Roll cage please read its not that simple!!!

[hansongn]

hey guys i got an 87 gn, long story short, i want to stiffen up the car and ive seen for sale the fender braces,etc but i know that doesnt do a whole lot but its somethin! so i thought obviuosly the a 6 pt. cage and closin up any holes in the frame is the way to go but i dont want a cage in the cockpit. okay, so ive seen in the past cars with mini cagees in the trunk. you weld in a hoop right behind the rear seat in the trunk, weld the hoop to the frame. weld in a horizontal brace in the hoop, like a normal cage and then weld in two down tubes to the frame toward the back of the car. any input on if u guys think this will help or any better ideas thanks fellas your feedback is much appreciated!

 

[coach]

hey guys i got an 87 gn, long story short, i want to stiffen up the car and ive seen for sale the fender braces,etc but i know that doesnt do a whole lot but its somethin! so i thought obviuosly the a 6 pt. cage and closin up any holes in the frame is the way to go but i dont want a cage in the cockpit. okay, so ive seen in the past cars with mini cagees in the trunk. you weld in a hoop right behind the rear seat in the trunk, weld the hoop to the frame. weld in a horizontal brace in the hoop, like a normal cage and then weld in two down tubes to the frame toward the back of the car. any input on if u guys think this will help or any better ideas thanks fellas your feedback is much appreciated!

You are wrong about how much certain braces help. I have a T-top car and they helped a ton. I use my trans brake all the time and almost daily drive it thru summer. The amount of sqeeks and rattles that stopped is amazing. Start with the GNX body bushings and the other missing bushings. Install the the GNX rear seat brace and WELD it in, dont waste time with the bolts. If you were going to weld in a cage you wont care. Add the front connecting braces from the frame horns to under the oil pan crossmember and then the front frame connecting brace. You will be amazed. I can put a jack behind my driver or passenger front tire and lift 3 wheels off the garage floor and before the car would twist enough that it would never do this. The HR sway bar finishes it all off , but unless you are racing it alot, you may not want to spend the $$$.

:biggrin:

 

[Just a Six??]

I can put a jack behind my driver or passenger front tire and lift 3 wheels off the garage floor and before the car would twist enough that it would never do this.

I can do that as well with the mods mentioned. Almost Scary when you see it!

 

[hansongn]

hey thanks for the replys, and if u say it works i beleive i read your info so whatcha think with other bushings i wqas gonna do the body bushings but what other bushings should i do. i was thinkin front control arm and rearend energy suspension poly bushings and do u think i should not do the roll cage idea? i just know when u can tye the frame together with any steel it makes the car so stiff thanks again guys!!

 

[Pronto]

Depends on your goals. If you want to run faster than 11.5 you need a roll bar. Some places will let you run but IMHO at that speed you need one for safety's sake. Doing all the bushings and braces is very important to making the car tighter. Well worth the time and money.

 

[hansongn]

is the gnx body bushings going to make a huge difference i checked the factory body bushings and there in great shape

 

[coach]

Depends on your goals. If you want to run faster than 11.5 you need a roll bar. Some places will let you run but IMHO at that speed you need one for safety's sake. Doing all the bushings and braces is very important to making the car tighter. Well worth the time and money.

Pronto is correct. For racing you will need a cage to go 11.50 or faster even though most tracks are pretty forgiving to about 11 flat. For street driving , just to get rid of the dreaded squeaks and rattles, the above mentioned mods are very easy and not to expensive. The GNX bushings go directly over the rear end on top of the bends in the frame. For the few dollars they cost, it was worth it in my case. T-top cars are weak and I did everything I could. I really got my best $$$ out of the GNX welded in seat brace and the HR sway bar. I did my entire chassis first before throwing a bunch of horsepower to it because if you cant put it to the ground, why spend $$$ to burn up tires??? A GN will do that with just ALKY and a K&N.
Dont let the thin sheetmetal GNX brace fool you when you get it out of the box. It really works. My buddy was floored how much tighter the car got and he laughed when I showed him the brace.

:biggrin: