Return Fuel Line - Replacing Small Section Around Downpipe

[wilkinsde]

Based on some reading I've done on the forum the return fuel line drops down right next to the downpipe. My car has an after-market downpipe that over time has rubbed a hole in the return line. For those of you that have experienced this problem, would it be okay to splice into the line using a compression fitting, replacing with a section of steel braided line all the way to the fuel regulator? (I'm assuming the line comes from the regulator?) Also, what would be a better routing for the line as it is such a tight fit where currently located next to the downpipe? Thank you for any advice.

 

[turbo87adam]

Not sure what year turbo Regal you have? The 86/87 turbo regals have the supply and return line that runs down the drivers side of the motor and connects to the main body fuel lines on the drivers side where they poke thru the frame. I'm not sure how the older years are run so if that's the case someone else may be able to help.

 

[wilkinsde]

It is an '87 GN. The posts I've read seem to be somewhat conflicting where the return line is located. As you've pointed out there could be differing locations. I'm sure it is gasoline that is coming out of a fuel line and spraying on the downpipe. Thanks for the reply.

 

[turbo87adam]

Maybe post a pic if possible?

 

[ttribejr]

It runs straight down from the fuel pressure regulator (between the alternator/ac compressor and the engine block. nowhere near the downpipe. It then goes behind the motor in the form of a metal line. I cant remember for sure, but the metal line may cross back to the passenger side near the bottom of the downpipe. But its metal, not rubber. Unless somebody at some point ran a larger rubber return line on your car.

 

[wilkinsde]

I will try to get a picture tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Backndagame]

1987 t return line and vent to charcoal canister pas frame rail ,runs across engine cross member to dvr frame rail in engine compartment to timing cover up to dvr side rail. Fuel fuel runs dvr side rail thru frame to dvr side engine compartment to timing cover behind cam sensor to pas rail.

 

[The Granny]

I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that the OP is talking about. This is how my car is with TA Headers, and I was wondering the same thing, how I I should go about avoiding this. For the time being I just used a small strip of heat wrap like the one I attached

and zip tied it around the fuel line on sections that were as far away from the header as possible so the zip ties won't melt off. I think I used 2-3 of these strips in between the line and the header. This is the passenger side btw. Haven't had any issues since I did this, but then again I've only driven my car on the street so the exhaust temps haven't gotten too high to really put it to the test. I do plan on rerouting the as that's the right thing to do but this should suffice for now

 

[Backndagame]

1987 t return line and vent to charcoal canister pas frame rail ,runs across engine cross member to dvr frame rail in engine compartment to timing cover up to dvr side rail. Fuel feed runs dvr side rail thru frame to dvr side engine compartment to timing cover behind cam sensor to pas rail.

 

[ttribejr]

I jumped the gun on my reply. I thought you said "rubber" return line by the downpipe. I just noticed you said "rubbed". My apologies.

If you aren't using your charcoal canister, you can run your return through that line. Just make sure to cross the line correctly at the gas tank.

 

[wilkinsde]

View attachment 300829View attachment 300830View attachment 300831
I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that the OP is talking about. This is how my car is with TA Headers, and I was wondering the same thing, how I I should go about avoiding this. For the time being I just used a small strip of heat wrap like the one I attached View attachment 300832 and zip tied it around the fuel line on sections that were as far away from the header as possible so the zip ties won't melt off. I think I used 2-3 of these strips in between the line and the header. This is the passenger side btw. Haven't had any issues since I did this, but then again I've only driven my car on the street so the exhaust temps haven't gotten too high to really put it to the test. I do plan on rerouting the as that's the right thing to do but this should suffice for now

You are correct. Your picture indicates exactly the area of concern. Although with my car the damage has already been done. I'm lucky it didn't catch fire. I just need to figure out a way to replace that section or re-route the line.

 

[wilkinsde]

I jumped the gun on my reply. I thought you said "rubber" return line by the downpipe. I just noticed you said "rubbed". My apologies.

If you aren't using your charcoal canister, you can run your return through that line. Just make sure to cross the line correctly at the gas tank.

No problem. Can you explain a little further about the charcoal canister and the line routing. Thanks.

 

[ttribejr]

It is a common, cheap/easy modification. I did it on my car because I could not get my static fuel pressure below 50psi. The vent line is 5/16 vs 1/4 on the oem return line. If you follow your fuel return line down from the regulator, you will see a fitting at the bottom of the motor. I cut that fitting off. Then, right behind the driver side headlamp, there is a metal line pointed straight up (i think on the frame rail. It goes to the charcoal canister (if you still have it). I ran a rubber line from the return where I cut it off to that vent line that went to the canister.

Next, drop your gas tank and remove run the rubber line from the (previsouly vent) to the return port on the fuel hanger. You now have a less restrictive return line. I can take a picture this weekend if it helps you. PM me your cell.