Relocated MAF runs better hands down.

GS70350

Round Headlights.Like em?
My stock MAF went south on me about a month ago so I purchased a used translator and 3" LT1 MAF sensor from Jack Cotton and installed it this past weekend in the typical location. Im using a turbotweak chip at the moment.

It ran much better with a new MAF sensor first of all, however the BLMs were down in the 115 range at idle, and in the mid to high 130s in the upper number cells, so the tune was off.

I relocated the sensor to just after the intercooler, mounting it right at the outlet of the powerstroke and then using my 3 to 2.5 reducer after the MAF to go back into a 2.5 inch pipe. I then installed the air filter on the end of the MAF pipe instead of using the 3 inch pipe i had used for a cold air induction system with the filter behind the front air dam.

So far the BLMs are more consistent between 125 at idle and 133 in the highest cell. Cell 3 is still down at 113, but it seems to be used mostly for off throttle coasting below 45mph so no biggie.

The car runs smoother with the MAF sensor relocated at all RPMs. It spools up faster than before, and when letting off the throttle it produces a quick high pitched single sneeze. Before i relocated the sensor and the air filter, the sneeze was drawn out and would last a few seconds with more of a choo, choo, choo, choo, choo, choo, choooo, sound, also resulting in a stumble of the engine and a noticeable buck of the vehicle until the airflow settled.

That is completely eliminated and it runs super smooth.

The MAF numbers now hit 255 and do not change until the throttle is lifted. Before they would reach 255, and periodically drop to 240-250s during the run. I dont know if this was airflow disturbances in the MAF pipe before the turbo, or an actual change in airflow, but it definately returns much more consistent readings when installed after the turbo.

It didnt cost anything, i made it work with the pipes and hoses i had on the setup already, and eliminated one hose and pipe in the process shortening the intake tract by over a foot. Took about an hour and a half, definately worth trying if you have the chance. I wont be switching back.
 
What all do you have to have with the Maft pro to run mafless? Just the maft pro or what? Will my current TT chips work with the settup or do I have to get extender chips?
 
So after reading the site... All I need is a 3 bar map sensor to go along with the maft pro to run maftless correct? Also with the unit I can adjust wot fueling in various rpm ranges along with boost? Cool ... I gotta get me one of these eventually, although I have no ideal where the heck I'm gonna put it. :D
 
GS70350 said:
I relocated the sensor to just after the intercooler, mounting it right at the outlet of the powerstroke and then using my 3 to 2.5 reducer after the MAF to go back into a 2.5 inch pipe. I then installed the air filter on the end of the MAF pipe instead of using the 3 inch pipe i had used for a cold air induction system with the filter behind the front air dam.

The car runs smoother with the MAF sensor relocated at all RPMs.

The MAF numbers now hit 255 and do not change until the throttle is lifted. Before they would reach 255, and periodically drop to 240-250s during the run. I dont know if this was airflow disturbances in the MAF pipe before the turbo, or an actual change in airflow, but it definately returns much more consistent readings when installed after the turbo.

I'll never understand why more people haven't done it.

Yep, the airflow past the sensor is alot less turbulent, so the sensor reads the air flow more accuretly, at least in theory, and it seems to work out that way in practice.

If at some point you got to the late large MAF sensor (5 wire), then you can have your chip guy fill in the IAT timing correction, and have the car run it's best hot or cold. Most already know that with the Translators, you can write out the IAT Fueling table since it's not needed with the later MATs.
 
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