m233roller
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2002
- Messages
- 3,539
Do any of you guys run this brace? Any feedback from those who do ?
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike
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SignUp Now!Get the heavy duty one other one bendsDo any of you guys run this brace? Any feedback from those who do ?
Thanks Mike
I’ve ran all the combinations.
Stock mounts
Stock mounts with torque strap
H&R Mounts on both sides
H&R mount on driver side only
Stock mounts with RJC brace
My car being a TTop car vibrates the tops way too much with the H&R mounts. The vibration noise at idle was unbearable.
My favorite combination for my car is fresh stock mounts with the Heavy Duty RJC brace with about 1/4” of preload. It works as advertised.
Hey man, How you doing. I'm installing one in my car, with great difficulty. I had to notch the bottom of the brace to clear brake line. Also had to put spacers at the mounting points , to correct positioning. In regard to installation. I was thinking of what you said about "preload." Was this accomplished by running the motor while underneath tightening snubber? Take care...P.S. I do have new "stock" motor mounts now.
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guys should really pay attention to this post if they want to go fastI like the stock mounts and brace. The transmission is what twists the block during acceleration. It does this at the back of the engine. If you stop the block from twisting at the front of the engine with a strap or rigid engine mounts,you are applying a force to the block that it similar to wringing out a wash cloth. I want to stop the rotation at the back of the block where the force is being applied to the block. Ideally,I would like a brace on both sides and stock mounts and never use a stiff trans mount.
I like the stock mounts and brace. The transmission is what twists the block during acceleration. It does this at the back of the engine. If you stop the block from twisting at the front of the engine with a strap or rigid engine mounts,you are applying a force to the block that it similar to wringing out a wash cloth. I want to stop the rotation at the back of the block where the force is being applied to the block. Ideally,I would like a brace on both sides and stock mounts and never use a stiff trans mount.
I’ve ran all the combinations.
Stock mounts
Stock mounts with torque strap
H&R Mounts on both sides
H&R mount on driver side only
Stock mounts with RJC brace
My car being a TTop car vibrates the tops way too much with the H&R mounts. The vibration noise at idle was unbearable.
My favorite combination for my car is fresh stock mounts with the Heavy Duty RJC brace with about 1/4” of preload. It works as advertised.
How do you Preload?
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Now you reminded me of an old aircraft engine where the crank and pistons don't rotate. The block rotates.When you look at it from that angle, it's the block itself that's doing the twisting. It's trying to spin the crankshaft, and the car is trying to hold it still. With such a strong load on the crank, the block tries to 'orbit' it.
The block doesn't get twisted, it's trying to flip it self over since the rear diff (via inertia as ''energy'') is trying to hold the crankshaft stationary.
Tying the block/trans housing to the chassis is what forces the crank/trans guts/drive shaft/pinion/axles/wheels to turn (relative to the chassis). None of those components know where or how they're restrained.