rebuild coming...what rods, pistons etc?

[Tom Tom Turbo]

I'll be rebuilding my motor this Fall probably...but I would like to start getting some parts together. I've got a small list started, but let me know what you think I'll need. The car is driven every day and I want rock solid reliability. Here's what I've got so far:

Carillio rods
JE pistons
GN1 irons (ported)
206 or 208 cam
cometic gaskets
maybe roller rockers
Razor alky kit
I'd like to run 22-24lbs on this setup with 50 lb injectors


is 30 over okay, I've heard that 20 is pushing it!?!?!

this is my first motor I've had to rebuild, and while I don't intend to do it myself, I want some knowledge before letting loose.
Is there anyone that someone reccomends in central/northern Illinois for building these motors?

 

[turbosam6]

DON'T open that motor till it craps, trust me. That things low mileage too man, just leave it. Or buy another short block and do it, keep yours stock.

 

[gmpower6]

Leave it alone


Sean

 

[Sam Colalillo]

That's a nice list, but don't forget about the main weakness in Buick motor: The two center main caps break. I would buy either an RJC main girdle or pro gram engineering billet center main caps before spending money on Corrilla rods. I have seen these center main caps break on our cars, so if you decide to rebuild it make sure you don't ignore this potential weak link.

 

[Russ Merritt]

Forget those rods and the pistons aren't nessesary for your goals either. F/M pistons or the stock ones will work and just the center caps will be plenty. If it's a low mileage motor, why are you rebuilding? If it runs good, get a block and build one for when this one dies.............if ever. Stock stuff is tougher than you think. I've seen some stock stuff put through hell and survive just fine.

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

reason for rebuild: the motor has 92K on it, at a steady 60 mph it pulls about 35 psi oil pressure, at idle about 12. There is a pretty good amount of blow-by also. I haven't fully decided to rebuild yet..but I am waiting on the motor or trans to go...which ever goes first gets the treatment. I am just worried about throwing alky and 23# of boost on a tired motor.

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

Originally posted by Tom Tom Turbo
I am just worried about throwing alky and 23# of boost on a tired motor.

must think these things are fragile

In your case If anything just a fresh hone , new set of rings and fresh bearings along with a oil pump rebuild and be done with the bottom end

untill you want to push it in the 10's stock bottom end will be fine

dont forget fresh cam bearings and while your at it might as well upgrade cam and lifters

for what youd spend on un needed rods you could get a set of cnc ported heads

 

[turbosam6]

Tom, do you have a booster plate yet? Also, thicker oil might help. Are you sure its blow by and not the turbo or guides?

 

[lost2a6]

My engine had the same symptoms at 105,000 as you describe. When I tore into it, everything looked great. You could even still see the original hone marks in the cylinders. We didn't bore the block, however we did turn the crank .010-.010, and did a line bore. We set the clearances on the rods @ .0018, and the mains were set @ .0015. I replaced the front cover with a new GM one. I replaced the oil pump. When I got the engine running, I still only have about 12lbs of oil pressure @ idle when hot. This is with 10W-30 oil. So it's like I haven't even touched it. When I'm doing about 60MPH, my press is running around 45lbs. I no longer worry about my oil press at idle as long as it comes up when I rev the engine. Might be why GM didn't install an oil pressure gauge.
As far as blow by goes, all engines are going to have (some) blow by. The best thing to do would be a leak down test
.

 

[gnsrule]

My 86 was a 125k car that was suposed to be a low budget 2k reuse the original pistons thing too. The cylinders looked great too.
It got : Caps, girdle, JE's, ARP, etc. I blew the budget by a buck or two, but money well spent IMO.
Build for what you can afford to grow into, or you'll be building it twice.
Unfortunatly I didnt do a s2 then,thats my new project.

Good Luck

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

Sam, I'm not 100% sure what it is, but its got a Precision 44 with about 600 mi. on it and there is no oil on the new IC hoses. The oil psi I posted was with 10w30 Mobil 1

 

[tyrod]

150000+ miles, 30lb of boost, intake to oilpan stock other than Hemco and valve springs. 0w30 mobil 1, very little if any oil consumption. Tune is tight.

 

[TurboWE4]

Central Illinois engine work

Hi Tom Tom.. I live in the rural Morton area, so I'm not too far from where you are. My engine is currently tore down so I'm going through the same process you will be later this year. I already have all my parts on hand (most ordered from John's Performance).

I'm planning to take the block and parts to Mullvain Motorsports in East Peoria for align bore/hone, balance and short block assembly. They have done some work for me before on a Chevy small block, but this will be the first time I've had them work on my WE4 engine.

I went and talked to them a couple of weeks ago and they told me that they have worked on our engines before, so I feel pretty confident about them doing the work.

Giff

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

I've heard of some people having trouble finding decent engine shops around here. A fellow board member in Champaign had some difficulty getting good work done, and then he paid big time for it when they got it right. What happened to the good 'ol days of read-to-go crate motors?