Very nice pics,,, thats interesting mines are a little shorter than yours however im installing mine right now. it looks as if mine will work & will actually sit lower under the valve cover and still shouldnt hit went it pivots. and it will also have full motion swing i'll rotate engine to see...i'll finish sometime this evening or in the morning & if theres a problem which i dont think there will be i'll post back.
i actually like them sitttin a hair lower because when mine broke the first time on the passenger side it bumped up my valve cover and oil went all on my down pipe, engine block starter etc. smokin all the way home luckily i was only 4 miles away from home.
To install Heres scorpions web site for installation instructions for adjusting valves on solid lifter or roller cams:
The most improtant thing to know is adjust one cylinder at a time starting at #1 and work your way around you must rotate engine direction. When the Exhaust valve starts to open on #1 cylinder adjust intake valve when the intake valve open & starts to close adjust #1 Exhaust valve.
Example: When the exhaust valve just starts to open on # 1 Cylinder we will adjust # 1 intake
valve by loosening polylock slightly while spinning pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker
arm spin polylock down until you feel lash go away and now feel the pushrod snug up a little
while your spinning it, this is known as 0 lash now place offset 5/8 box wrench on polylock
facing exhaust side of head at 6:00 position turn wrench ¾ of a turn will put the wrench at
3:00 position Now use T handle Allen wrench and screw the set screw down against the top
of stud firmly then bump wrench slightly tighter to lock set screw DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
this will split polylock you don’t need much to lock set screw to stud after adjusting put a
magic marker slash across top of rocker to tell you it has been done, now rotate engine until
intake valve opens and just starts to close and repeat adjustment on #1 exhaust valve (note
one Cylinder at a time). Repeat one cylinder at a time until complete engine is finished.
Now it is time to double check starting at #1 cylinder when exhaust starts to open check
intake. New Hydraulic lifters won’t be pumped up yet so you should be able to spin pushrod
with some resistance. Think of a Hydraulic lifter as a shock absorber. And you want to be in
the middle of it, you will be able to push the lifter plunger to the bottom of the lifter until you
have oil pressure and then it become solid, you should put a 2nd mark on top of rocker so you
know it has been double checked all rockers that are 100 % finished being adjusted you
should have a magic marker X on them one mark for 1st adjustment 2nd mark for final check.
The stud on the champions are suppose to be 75 ft lbs. In a magazine i saw a white thread sealer being used. Im using just a dab of locktite blue. i pulled it off awhile ago with no problems from the previous install. i was adjusting my rockers because of the noise, and stumbled on this post and just went on & decided to change all to ARPs on the driver side . i 'll do the passenger later, my passenger side is as quiet as a flat tappet my drivers a little louder which is what im tryin to rectify now.
Heres the pic for part #ARP 134-7104..
ARP's on the left -----Champions replacement or what i think are (trick flows on the right).
On the bottom pic if you line each top up bolt to bolt the length is very close only like 2 or 3 threads difference.
I wonder if you go lower could some one just use the stock valve covers with a thicker vc gasket like the 1600s and get away with it?? hmmmmmmmmmm?
