Rebuild time, need bottom end advice

[fly89gta]

Ok, so the motor comes out in a few weeks and freshed up

My goal as of right now is mid 11's

What mods to the bottom end would be recommended? I was thinking billet caps on 2 and 3...anything else?

Mods will be some slightly worked TTA heads, 214-210 cam(somewhere around that) TE60 turbo, ATR 3'' DP and ext. wastegate MSD 50's big necks added to the intercooler...some other things that are irrelavent.

So, what should I do?

Thanks guys

also..is a TE60 turbo somewhat streetable with a 3K stall?

 

[fly89gta]

ok, someone answer me!!!!!!! lol

 

[TTA89]

Originally posted by fly89gta
ok, someone answer me!!!!!!! lol

Ok... Now what?

 

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by TTA89
Ok... Now what?

as always Mike you're such a wonderful help! lol j/k

Seriously though...any certain things I should do or have the machine shop do? I don't know much about the bottom ends of these motors...

 

[TTA89]

Originally posted by fly89gta
as always Mike you're such a wonderful help! lol j/k

Seriously though...any certain things I should do or have the machine shop do? I don't know much about the bottom ends of these motors...

Seriously though all I do is try to help people from spending tons of money to go slow but nobody usually listens... If I spend 10 min typing are you going to listen? Probably not

 

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by TTA89
Seriously though all I do is try to help people from spending tons of money to go slow but nobody usually listens... If I spend 10 min typing are you going to listen? Probably not

try me...

I'm asking for advice and help. If you're still hung up on my wanting to run decent times on pump gas get over it. It's already been proven you can run in the mid 11's on straight 94...I never said I wanted to go that fast on 94 because I won't be able to. I'd like mid 11's on alchy

If there are any precautionary measures I need to take on the bottom end please let me know.

Since you are Mr. Turbo Buick school me...tell me what is wrong with my combo....don't just sit there at type "Oh you won't listen anyway"

 

[postal]

TE60's and TE44's share the same exhaust wheel. They are also only like 2mm difference on the compressor wheels (60 vs 58). My nephew runs 2800 stall and has run both turbos. Ive riden in and drove the car with both turbos. I really think the only difference in spool up may be "in the head" because its too close to call.

As far as bottom end goes I would say go with a roller cam. Your goals are no where near needing a roller BUT and this is a serious BUT....... People are always having to take fresh motors apart because of the damn cams scrubbed a lobe. The right way to do this is to tear back into the motor and go all through it again. The metal from the lobe goes through every thing. It can wipe out bearings, turbos and such. Its a damn mess. ATR sells a few different billet roller cams for our cars for $895. Now thats a complete kit. Its cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, timing chain, nose gear ect. Now a regular cam looks alot cheaper at first because you mainly just see the price of the cam and lifters. Thats going to be like $250 to $300. But then you got to go buy the other stuff the price will be about doubled. $250 compared to $900 is a big difference but $500 or $600 to $900 isnt as bad. Now for the extra couple hundred you should get a motor that wont have to come apart after 2000 miles and you will get extra performance. My buddy DR Boost just went through the new motor wiped lobed deal. He now has a roller going into it. Its cost him crap loads of $$'s and hassels that could have been avoided from the begining. O'well atleast now that winters coming he should have his car back Of course he still may find other things that cam messed up hopefully not his $1100 turbo.

Jason

 

[postal]

I was just thinking. A HUGE number of people have installed regular cams and have had no problems. The list of guys who have had problems isnt as big but its very large. I personally have only three freinds who have put cams in thier motors. Two of them did reg cams and wiped a lobe. The one who didnt ran a roller.

Jason

 

[mark b]

I'd do those caps. That's what my builder recommended. You really don't need better caps on the other ones, it's kinda overkill. Since you need a line bore and stuff to do the caps, do it once, do it right IMHO. Also, ARP studs for the bottom end.

I'm no pro, but that's the standard non-girdle rebuild most people I know have done.

 

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by mark b
I'd do those caps. That's what my builder recommended. You really don't need better caps on the other ones, it's kinda overkill. Since you need a line bore and stuff to do the caps, do it once, do it right IMHO. Also, ARP studs for the bottom end.

I'm no pro, but that's the standard non-girdle rebuild most people I know have done.

that's what I was lookin for, thanks!

 

[fly89gta]

as far as the roller cam in concerned I'd LOVE to do one, it's a bit pricey though

 

[TTA89]

Originally posted by fly89gta
as far as the roller cam in concerned I'd LOVE to do one, it's a bit pricey though

Gotta pay to play..

Think about what it costs to tear the motor apart and replace the cam and lifters and whatever else goes when the cam wipes at 2000 miles.

 

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by TTA89
Gotta pay to play..

Think about what it costs to tear the motor apart and replace the cam and lifters and whatever else goes when the cam wipes at 2000 miles.

very true

 

[fly89gta]

the more I think about it the more I just might bite the bullet and go with a roller cam. Are those budget roller cam conversions any good? Just kidding.


So a few billet caps and APR studs should be ok right?

C'mon Mike, you told me you were gonna write a 10 minute explaination, I'm still waiting!!

I'll catch you on AIM over the weekend if I'm home

 

[mark b]

Just my personal opinion - call Jack Cotton and talk to him about what brand roller cam to buy. I just put a roller with caps and studs in my motor...

 

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by mark b
Just my personal opinion - call Jack Cotton and talk to him about what brand roller cam to buy. I just put a roller with caps and studs in my motor...

Mark, what is your setup and what are you goals?

 

[mark b]

My goal is to get my car together and running after waiting 3 years

That's my true goal, no BS..... but my goal was a car capable of making a high 10 1/4 but being a highway cruiser that can take on a vette.

The motor is a GN block, caps on the bottom, stock rods & crank, diamond forged pistons with coatings, ARP studs, Comp Cams roller (206 or 212... have to check again), TTA heads with bigger valves and stage III port/polish by GTP, ported intake, Accufab 70 mm t/b, 83lb injectors, Felpro and other stuff like Walbro fuel pump, Accufab regulator, RJC billet pulleys, etc.

Turbo will probably be a CPT-65 ball bearing but that may change. I have a custom made front mount I/C - used to have a custom made liquid I/C with dual fan-cooled heat exchangers and an ice tank in the trunk.

Stock TTA headers coated by Swain Technology, Terry Houston style custom downpipe that is being modified to run a Racegate, aftermarket exhaust (but forgot what the previous owner had... ATR I think... I know it's stainless).

Tranny was already redone when I bought it. Art Carr (the old Art Carr) 9" non-lockup TQ.

Ford 9" rear, Moser axles, stock gear ratio - removed a spool and replaced it with a posi.

Suspension is the John's Performance catalog Spohn rear arm, panhard rod, lower arms, KYB AGX shocks, custom made K-Member and front control arms, Global West subframe connectors... some other things I may be forgetting.

I guess that's the basics.....

 

[fly89gta]

holy sweet jesus lol

how much did the headwork run you?

 

[mark b]

Lets just say pick a number between 16 and 18 and add some zeroes on the end..... I wasn't happy about that one, believe me!
But I ended up with a set of really good flowing heads.

ps - gotta go for the weekend, but will catch up later....

 

[fly89gta]

thanks man!