Removing Driveshaft to install loop, what to upgrade?

[V6UnderPressure]

I'm removing the driveshaft to install the driveshaft loop and wondered if I should upgrade the yokes & u-joints while I have it out. If so, what part numbers do I need to look for? FYI, it is a stock driveshaft.

 

[theCATman]

I just did this myself.

I went with NAPA Super Heavy Duty. They are non-greasable, but that's what I wanted. Greasable U-joints are weaker because of having the holes drilled for the zerks. The difference might not be huge, but to me it's worth it.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

BAck from the dead, getting ready to do this. Are there any performance parts from Summit or anything that I can make my driveshaft stronger??? I guess part numbers would help, but what to replace while its out would be good too!

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Just get a complete assembled driveshaft from Dennys! http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c49_grand_national.html

I have bought two from them and they were perfect.

 

[Beast_TR]

Just get a complete assembled driveshaft from Dennys! http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c49_grand_national.html

I have bought two from them and they were perfect.

+1

The last thing you want is a driveshaft to break on you, ask me how I know .

If you notice any kind of vibration after messing with the driveshaft have it checked out immediately.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

I went to a local driveline shop and had a new one made, 3" with 1350 yokes, brute force ujoints. It was around $360. Price varies a little depending on which slip yoke you choose for the trans/rear end. If I were you I would bite the bullet and get a new one, the stocker will fail on you eventually, I had my stocker fail on me at the track...not fun but could have been alot worse.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

I am assuming the steel shaft would be stronger than aluminum, but are there any benefits to running aluminum besides shaving rotating weight? Would it really generate that much of a performance difference?

 

[theCATman]

I am assuming the steel shaft would be stronger than aluminum, but are there any benefits to running aluminum besides shaving rotating weight? Would it really generate that much of a performance difference?

Aluminum shafts are larger in circumference than steel ones, so no weaker. Stronger really IMO.

Remember, every 10 lbs in rotating is roughly 100 lbs static. So in theory, an aluminum shaft should be worth .05-.10 Is it worth it for a street car, not really. But if I had a dedicated track car, it would have an aluminum driveshaft for sure.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Aluminum shafts are larger in circumference than steel ones, so no weaker. Stronger really IMO.

Remember, every 10 lbs in rotating is roughly 100 lbs static. So in theory, an aluminum shaft should be worth .05-.10 Is it worth it for a street car, not really. But if I had a dedicated track car, it would have an aluminum driveshaft for sure.

Well, it will be a 99% street car. That is why I am wondering if I should go with aluminum or steel.

 

[G NASTY]

IMO it can't hurt a street car and the price is about the same for alum.