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Removing door crash bars...

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J Banning

Quench my thirst with C16
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
2,032
Anyone have pictures (or links to pictures) of factory doors that have been lightened up by removing the crash bars?

Thanks.
 
How involved is it? I've had my door pannels off before, but never looked at it in detail.

How much of a reduction did you see?

Would you recommend doing it (I have a 6 point bar in the car now)?
 
A guy in town has a stage2 with nothin in his doors. Just metal covering his rollbar makes it out as a GN ;)

He welded his doors to the panels on both sides so it looks like 1 big metal chunk of fastness.
 
Originally posted by J Banning
How involved is it? I've had my door pannels off before, but never looked at it in detail.

How much of a reduction did you see?

Would you recommend doing it (I have a 6 point bar in the car now)?

Oh, it's pretty involved. More time consuming than anything if you don't want to "hack it". The bar is a double sided stamped piece that is spot-welded together, then welded in between the inner & outer door halves......oh and it's also glued to the outer door skin:rolleyes:
In a nutshell: You cut the bar (hinge end) with either a cutoff wheel or plasma cutter, taking care not to muss up the outer door skin. On the other end you cut a rectangular piece (near the latch) bigger than the crash bar itself. At this point the bar is only attached by the glue/foam on the outer door skin. I used a heat gun & kept moving the bar till it loosened up. Now you pull the whole bar out of the door, seperate the rectangle from the bar (by drilling out the spot welds) & weld piece back into the door.

Approx. 38 lbs a door (measured with high tech Sears scale)

I wouldn't do it if it was a "Mint car", the heat may mess up paint, etc., but in an all-out type race/street car I would;)

Now the door's shut fast & with ease, just don't lean against them.....or you'll hear a pop:eek:
 
On the other end you cut a rectangular piece (near the latch) bigger than the crash bar itself. At this point the bar is only attached by the glue/foam on the outer door skin. I used a heat gun & kept moving the bar till it loosened up. Now you pull the whole bar out of the door, seperate the rectangle from the bar (by drilling out the spot welds) & weld piece back into the door.

Approx. 38 lbs a door (measured with high tech Sears scale)

I wouldn't do it if it was a "Mint car", the heat may mess up paint, etc., but in an all-out type race/street car I would;)

Now the door's shut fast & with ease, just don't lean against them.....or you'll hear a pop:eek:[/QUOTE]
Doe's anyone have any pictures on how to do this? I'm very interested!!! THANKS
 
It is a much easier job if the doors are off the car. I just drilled out the spot welds on the latch end of the door, then cut a hole in the hinge end of the door big enough to slide the carsh bar out.
 
Talk about old post !

Its about 38 lbs total not a piece.. I did this project about 3 years ago and documented it here. The pics have been lost from my yahho account. I weighed the bars to be about 16 lbs a piece.

Cals way is a cleaner removal but the door has to be off the car.
 
Louie; I remember your pictures and procedure very well. (VERY DETAILED) do you have ANY pictures at all? THANKS :) :)
 
When did crash bars start being required in cars? Call me a fool but I'd like to add some to my cageless '65 Riviera if it doesn't have them, which I assume it doesn't. Are they not much more than some mild steel tube welded to the door end plates?

Thanks,
 
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