Stock Header Stud Size(s) - GN1 Heads

[TIMINATOR]

P.S. If you have enough on the ball to think you might be a moron, you're not!
You don't think you're president, do you?
TIMINATOR

 

[MCH86GN]

P.S. If you have enough on the ball to think you might be a moron, you're not!
You don't think you're president, do you?
TIMINATOR

LMAO! Nope!

 

[earlbrown]

The holes in the head are 3/8-16. The factory fasteners are bastard threads, SAE on the head side, and metric on the nut side.


As far as the ''science'' on why stainless won't work, real life says otherwise. I'm still running the same 18-8 stainless bolts on my downpipe since 1998 with no issues, and my stainless headerbolts since I built my engine in the 2000's.

Anti-seize is your friend.

 

[MCH86GN]

The holes in the head are 3/8-16. The factory fasteners are bastard threads, SAE on the head side, and metric on the nut side.


As far as the ''science'' on why stainless won't work, real life says otherwise. I'm still running the same 18-8 stainless bolts on my downpipe since 1998 with no issues, and my stainless headerbolts since I built my engine in the 2000's.

Anti-seize is your friend.

Thanks Earl. Well the studs that I have or had were all 3/8" and I have a 3' peice of threaded rod coming from McMaster-Carr and I am going to make my own studs. Dave Roland originally made the studs when he rebuilt my engine, but as I may have mentioned I lost them, along with the washers and nuts. The threaded rod I purchased is hardened 316 stainless steel and the washers and nuts are A286 stainless steel.

 

[earlbrown]

I think what you described is the same thing I offer in my manifold bolt kits.

From your description, you might be OK. That's if you accounted for the shorter stud you need for the front lower cylinder bolt hole that needs a nut for the alternator reinforcement.

On the upside, 316 is rated for salt water, so if you operate your GN in the ocean, you're going to be good with corrosion resistance.

 

[MCH86GN]

I think what you described is the same thing I offer in my manifold bolt kits.

From your description, you might be OK. That's if you accounted for the shorter stud you need for the front lower cylinder bolt hole that needs a nut for the alternator reinforcement.

On the upside, 316 is rated for salt water, so if you operate your GN in the ocean, you're going to be good with corrosion resistance.

Probably should purchase your manifold kit, takes all the headache away. The threaded rod from McMaster-Carr is only $23 for the 3' piece. I purchased your upper and lower intake bolt kit back in 2016 and I started to purchase your oil and transmission pan bolt kit, but my buddy had enough pieces leftover where he had bought the bolts from McMaster-Carr for me to use. That's how I got on the 316 SS. Probably not necessary at all.

Thanks for your help.

 

[earlbrown]

Yeah, the pan kits aren't really anything special as they're mostly the same size. The only real thing about those is choosing the right OD washer at a good thickness to work with the pan rail type. The real trick is to make sure you get metric when you need metric and SAE when you need SAE. 8mm and 5/16 look a LOT alike and they can be forced in the wrong hole (giggigy) pretty easily.


Cutting the 3' piece can be a bitch, but for a one-off deal it won't be that bad. What I would recommend is as least a 4" angle grinder to part it off. Then chuck up the piece in a drill press and part it to size. Cut at an 'angle' to bevel the edge so you can start the stud and the nuts.

 

[chasmat2316]

ARP has a nice header stud kit. Some of the popular Buick vendors sell them

 

[MCH86GN]

ARP has a nice header stud kit. Some of the popular Buick vendors sell them

Well, I could never take the easy road. It probably cost more the way I am doing it.

 

[MCH86GN]

Yeah, the pan kits aren't really anything special as they're mostly the same size. The only real thing about those is choosing the right OD washer at a good thickness to work with the pan rail type. The real trick is to make sure you get metric when you need metric and SAE when you need SAE. 8mm and 5/16 look a LOT alike and they can be forced in the wrong hole (giggigy) pretty easily.


Cutting the 3' piece can be a bitch, but for a one-off deal it won't be that bad. What I would recommend is as least a 4" angle grinder to part it off. Then chuck up the piece in a drill press and part it to size. Cut at an 'angle' to bevel the edge so you can start the stud and the nuts.

I cut my first piece yesterday with a Dremel and an EZ506HP metal cutting wheel. Something tells me I might have to order a couple more of these cutting wheels, which sucks because they are $23 a pop, this is lowest price I have found.

 

[MCH86GN]

Yeah, the pan kits aren't really anything special as they're mostly the same size. The only real thing about those is choosing the right OD washer at a good thickness to work with the pan rail type. The real trick is to make sure you get metric when you need metric and SAE when you need SAE. 8mm and 5/16 look a LOT alike and they can be forced in the wrong hole (giggigy) pretty easily.


Cutting the 3' piece can be a bitch, but for a one-off deal it won't be that bad. What I would recommend is as least a 4" angle grinder to part it off. Then chuck up the piece in a drill press and part it to size. Cut at an 'angle' to bevel the edge so you can start the stud and the nuts.

I hope I have the correct size for the trans oil pan and the engine oil pan. If memory serves me correct for the oil pan I have 5/16-18 x 0.75" and the three fronts which are 1/4-20 x 0.75". For the transmission oil pan I have 8mm and I think the length is 20 or 25mm. I used the manuals to verify I had the correct size.

 

[earlbrown]

That's right. Trans is metric. Block is plain ole shitbox GM, so the pan rail is SAE.

 

[earlbrown]

I cut my first piece yesterday with a Dremel and an EZ506HP metal cutting wheel. Something tells me I might have to order a couple more of these cutting wheels, which sucks because they are $23 a pop, this is lowest price I have found.

Yeah. The stainless can be a bitch to cut. And it will get waaaaaaaaay worse if you rub on it and work harden it any.


Dremel cutoff wheels are really too small to cut them due to the small diameter of the wheel which makes it impossible to get a square cut. And it gets worse as the wheel erodes during the cut.

A 4" wheel is as small as i recommend for that operation.


With my kits, I just pay all the extra money for correct length studs. It's a lot more money, but i don't burn up cutting disks (and have to listen to all the noise it comes with. Bonus points for not breathing in vanadium and chromium dust.

 

[MCH86GN]

Yeah. The stainless can be a bitch to cut. And it will get waaaaaaaaay worse if you rub on it and work harden it any.


Dremel cutoff wheels are really too small to cut them due to the small diameter of the wheel which makes it impossible to get a square cut. And it gets worse as the wheel erodes during the cut.

A 4" wheel is as small as i recommend for that operation.


With my kits, I just pay all the extra money for correct length studs. It's a lot more money, but i don't burn up cutting disks (and have to listen to all the noise it comes with. Bonus points for not breathing in vanadium and chromium dust.

Like I said Earl, I love taking the hardway. I may take it down to my local machine shop and have them it to size for me. The problem is, I jacked up my phone and had to reset it and I no longer have the lengths that Dave Roland cut the originals to. I think he said for the header bolts the length is 2.75" and 1.5". At least if I f'up the threaded rod, I only paid $23 for it and $23 for the little cutting wheel for my Dremel.

I am going to checkout your set. I believe there are listed on EBay.

 

[earlbrown]

They are. I would verify the lengths you have, but I can't remember what they are. I do know they're odd, so you're probably right.