ride of shame...

[ryan george]

Agreed relay problem..

Finally got the relay in. Unfortunately, not the problem. Same situation, can crank and crank and crank, no fuel pressure. Pump still doesn't run with initial key on.

 

[ravege]

I read your first post, you checked fp immediately after dying and had zero? That sounds like fuel pump because if it were anything else there should still be *some* pressure there. Also, if you use the test lead to energize the pump, you can see fp build up and hold? Can you start the car then?

 

[ryan george]

I read your first post, you checked fp immediately after dying and had zero? That sounds like fuel pump because if it were anything else there should still be *some* pressure there. Also, if you use the test lead to energize the pump, you can see fp build up and hold? Can you start the car then?

Very shortly after dying, and yes, zero. I need to recheck to see if fp builds, I can't remember to be honest, but I do remember hearing the pump run with the test lead. Wife's bday today, so couldn't do anything other than replace the relay. Will check in the morning and report back (few days of vacation). Thx.

 

[ravege]

There is also a Buick diagram out there which has the fuel pump and the relay next to it (A/C?) reversed. Make darn sure you replaced the correct one.

 

[ryan george]

I read your first post, you checked fp immediately after dying and had zero? That sounds like fuel pump because if it were anything else there should still be *some* pressure there. Also, if you use the test lead to energize the pump, you can see fp build up and hold? Can you start the car then?

Using the test lead, it barely builds fuel pressure. Fuel pump is running. No start. Yes, replaced correct relay.

 

[ryan george]

try unplugging the hotwire harness and bypassing it at the tank..i had a wire rub in my kit and the car would shut off while driving and wouldnt restart..repaired it and good to go

Ok, unplugged the harness and reconnected to original. Didn't change the situation. I would assume that would mean the hotwire kit is not the issue.

 

[ravege]

Unless your regulator is letting every drop of fuel through it and not allowing pressure to build, sounds like pump is the culprit. I would think a pinch/kink in the fuel line would still allow pressure to build, though slowly (and with engine off, of course).

 

[ryan george]

Unless your regulator is letting every drop of fuel through it and not allowing pressure to build, sounds like pump is the culprit. I would think a pinch/kink in the fuel line would still allow pressure to build, though slowly (and with engine off, of course).

I really hope not. Battery is about dead, so couldn't crank on it too much, so recharging at the moment. I'll relook at all connections, fuses, etc. The fuel pump troubleshooting on the Vortex website points to the relay or fuse. Ugh.

 

[Slow91z]

Unless your regulator is letting every drop of fuel through it and not allowing pressure to build, sounds like pump is the culprit. I would think a pinch/kink in the fuel line would still allow pressure to build, though slowly (and with engine off, of course).

Even if the regualtor was wide open it would still build some pressure ...if the pump runs and you don't get pressure it's the pump.

 

[ryan george]

Even if the regualtor was wide open it would still build some pressure ...if the pump runs and you don't get pressure it's the pump.

Dang....I've replaced it twice, last time was last year. Took me forever both times to get the tank straps bolted back up (not just minutes). Also, the underside of the car is sprayed with cosmoline (sp?). Protects great, but everything just ends up a mess when I have to work on the underside the car.

 

[ravege]

Though hearing the pump spin up with the test lead, but not with key on, you could replace the pump and still have a wiring issue. You'd just be able to get full pressure with the test lead.

 

[HouTX87]

Correct me if I am wrong but even if the factory relay was bad wouldn't the oil pressure switch override it and then there would just be an extended crank? Doesn't sound like a problem with the factory relay.