replacing the fuel filter

[oc192]

Need help replacing the fuel filter. Can't get this thing to budge even after spraying some pb blaster on there. The bolts on the fuel filter do not spin, they are welded to the body of the filter itself. Are the bolts on the fuel lines suppose to spin or are they welded as well? Are you suppose to grab the whole filter and spin it loose or use a wrench on the fuel line bolts?

Thanks for any tips

 

[oc192]

yay, youtube for the win . Got one side cracked, will try the other side after the pb blaster sets in

 

["Turbo-T"]

I used an open end wrench on the filter end and another open end on the fitting for the fuel line...although a line wrench is a much better choice for the line fittings.

Mine came off w/o too much trouble....also make sure you have depressurized the fuel line....push on the shroeder valve at the end of the fuel rail and don't turn on the fuel pump until you're done or it'll repressurize and you'll have to do it all over again.

 

[oc192]

Yeah, before I messed with the filter I ran the car, unplugged the connection by the bumper and waited for it to die. Then I turned the schrader valve to release the pressure on the fuel rail.

Just to be sure, when putting the new one on, the arrow points to the front of the car right?

here is the nastiness

 

["Turbo-T"]

Damn brother. Is that liquid rust from the PB blaster? or is that actual fuel with rust in it?

Yes the arrow is the flow of fuel aka from pump to engine.

 

[oc192]

I believe the fuel coming out of the lines was pretty clear, the stuff that came out of the filter was definitely rust colored. When I depressurize the fuel rail, the fuel that comes out of there is clear. There is another thread discussing fuel tanks and the one is cheap enough I just may get a new fuel tank as well.

Thanks for your help

 

[TurboBuRick]

Thats dirty.

 

[chopped39]

If that rust stuff came out of the filter get ready for the fuel pump to stretch its legs and relax:biggrin:

 

[oc192]

Do you guys use any kind of teflon on the threads or just bolt it in and call it a day?

 

[TurboBuRick]

There are o-rings that are suppose to be on the ends of the lines. No tef tape needed.

 

[oc192]

Hmm, I didn't notice any o-rings when took the fuel lines off. I'll double check to make sure. If I have to run to the auto store, what size rings would they be? Can you use teflon tape or liquid teflon in place of o-rings?

 

[TurboBuRick]

3/8 on the filter lines. They are a tad more skinny than normal o-rings. Try and find one of the old ones to match it up. Any auto parts store should ave them. Get a few extra.

 

[scojack_2001]

I just did mine on my 86 and saw no o-rings. A tip for the install, get the lines started in the filter before you bolt the bracket back up. Makes it easier to work with. Car should run better with the new filter!

 

[oc192]

I just did mine on my 86 and saw no o-rings. A tip for the install, get the lines started in the filter before you bolt the bracket back up. Makes it easier to work with. Car should run better with the new filter!

Hey Scojack, thats the approach I used. Mine had o-rings on the end of the fuel line where it tapers down. Well its back on, I would say it runs a little smoother but still starved when I get into it. I was trying to do this with the car on the ground, what a PITA that was so I went ahead and bought a floor jack and stands, made it a ton easier.

 

[Turbo-Archie]

Funny, I've seen people say how "easy" it is to replace the filter in 5 min but every now and then you get one like this.. Not 5min..




..

 

[38turbo]

:biggrin:!!ANTISIEZE!!:biggrin:

 

[scojack_2001]

Hey Scojack, thats the approach I used. Mine had o-rings on the end of the fuel line where it tapers down. Well its back on, I would say it runs a little smoother but still starved when I get into it. I was trying to do this with the car on the ground, what a PITA that was so I went ahead and bought a floor jack and stands, made it a ton easier.

Mine was even easier, I did it on a lift... But stands will work too.

As for the fuel starvation, the pump is most likey done. All that time with a plugged filter probably burned the pump up. Get a new Walbro and a hotwire kit and have a nice day.

Hope this helps!

 

[booyah11]

Posting for the Hot Air crowd, filter is not by the frame rail it is in the front of the engine behind the fan on the driver's side:

If yours is a rusty old POS like mine then make sure to get a couple GM fuel line repair kits. I used a generic GM repair kit Dorman 800-153.

Because the filter is upright, moisture will just pool on the top make removal impossible.

I PB Blastered it for three days twice a day, used the correct 5/8" flare nut wrench and still ended up cutting the damn thing out. Fortunately the repair kits come with a compression coupling and are more than long enough to replace the section you cut out.

To prevent the threads from seizing up again use some PermaTex with PTFE, it is gasoline safe and stays softish so the next time you need to replace the filter you won't have to be pissed off for three days...

**quick tip** save yourself some time and remove the radiator/fan shroud. There are no awards for least number of parts removed.

 

[87geeinn]

Because the filter is upright, moisture will just pool on the top make removal impossible.

I would take one look at that and nope the fuck out of there in a hurry. That thing might as well have been welded in at the assembly line.