RJC 5" W/ or W/o External gate?

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87we410877

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Messages
2,634
I am going to buy the RJC 5" DP and use it with either a 6768 or something close to that on my stage 2 build. I want to make about 8xx to the wheels which will be close to 1000 at the motor.

This may be a dumb question but is there an internal gate that will bolt right up or am i going to have to Fab up the external. Personally i feel like a nice external gate would be the way to go to handle the boost/flow.
 
The 5" pipe had a spacer with it that had an internal waste gate. I had one of his first cuts. It was awesome. Waay too much for my street car but wow.

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It was a v band spacer. It bolted to the turbine and then the pipe clamped to that.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Yea i understand that but what i'm getting at is, what can an internal actuator handle? At my power levels wouldn't i be better off with an external gate? If they are 6 of one half dozen the other, i'm all for the internal gate and saving some $. As long as it will work.
 
Only reason I didn't go with the 5" was cause my headers were already done and I didnt wanna go internal...Probably was too big for my setup any who but they truly are a thing of beauty.

If your car isn't done yet I would say go with the 5" and just have someone mock up the headers with a wastegate rather than slice into the dp.
 
At Your level the internal will work. The puck is huge so you can increase the diameter on the turbine.

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Couple things to note. That downpipe is made for a 3 bolt exh housing for your turbo. Unless your racing in a class that requires it. I would get a 4 bolt turbo with a external gate. It opens your target audience to more then just Buick guys when time comes to upgrade and the 4 bolt tan housing with a V-band clamp are better for sealing it with no pesky exh leaks round the housing, not to mention that you can fit a bigger exh wheel in a 4bolt housing then you could in a 3 bolt which will obviously make more power.

With that being said, I bought the same downpipe. It comes with the downpipe, adapter that bolts to the 3bolt exh housing and a V-band clamp. Because I opted for the 4 bolt turbo, I went to a chassis shop and had them fab up my system. They cut the V-band portion off of the adapter, and welded it to my existing V-band on my 4 bolt exh housing so I can bolt up this downpipe to my turbo. They then added the flange portion for my wastegate to my header, then routed it back into the downpipe.

By them doing this, I have changed the entire configeration of my downpipe. It doesn't run like a normal downpipe should. Meaning my 4"RJC exhaust had to be modified as well to line up and work properly. I have a lot of room to work with seeing as how I don't have a heater box in my car. If you retain the heater/AC I would advise you to keep to a 3 bolt turbo for exact fitting, because this downpipe is a super tight fit in the stock configeration.

Attached is the finished product of custom fabbing it to work with a 4bolt turbo.


 
Their internal gate on their 5" DP works great. The 4" test pipe is so big, it was bigger than the 4 bolt flange feeding my dual 3" exhaust. I think they did that on purpose so we could buy their 4" single exhaust. Haha!
 
Couple things to note. That downpipe is made for a 3 bolt exh housing for your turbo. Unless your racing in a class that requires it. I would get a 4 bolt turbo with a external gate. It opens your target audience to more then just Buick guys when time comes to upgrade and the 4 bolt tan housing with a V-band clamp are better for sealing it with no pesky exh leaks round the housing, not to mention that you can fit a bigger exh wheel in a 4bolt housing then you could in a 3 bolt which will obviously make more power.

With that being said, I bought the same downpipe. It comes with the downpipe, adapter that bolts to the 3bolt exh housing and a V-band clamp. Because I opted for the 4 bolt turbo, I went to a chassis shop and had them fab up my system. They cut the V-band portion off of the adapter, and welded it to my existing V-band on my 4 bolt exh housing so I can bolt up this downpipe to my turbo. They then added the flange portion for my wastegate to my header, then routed it back into the downpipe.

By them doing this, I have changed the entire configeration of my downpipe. It doesn't run like a normal downpipe should. Meaning my 4"RJC exhaust had to be modified as well to line up and work properly. I have a lot of room to work with seeing as how I don't have a heater box in my car. If you retain the heater/AC I would advise you to keep to a 3 bolt turbo for exact fitting, because this downpipe is a super tight fit in the stock configeration.

Attached is the finished product of custom fabbing it to work with a 4bolt turbo.



Well that looks nice. I am keeping the 3 bolt turbo and definitely going with the 5" dp.

I really just need to know if I'm going to have problems at 25-30-35 lbs of boost on an internal gate. And where do I find one of these gates that can handle that?
 
The puck is big enough to keep your boost steady at those levels. Get a heavyduty stock style gate from Precision Turbo and you will be fine.
 
Thank you!!

I just removed my 5" RJC downpipe off of my car and going with a 3.5" ext gate DP. Nothing wrong with the 5", but I can't seem to get my A/C to work like it use to with a 3.5" DP.
If you're interested I want to sell the 5" as it has already been removed from the car and it has an O2 bung welded in as well.
 
I just removed my 5" RJC downpipe off of my car and going with a 3.5" ext gate DP. Nothing wrong with the 5", but I can't seem to get my A/C to work like it use to with a 3.5" DP.
If you're interested I want to sell the 5" as it has already been removed from the car and it has an O2 bung welded in as well.


If he's not interested. I maybe interested , how much ship to 10952
 
I just removed my 5" RJC downpipe off of my car and going with a 3.5" ext gate DP. Nothing wrong with the 5", but I can't seem to get my A/C to work like it use to with a 3.5" DP.
If you're interested I want to sell the 5" as it has already been removed from the car and it has an O2 bung welded in as well.

What are you looking to get? Zip is 11766 send pics if you can 516-356-6238 call anytime as well.

What's the dp have to do with ac?

Also, I have a 3" dp from cottons with the external gate and o2 welded in barely used if you'd like to work something out.
 
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What are you looking to get? Zip is 11766 send pics if you can 516-356-6238 call anytime as well.

What's the dp have to do with ac?

Also, I have a 3" dp from cottons with the external gate and o2 welded in barely used if you'd like to work something out.


I would look at working something out, but I already have the 3.5" DP. I will get some pics and pricing when I go back to my storage unit sometime between now and Saturday.
Could you send some pics of the 3" on the engine?

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I would look at working something out, but I already have the 3.5" DP. I will get some pics and pricing when I go back to my storage unit sometime between now and Saturday.
Could you send some pics of the 3" on the engine?

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I dont have any on the car but here is the link to the for sale section where i have it listed. Scroll to the bottom for the latest pics. Ide like $300 out of it + shipping. Obviously if we work out a trade shipping would be a wash. Thanks! Tyler

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/3-cottons-down-pipe-external-gate.408003/
 
If anyone is interested in custom fabbing their own 5" downpipe, I got the adapter that I took the V-band flange from for sale. Would need another 5" V-band flange welded to it. Here are some pics of both sides of it.




You would just need to buy a V-band clamp kit like the one pictured below. Weld one end of the V-band flange to the adapter, the other end to your downpipe your building and Bobs your uncle.
 
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