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Replacing IAC valve - Procedure?

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84GNwith87eng

Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
649
Is there a procedure to replacing the IAC valve? Should I just shut the car off, take old out, put new in, and tune it via scanmaster?

Don't want my idle to be WAY off when the new one goes in... :rolleyes:
 
Remove the old IAC. The pintle on the new IAC should be retracted. Don't push on the pintle head or try to force it to retract. Install the new IAC and fire the engine up. Once the engine is at normal operating temps and in closed loop, set the IAC counts (using a scan tool) to 20, with the TPS set between 0.40-0.46 volts at idle.
 
Yes, that pintle needs to be pulled out so that you can be sure it's seated when its installed, but there is a better way. Screw the pintle in all the way and install it. Then do the IAC reset procedure on gnttype.org.

IAC reset procedure

There are 2 pins you jump with a paper clip on the ALDL connector. When you jump these pins, voltage is sent to the IAC motor, and the pintle screws itself out till it seats on the passage hole. They dont tell you that this is what happens in that article, but I found it out when I did it. I actually had the IAC out, jumped the pins and saw what happens. The pintle screwed itself completely out and I had to screw it back in by hand. Guess I have to understand the "why's" and "hows" of everything. :rolleyes: If you dont do it this way, you can damage the motor. Unscrewing the pintle till it sticks way out, and then forcing it in when you screw the new IAC on is what damages it, or can damage it.
 
I would think that the pintle needs to be fully retracted prior to installation (and a new one probably is from the manufacturer). You don't want to screw the new IAC on to the throttle body and force the pintle against the sealing surface (that would probably damage the IAC). The minimum idle set screw is used to adjust the throttle blade for the correct IAC setting. If you install the IAC and do not disturb the set screw, the engine should fire, based on the previous settings of the IAC you just replaced. Once the engine is at operating temps and in closed loop, you can fine tune the IAC setting. If you do not have a scan tool, then you can follow the procedure from VadersV6 post.
 
What? If you fully retract it and then screw the IAC motor on, the pintle will be forced to screw in against a very high gear ratio (stepper motor), which can damage things in a hurry. Maybe we misunderstand each other in terms of what "retracted" means. I mean you turn it all the way in by hand so the assembly is as "short" as it can be. You turn it all the way in so it doesnt interfere with anything. Then you jump those ALDL pins, (without starting your engine) and the computer will drive the pintle forward until it seats, and will then sense that it has bottomed out, and will stop sending voltage to it. The computer now knows the position of this motor, logs the position, zeros it out, and uses that zero point to know where the pintle is. The number you see on your scan tool, like "25", means the stepper motor has stepped out 25 increments. Pulling the pintle all the way out and then screwing the whole assembly into the TB will put alot of pressure on that pintle, and all the gears inside that will have to spin backward. I deal with stepper motors here at work all the time and know what never to do to them. You never force them to spin by hand in a direction that could damage the gear assembly. These IAC's fortunately are designed so that they can be rotated inward without putting force on the gears.
Ive read people on here calling the TPS sensor a stepper motor. Dont know why they would say that. The TPS is a rotary encoder (another thing I deal with in our designs and products). Encoders usually use a quadrature signal to determine position.
 
My version of retract is that the pintle is close to the body of the IAC valve and not fully extended. I think we are saying the same thing. For me, if the pintle is fully extented, then the pintle has moved out away from the IAC.
 
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