Rebuilding a TH2004R. Is it possible....?

Imo

Hey thanks for that.
One thing... you say that 250psi is the goal. I've read that 275 is better but 300 is too much.
What would be a good range to shoot for and what parts help to achieve this, other than the PR spring?

240--250 is min. I have heard that around 300 you can blow fluid past the lip seals. 280 is what mine had when installed with the pink TCI spring. BTW, I believe this is a 700 trans spring.
 
This shows some Info on what can happen if the bushing moves forward. There's a Pic of the Seal retainer which does help.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/transmission-talk/283603-tranny-went-kaboom.html
I know there's a thread that shows where/how to stake the bushing but, I can't find it now.:mad:

I can't find it either but I did come across something that says the 690 pump body has a step in the bushing bore that the bush is seated against. Is this correct? My one's the 690 so I'm hoping so!
 
I can't find it either but I did come across something that says the 690 pump body has a step in the bushing bore that the bush is seated against. Is this correct? My one's the 690 so I'm hoping so!

Yes, the 690 should have the Step and pressure relief groove in front. So no staking or relief cut is needed.
 
Oil feed to pump.

It sounds like the oil pump is sorted then but what about the oil supply to it?

Should I be looking to change to a bottom feed filter or what is typical here?
 
It sounds like the oil pump is sorted then but what about the oil supply to it?

Should I be looking to change to a bottom feed filter or what is typical here?

Most use the 700R4 filter as it's a bottom feed.
You can do it several ways, use a Deep Pan, CK has a Pan spacer kit, or trim the Signal oil pipe 1/4" so it doesn't interfere with the filter & trim Filter neck to use stock pan.
Some Deep pan Info here about 3/4 way down page>> THM 200-4R
There's thread somewhere about trimming pipe & filter.>> http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tr...004r-filter-trick.html?highlight=700R4+filter
More>>>> http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2091516
 
Most use the 700R4 filter as it's a bottom feed.
You can do it several ways, use a Deep Pan, CK has a Pan spacer kit, or trim the Signal oil pipe 1/4" so it doesn't interfere with the filter & trim Filter neck to use stock pan.
Some Deep pan Info here about 3/4 way down page>> THM 200-4R
There's thread somewhere about trimming pipe & filter.>> http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tr...004r-filter-trick.html?highlight=700R4+filter
More>>>> http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2091516

LOL! Lots of info there. :redface: I should have searched like you have for me instead of being lazy! Thanks :biggrin:
 
I've just pulled the sump off the trans to see what the valve body is. It looks nice and clean in there, the oil's in good nick too and there's very little metal at the magnet.

The VB's a KC4. Comments?
 
There are a few threads about using the KC Vbody for higher rpm shifts. CK, Jakeshoe, Bison etc.. have Info. I think they combined it with BR & CZ code Governors + changed a spring in VB.
 
I did search for threads but only found a couple by Jake. I did see that he got higher shifts with the right governor.
Thanks again.
 
Thanks!

Good Info hear!

Yep. It's great to see a lot of knowledgeable people sharing good tech advise so the rest of us can enjoy this hobby to the max!

I'll post some pics soon as I have a bit of light scoring in the pump pocket.
 
If there is any ridges dug into it then dont use it. Ridges...like will hang your fingernail up when dragging across it.

Heres a link to Sonnax that has alot of parts for the 200 as well if you re looking.

Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: High Performance Transmission :: General Motors :: 200-4R


Here is the info on the pump rings and slide spring I mentioned from Trans GO

http://transgo.com/tough_stuff.php

Trans Go Part # 700 PKH

Hi-Rev THM 700R4, 4L60E THM 2004R81-up

NoYoYo hardened steel pump rings and priming springs.
Fits 700R4, 4L60E and 2004R with engines above 5400 rpm.

Good shift kit thats a good bang for the buck is the California Performance Trans high tech valve body kit. If you orderit from them then get the .500 boost valve at the same time.

12001 - TH-200 4R Hi-Tech Lock Up Valve Body Kit


Heat treated stator support tube, Good pump (tweaked with goods as mentioned), shift kit, Billet shaft forward drum, Dual fed directs, 6 directs (good frictions), good band, stock GN servo, 3 clutch OD (apply ring cut to compensate for extra friction).

Just to recap... The above mentioned mods will last for years (granted fluid cooled and maint properly) will last for several years/10 's of thousands of miles in a 3500ish lb car running mid -high 11's.

Keep us in the loop on the trans

Cheers
 
If there is any ridges dug into it then dont use it. Ridges...like will hang your fingernail up when dragging across it.

Heres a link to Sonnax that has alot of parts for the 200 as well if you re looking.

Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: High Performance Transmission :: General Motors :: 200-4R


Here is the info on the pump rings and slide spring I mentioned from Trans GO

Tough Stuff

Trans Go Part # 700 PKH

Hi-Rev THM 700R4, 4L60E THM 2004R81-up

NoYoYo hardened steel pump rings and priming springs.
Fits 700R4, 4L60E and 2004R with engines above 5400 rpm.

Good shift kit thats a good bang for the buck is the California Performance Trans high tech valve body kit. If you orderit from them then get the .500 boost valve at the same time.

12001 - TH-200 4R Hi-Tech Lock Up Valve Body Kit


Heat treated stator support tube, Good pump (tweaked with goods as mentioned), shift kit, Billet shaft forward drum, Dual fed directs, 6 directs (good frictions), good band, stock GN servo, 3 clutch OD (apply ring cut to compensate for extra friction).

Just to recap... The above mentioned mods will last for years (granted fluid cooled and maint properly) will last for several years/10 's of thousands of miles in a 3500ish lb car running mid -high 11's.

Keep us in the loop on the trans

Cheers

Thanks for the valuable info provided and the links to the performance parts. Your freely given help and advise is greatly appreciated, all of you! This is the reason there are so many members here and I bet many, like me, don't have a Turbo Buick but are members here because of the quality of advice and information that’s available.

I'll keep you in the loop and soon as I get back into it. I'm currently consumed with house renovations then I've got a TH400 in bits that I've got to have ready for a guy ASAP.

That brings up another question. When rebuilding a trans the worst and most time consuming bit is cleaning everything. It's a PITA! I currently use a solvent and wash the parts in it then spray them with more solvent then air dry them with compressed air. Messy and slow but the parts are nice and clean when finished.

What do you guys use to ease this chore?
 
I've never done transmission parts, but I have been known to run some car parts through the dishwasher . . .
 
Your right it is very time consuming cleaning everything.

Parts washer and time is the best way.
 
Ya know what,
I'm going to tell some tricks...

200-4R VB.

You DON'T need a BR, BQ, CZ, CQ, OZ, or other VB.
There are better options anyway.

You WILL spend some time working with governor calibrations to get desired shift points. I'll leave that to the motivated to learn like I did.

VB mods.

Drill the 2nd feed hole .093-.125" depending on servo, accum mods, etc.
Drill the 3rd feed .125-.140.
4th feed to .096 maximum.

Remove the line bias spring, install it in the accumulator valve.
Install a 700-R4 3-4 return spring in the line bias or otherwise block it.
Install a .500 boost valve, pink 700-R4 pressure regulator spring, and larger reverse boost valve.

Use a GN or billet servo.

I use commonly available 700-R4 accumulator springs for the 1-2 and 3-4 accum and calibration depends on the unit but usually I use white.

You will use 5 checkballs in the case.
Rule of thumb on a 200-4R. If it's a bathtub it gets a checkball always.
There are 4 in a line from front to rear. 2 small checkball locations and 2 bathtubs, install in the bathtubs, leave out of the small locations (3rd accum and 3-2 )

That's it. 600+ HP proven with dual feed and proper hard parts.
Bless You!
 
I've never done transmission parts, but I have been known to run some car parts through the dishwasher . . .

LOL! I thought about doing just that but was concerned about two things:
Will the parts start to get surface rust, and
What the heck to I tell the wife when she catches me? ;) LOL
 
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