You can type here any text you want

?--replacing an 85 eng. harness with an 87

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Lee Thompson

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
3,184
Is this a straight swap? Are the wires in the same place on both harness, especially at the fire wall opposite the fuse block? Thanks
 
Yes, they will plug right in, does the 85 have the power master or the hydroboost? if it has the hydroboost, you may, I am not sure, if the fuse box has the 30amp output for the powermaster. If it has the powermaster then just plug the 87 harness and go.

HTH

Prasad
 
Just did a conversion. I opted for Vac. brakes but the powermaster would only be a matter of adding a fuse and a hot wire. I thought SOME late 85 cars had a powermaser??? The only other thing you have to do electrically is add a power wire to the electric fan relays. EVERYTHING else works, dash,tcc,SES light etc....
 
EightSecV6 said:
Just did a conversion. I opted for Vac. brakes but the powermaster would only be a matter of adding a fuse and a hot wire. I thought SOME late 85 cars had a powermaser??? The only other thing you have to do electrically is add a power wire to the electric fan relays. EVERYTHING else works, dash,tcc,SES light etc....

Yep, some of the late 85 did come with the powermaster, that is exactly what we did, just added a fused line for the power master,as well has the fan relays

ps, check the dash volt bulb, sometimes, make sure it has the right one and a good bulb because the alternator needs the feed back from the dash to keep regulating the charge. If the bulb is not good it will not charge. Once the car fires up check the voltage to make sure it's charging.

HTH
Prasad
 
Engine harness

Do you only remove the inner plastic fender to get to the wiring by the ECM?
I hope you don't have to remove the outer fender I don't want to scratch the paint!!
 
Yes

Yes, years ago I bought the top and front of an eng. (brackets and pullys) from a friend who was parting a car out, just never got around to doing it.
This is my plan
274 off center S-II
Champion 14 bolt heads
Ford front mount
Limit 70 GTQ turbo
ME-R
218--224 billet roller
I would like to run 10.20--10.30 @ less than 26 psi.
And still drive my car.
Bill, while I have your attention, the 218-224 hyd. that I am currently running, what about putting solid rollers on it?
Thanks--Lee
 
You can remove the connections tot he CPU and push them through the firewall without removing the inner fender. Have one person gently pull on the harness from above and another position it so it will slide up the inner fender. It helps to tape all the connector together so they dont snag. To get the new one in, tap them together and run a coat hanger from the hole in the firewall up to the engine compartment. Just patiently pull the harness down until the connector come through the hole. Put some vasaline on the rubber grommet and pull it through. Your done. The whle process takes maybe 5 minutes. A lot faster than removing the inner fender and as long as you are careful, everything is ok. I did it on my car, twice.
 
harness

Great idea and so much easier than removing the fenders
Thanks
 
conn84gn said:
Great idea and so much easier than removing the fenders
Thanks

No problem. I just swapped my 84 hot air motor for a production 4.1 and intercooled set-up. After I pulled the motor and everything else the LAST thing I wanted to do was pull the inner fender. That when I had the idea nd it worked beautifully.
 
Lee Thompson said:
Yes, years ago I bought the top and front of an eng. (brackets and pullys) from a friend who was parting a car out, just never got around to doing it.
This is my plan
274 off center S-II
Champion 14 bolt heads
Ford front mount
Limit 70 GTQ turbo
ME-R
218--224 billet roller
I would like to run 10.20--10.30 @ less than 26 psi.
And still drive my car.
Bill, while I have your attention, the 218-224 hyd. that I am currently running, what about putting solid rollers on it?
Thanks--Lee


I am sure it is a billet cam, if it has solid lifter syle lobes,I would think you would gain a considerable amount of power, if it has the hyd style lobe on it, you probably wont gain anything except the benefit of a lighter lifter. look at the serial number (if it is a comp) and see if it is an "r" or "hr"
 
sure

I know it is a billet Comp hyd. roller. I have hyd. rollers on it now. Just wondering if I would be better off with solids. And will it still work OK.
 
Harness

I have the engine out of the car now and I was just wondering if I should put the harness in first or put the harness on the engine and then put it in
 
conn84gn said:
I have the engine out of the car now and I was just wondering if I should put the harness in first or put the harness on the engine and then put it in

put the harness in first.
 
Harness

When I removed the harness from the 87 I had removed the fenders and the two screws that hold the rubber gromit to the fire wall.
The gromit is very tight on the harness unless you cut the rubber gromit I don't see how the wiring will fit through?
 
conn84gn said:
When I removed the harness from the 87 I had removed the fenders and the two screws that hold the rubber gromit to the fire wall.
The gromit is very tight on the harness unless you cut the rubber gromit I don't see how the wiring will fit through?

take the grommet out of the firewall
 
Back
Top