV.
Best of luck.
It goes without saying that the lips must point toward the front and have some lube on it.